Rosheim and Ottrott are small, but significant wine villages. Both these communes lie in the Bas Rhin department, in the Molsheim canton, in the northern part of Alsace.
Northern Alsace has a great viticultural and vinicultural tradition. Six main white varietals grow throughout Alsace: Riesling, Silvaner, Gewuerztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and the only red varietal: Pinot Noir.
Alsatian Pinot Noir wines tend to be lighter, but very fruit-forward Pinot Noir wines. They are, of course, different from Burgundian Pinot Noir wines, from which tradition they derive. Early in the 12th century monks from Burgundy headed into Alsace, bringing vine plantings with them.
The Alsatians call their sparkling wines Cremant. But these were not the only bubbles (“bulles”) that I found along this “Bulles et Bugatti” cycling itinerary. There were wineries and taverns offering the Cremant of Alsace, of course. But equally enjoyable were the bubbling creeks along much of the way, from the Dachsteinerbach, the Bruche and its canal, the Mossig, Frankenbach and Kehlbach, finally, the Stillbach, (it wasn’t), a melodious stream bubbling its way to the Bruche.
Confluence: Stillbach, Muehlbach and the Bruche
The Bruche empties into the Ill, a tributary to the Rhine, by Strasbourg. Starting in the Vosges mountains, it ultimately flows by the vineyards in the foothills of the Vosges, before entering the flat fields surrounding Strasbourg. This geography lesson just to let you know that the itinerary did have some hills, but also some very flat stretches. Especially memorable for its peaceful, rural aspect was the section riding along the Bruche Canal, a paved and beautifully maintained bike path. It is even possible to follow this trail all the way to the heart of Strasbourg!
Along the Bruche Canal
But this itinerary also included the hills and dales in the heart of the Bas Rhin vineyards. Departing Molsheim, and passing Dachstein, a medieval walled and effectively moated village, the ride proceeds mostly on a flat bike path, which is a delight, to the canal. The hills begin where the canal ends, at Soulz-les Bains.
Dachstein: Manmade Walls, Natural Moat
As the name implies, there is a spa in Soulz, a small village with a wonderful bakery, and Lucien Doriath’s excellent restaurant dedicated to foie gras. (Don’t worry, you can work it all off while on the numerous hiking and cycling trails passing through the village.) In addition to the Bruche and its canal, the Mossig also runs through this area. In fact, this whole itinerary sits in a watershed, and water is impossible to avoid.
Sunlit Vineyards by Soulz-les-Bains
From Soulz, the itinerary climbs. As it does, vineyards replace fields, and the wine village of Bergbieten with its Grand Cru vineyard appears. Balbronn, another well-known wine village, is picturesquely surrounded by vineyards. Between there and Flexbourg, the higher elevations of the Vosges mountains come into view providing magnificent photo opportunities.
Beyond the Vines: Fields and Vosges
Once out of the hills, more rivers and streams appear. A marvelous confluence of several of these appear on the approach to Dinsheim sur Bruche. I cycled along the Stillbach, to where it joins the Bruche, then over the Muhlbach to cross the Bruche once again just before re-entering Molsheim. On the outskirts is the Bugatti factory. Bugatti was founded in Molsheim, and it still produces fantastic cars of distinction there. I must confess though, I saw few cars, much less Bugatti ones (the least expensive model starts at over two million dollars), while cycling, making this a relatively car free itinerary overall.
Molsheim: Bugatti Plant
Molsheim is a small town, but the largest in this area. It is known to the wine world as the site of the Grand Cru Bruderthal, a “production” site as much esteemed locally as the Bugatti plant. The town itself boasts a couple of charming squares, fronted by historic and attractive half-timbered buildings. It is a nice place to base, if spending some time in the area. It has several restaurants serving good food and local wines, as well as a couple of wineries. Fortunately, all food and wine offerings, even the Cremant d’Alsace wines, cost only miniscule fractions of the cost of a Bugatti, hence may be happily enjoyed by all!
The Alsatian wine region is famous throughout France, and the world. It is a great place to try excellent white wines, at very reasonable prices. In addition to the still wines made from the six main white varietals grown in Alsace – Riesling, Sylvaner, Gewuerztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris – sparkling wines are produced here.
Crémant is the name for the Alsatian sparkling wine made using the Champagne method. But unlike most Champagnes, Alsatian winemakers traditionally use Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Riesling to produce the classic Alsatian crémant. (Riesling brings a nice touch of acidity, as well as fruitiness to the blend, and is a unique addition to French sparkling wines.)
Vintners here also make good use of some of the other appellation Alsatian varietals. Some cremants use Pinot Blanc exclusively. The Rose cremants are made with exclusively of Pinot Noir (the only red appellation varietal grown in Alsace). Additionally, for the specific Appellation Crémant d’Alsace, Auxerrois and Chardonnay grapes may be used.
The appellation Crémant d’Alsace dates to 1976, and currently represents almost a quarter of Alsace’s total wine production. While the most well-known Alsatian crémant producer is Wolfberger, located in the Haut Rhin department, there are some Bas Rhin producers who consistently produce excellent sparkling wine as well. In the Bas Rhin, the cooperative winery Cave du Roi Dagobert, produces a nice line of Crémant. (Their winery (in Traenheim, less than ten kilometers/six miles from Molsheim) offered a wonderful tasting of their Crémant line, but unfortunately, I lost my tasting notes. Suffice it to say, they were all delicious and very reasonably priced.)
What I Tasted
Crémant, Dagobert Prestige, Demi-Sec, Appellation Crémant d’ Alsace Controlee, Cave du Roi Dagobert (Traenheim): A semi-dry white sparkling wine with fine, swirling, persistent bubbles and light gold color; floral and yeast nose, with floral and toast flavors; very smooth with mild acidity.
Crémant, Chardonnay, Brut, Appellation Crémant d’Alsace Controlee, Domaine Robert Klingenfus (Molsheim): A dry white wine with very fine bubbles, and medium gold color; floral and slight yeast nose, with floral and bread flavors, medium acidity.
2018 Cuvee d’Antoine, Domaine Robert Klingenfus: A dry white wine cuvee (mostly Pinot Gris, and a bit of Riesling), with medium minus gold color; a Riesling nose, with pear and floral flavors, high minus acidity.
2018 Pinot Gris, Signature, Appellation Alsace Controlee. Domaine Robert Klingenfus (Molsheim): A dry white wine with medium plus reddish gold color; a rich floral and spicy nose, with flavors of ripe peaches, roses, and vanilla and nutmeg spice; medium acidity, very smooth finish
2015 Gewürztraminer Glintzberg, Vendanges Tardives, Domaine Anstotz et Fils (Balbronn): A dry white wine with dark gold color; rich aromatic nose, with powerful lychee and concentrated exotic fruits flavors; mild acidity. (201908)
2015 Riesling, Westerweingarten, AOC Alsace, Domaine Anstotz et Fils (Balbronn): A dry white wine with medium plus gold color; a mineral nose, and peach and spice flavors, with a hint of turpentine; medium plus acidity.
2011 Riesling, Altenberg de Bergbieten, Grand Cru, Appellation Alsace Controlee, Domaine Roland Schmitt: A dry white wine with medium gold color; intense nose of spice and white fruit; citrus, floral and spice flavors; a full-bodied wine with medium acidity. (Tasted in 2014)
Trail Type: A mid-distance circuit bicycle itinerary; well-maintained surfaces, much of it paved, however no trail specific marking throughout the itinerary.
Length:
Total – 33 kilometers/ 20.5 miles
Convenient to: Molsheim, Strasbourg, Bas Rhin, Alsace, France
Marking: None specific to the itinerary. Some sections do have the typical green and white cyclist markings for a bicycle path to serve as a guide.
Trail Description: A well thought out itinerary through mostly rural landscapes with a variety of flat and hilly sections, vineyard, field and urban terrain, some on minimally trafficked road sectors, and some on fairly long stretches of vehicle-free bicycle path or dedicated bicycle lane.
Trailhead: Molsheim, Rue de Strasbourg, Porte des Forgerons
Parking:
Molsheim: R de la Commanderie x R Ernest Friedrich (closest to trailhead); Rue des Sports, by the open-air pool
Dorlisheim: Chemin des Moissons, Rue Mercure, north and south, in a mall area
Mutzig: Place de la Gare, Rue du Dr Schweitzer,
Balbronn: R du Fronhof (at the upper/higher end)
Public Transportation Options:
Rail: Frequent regional trains (TER) connect Strasbourg and Molsheim
Bus: Numbers 234 and 236 connect Molsheim with surrounding villages
Molsheim: R. de Strasbourg x Avenue de la Gare, R. Charles Mistler, past Camping Municipal, over Bruche, along D93/D30; Dachstein: D30; Egerstein: Along Canal de la Bruche to Wolxheim; Wolxheim : R de Molsheim; Avolsheim: cycle path to Grotte d’Avolsheim, R. du Dompeter, R. de la Gare, Impasse de la Roseliere, cycle path; Soultz les Bains: R. de Molsheim/D422, D275: Dangolsheim: D275/Rte du Vin (past the Lavoir, or laundry basin); Bergbieten: D275/Rue des Vosges; Balbronn: D275/R. du Château, R. de la Foret, Rte de Flexbourg; Flexbourg: Rte de Flexbourg-R. des Acacias, R. de la Paix, R. des Seigneurs/D118; Still: D118/Rte de Flexbourg, Grande Rue; Dinsheim: D118, D392/ R. du General De Gaulle, past the Chapel of St Wendelin; Mutzig: Blvd Clemenceau; cross the Bruche, still on D392, past the Gare de Mutzig, Rte de Strasbourg; Faubourg des Vosges; Dorlisheim: Grand Rue, Avenue de la Gare/D392; Molsheim: D392; Altdorf: Chemin de la Blieth, R. des Romains, R. des Pres, R. Principale; Molsheim: R. Jean Mermoz, cycle path paralleling Rte Ecospace, D2422/R. de la Commanderie, past the Gare de Molsheim
Representative Trail Photos:
Dedicated Bike Path Along a Road
Representative Segment: Road Riding
Sample: Section of Unpaved Surface
Restrooms:
Molsheim: Passage de la Post x Avenue de la Gare, about 50 meters west of the chapel in the parking lot by the old town gate “Tour des Forgerons”
Attractions on or near Trail:
Molsheim: Musee de la Chartreuse, focuses on millennia of history and traditions of the Bruche Valley, while another section covers the history of Bugatti (the other half of the name of this route), its cars and its connection to Molsheim.
Tasting along the Trail:
Wolxheim, Avolsheim, Soulz-les-Bains, Balbronn and Bergbieten are well-known wine villages with several wineries in each. Additionally, Molsheim is the largest town in the area, with several taverns and restaurants serving local wines.
Alternative Options:
Hiking: The circuit hike called Trotele, one of the Circuits of Bacchus, is a 13.6 kilometers hike through several of the same villages. See the Nutshell here.
Biking: The long distance Veloroute du Vignoble d’Alsace begins about 15 miles north in Marlenheim, and passes through Soulz-les-Bains, Molsheim and Dorlisheim, then proceeds south through other villages and towns in the Bas Rhin department. See the Nutshell here.
This is a post about a long-distance cycling itinerary. But I was not cycling it. The most famous cycle route in France, the Tour de France, has an itinerary that changes every year. Fortuitously, in a perfect storm of time and place, I was able to watch it as it passed.
Fortunately too, there was a short vineyard hike I could do in the area that day. It began in the center of Rosheim, an Alsatian town in the department of Bas Rhin, and a town where the Tour was scheduled to pass through in July 2019. Rosheim is a delightful small town, with a lot of town spirit as I would find out. The trail leading out of town passed several well-maintained buildings of great historic value. In fact, the trail through town followed along the car route Route Romane d’Alsace, or Romanesque Alsace Route, demonstrating that this town has had a long and illustrious past, worth a detour in any visit to lower Alsace.
Northern Alsace has a great viticultural and vinicultural tradition. Six main white varietals grow throughout Alsace: Riesling, Silvaner, Gewuerztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and the only red varietal: Pinot Noir.
While the reds might be less common, and lighter-bodied than Pinot Noir wines from other French appellations, the whites are often full-bodied expressions of the grape and terroir. Alsatian wine is quite good, and demand for it is rising.
In a brilliant tour de force, the regional authorities in the department of Bas Rhin, Alsace, have done much to promote wine tourism in this often-overlooked corner of the Alsatian Wine Route. In addition to an up-to-date wine cooperative (and shop with liberal hours), featuring some of its local Grand Cru wines, they have developed a series of wine-themed hiking circuits. There are four circuits, ranging from 17 kilometers to 13.6 kilometers. These circuits all share at least one section. To hike the outside edge of them all results in a hike of 35 kilometers. My kind of tourism. So I selected the circuit that went closest to the cooperative: the Loejele Circuit.
As this is a circuit, it is possible to begin anywhere along it, but I chose Wangen because it was closest to the highway. It is a small village, but one with its medieval walls still partially intact. In fact, my start took me out one of the gates, past the cemetery and into the vineyards in rapid succession.
