Tag Archives: Austria

Wine Notes: Kremstal

 

What I Learned:

Kremstal (Krems Valley), in Krems, Austria,  along with its associated village of Stein, and a narrow band of area on the opposite side of the Danube, form a wine district known as Kremstal. This district lies on both sides of the Danube River and its tributary, the Krems River. Vineyards lie above the communities on high slopes overlooking the communities and the rivers. Loess and sedementary soils predominate in this region.

Noted Ried (named vineyards) in Stein are: (from up to down river) Steiner Pfaffenberg and Hund; with other esteemed vineyards being: Pitschental, Altenburg, Grillenparz, Danzern, and Schreck.

Wine-making in the Krems region dates back about 2000 years. As Christianity moved east, monastic organizations revitalized the tradition. The oldest vintner association in Europe, the Hauerinnung Krems-Stein, has been here since 1442. In 1938 it founded Winzer Krems, a name that endures today. Its cooperative winery, Sandgrube 13, is located at the same address in Krems, and worth a visit.

Like the neighboring Wachau wine region, the Gruener Veltliner is the single-most cultivated grape, accounting for half the annual production. While grown elsewhere, this grape, and the white wine it produces, is Austria’s claim to fame in the wine world. Riesling is the second most cultivated grape. White varietals predominate here, and other white varieties include, Rivaner known elsewhere as Mueller-Thurgau), Muskatteller, Neuburger, and Pinot Blanc and Gris. Grown to a lesser extent, the red varietals include Sankt Laurent and Zweigelt.

 

What I tasted:

2016 Rivaner, Winzerbraut, Qualitaetswein, Halbtrocken, Winzer Krems (Niederoesterreich): An off-dry white wine with medium minus gold color; a nose of green apple and ripe white peach, toasted nuts, peach and slight spice flavors; medium acidity, nicely balanced overall.

2015 Sauvignon Blanc, Kellermeister Privat, Niederoesterreich, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Winzer Krems: A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; light boxwood, gooseberry nose, with boxwood and citrus flavors, with a hint of spice; medium plus acidity.

2015 Gruener Veltliner, Frauengrund, Kremstal DAC, Josef Dockner: A dry white wine with light gold color; a floral and spicy nose, both sweet and sharp; floral, honey, tangy spice, vanilla and grilled peach flavors; mild acidity.

2014 Riesling, Ried Grillenparz, Erste Lage, Kremstal DAC Reserve, Weingut Stadt Krems: A dry white wine with light gold color; a sweet grape nose, and tropical fruits, turpentine, and spicy, mustard-like flavors, with a hint of minerality; medium acidity with a smooth finish.

2013 Gruener Veltliner Steinberg, DAC, Weingut Hutter: A dry white wine with a dark gold color; floral and fruity notes with a hint of grapefruit, very mild acidity.

2013 Riesling, Stein Terrassen, Weingut Hutter: A dry white wine with light gold color; floral notes with a slight hint of grapefruit; medium acidity.

 

 

Wein Wandern Stein: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Wein Wandern Stein (Unofficial name)

Trail Type: Short distance hiking circuit; almost exclusively paved, well maintained, but the route itself is not exclusively marked.

Length: Approximately 6 kilometers/3.7 miles

Convenient to: Krems an der Donau, Austria

Marking: No trail-specific marking, although throughout this itinerary there are markings for other trails (to include the Welterbesteig signs, as shown below), and signposts (see the photo below) indicating named places and the “Welterbesteig Wachau” trail.

Trail Description:

An easy circuit through the village of Stein (part of Krems), and through the vineyards above the village, returning along the Danube. It focuses both on the village’s long-established viticultural traditions, and the vineyards that made it all possible.

Trailhead:

Stein an der Donau: Steinerkellergasse x Doktor-Karl-Dorrek-Strasse

Parking:

Krems/Stein:

Along Steiner Donaulaende, there are many parking spots, but on weekdays and summers, all likely will be taken; On Steiner Donaulaende, by Gottweigerhofgasse, a small parking lot.

Parking Garages on Yachthafenstr and Steiner Landstr x Anibas Promenade

Stein/Foerthof: Along Route 3/Donau Bundestrasse, there are two or three small, unimproved parking areas along the Danube.

Public Transportation Options:

Bus: Post bus serves Stein an der Donau. Check www.postbus.at

Rail:

OBB services Krems, connecting with nearby towns, and Vienna

Wachaubahn provides seasonal service upriver from Krems to Grimsing, to include Stein, Loiben (Unter and Ober-), Duernstein, Weissenkirchen in der Donau, Spitz an der Donau and Willendorf

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Stein: Doktor-Karl-Dorrek-Str x Steinerkellergasse, Steinspreng (at signs for Tullner and Mariazellerweg Trails), Guetersweg Schreckberg, circle counterclockwise on the Schreckberg lanes, return to Steinspreng; Right on Steiner Kellergasse, over train tracks by tunnel; Reisperbachtalstr, stairs (with W), on an path to an unnamed, paved agricultural lane, first passing the ruins of Altenburg castle, then the Altenburg Weinbergkreuz (a crucifix of vine stocks), Pfaffenbergweg-Foerthofstr-Steiner Donaulaende-Steinerlandstr-Reisperbachtalstr-Hintere Fahrstr-Frauenberg, stairs (at the St Nikolaus church) down to Steiner Landstr

Representative Trail Photos:

Trail Surface in Vineyards

 

Restrooms:

None observed

Attractions on or near Trail:

Lining the Steiner Kellergasse are many nicely maintained wine cellars, some of which are still in use as such!

Tasting along the Trail:

There are several “Heuriger” (seasonal wine taverns), along the trail, and numerous taverns, bars and restaurants in town.

Alternative Options:

Walking: The Welterbesteig Wachau trail begins in Krems proper, and continues upriver to Melk (the famous abbey) on the high route along the Danube and sometimes inland through the vineyards and villages along the way. From Melk, it continues downriver back to Krems for a total of 180 kilometers. See the Nutshell here.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.krems.info/de/home/

Trail specific: None

Comments:

I adapted this circuit from one suggested by a local hiker, hence no definitive markings, or references to it online or in town literature. Therefore, there is no trail specific signage, although this itinerary does follow a section of the Welterbesteig Wachau trail leading from Resiperbachtal Strasse to Pfaffenbergweg, and then the two itineraries diverge at Foerthof

To extend the hike slightly, follow the Welterbesteig Wachau upriver along the Pfaffenbergweg, to the border between the Kremstal and Wachau appellations. To close the circuit, head downhill to the hamlet of Rothenhof and follow along footpath along the river paralleling the main road (B3) back to Foerthofstrasse. Continue the itinerary above from Fuerthof.

 

Water to Wine

 

From water to wine, and wine-gardens, the literal translation of Weingarten, German for “vineyard.” That was both the theme and the reality of this circuit hike by Sankt Stefan ob Stainz. It was here in Styria, Steiermark, in German, that I began my exploration of the wines from this southeastern corner of Austria.

Vineyard near St Stefan ob Stainz

Continue reading Water to Wine

Wine Notes: Austria’s Steiermark

 

What I Learned

The Steiermark is a wine region in the southeast corner of Austria. It is called Styria in English. The Steiermark lies just north of the Slovenian Alps, and east of the Austrian ones. Within this political and wine entity, there are three wine sub-regions.

-The easternmost, the Suedoststeiermark lies closest to Hungary, from where gets some of its climatic influences. Its topography is moderately hilly in most places, and as the name for its Vulkanland district implies,  is influenced by remains of ancient volcanos.

-The southernmost, is the Suedsteiermark, which shares a long border, as well as a tradition of viticulture, with Slovenia.

-Then there is the Weststeiermark. It is known by Austrian wine-lovers, and promoted by the local tourism industry, as Schilcher-land, home to a rose wine of the same name.

Continue reading Wine Notes: Austria’s Steiermark

Zachgraben und Weingaerten: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Zachgraben und Weingaerten (Zach Creek and Vineyards)

Trail Type: A mid-distance circuit trail; some sections maintained, others rougher, with varying surfaces, from paved to mud. This circuit is not marked (See comment)

Length:

Total – 10.1 kilometers/6 miles

Convenient to: Graz, Austria

Marking:

None (See comment!)

Continue reading Zachgraben und Weingaerten: Trail in a Nutshell

The Vineyards of Krems

 

The Danube is one of the world’s most inspirational rivers- It has inspired music, Strauss’ Blue Danube Waltz; and movies, to include a different color – The Red Danube; and many books, poems, and odes. It has also inspired a trail that covers two wine regions of Austria – The World Heritage Trail Wachau (Welterbesteig Wachau).

The beauty of this region inspired me to try the trail. To hike the entire 180 kilometers/110 miles, unfortunately required more time than I had, so I settled for covering the trail’s passage through the Kremstal wine region, in and around the town of Krems. This region is one of Austria’s smaller wine regions. It centers narrowly around the town of Krems on the Danube, and the small Krems river valley extending off the Danube. By hiking the first six kilometers of this trail, I would cover part of the Kremstal wine district.

Welterbesteig Sign

Continue reading The Vineyards of Krems

Wine Notes: Kremstal

 

What I Learned:

Kremstal (Krems Valley), Krems, along with its associated village of Stein, and the area on the opposite side of the Danube, form a wine district known as Kremstal. This district lies on both sides of the Danube River and its tributary, the Krems River. Vineyards lie above the communities on high slopes overlooking the communities and the river. Loess soils predominate in this region.

Noted Ried (named vineyards) in Stein are: Steiner Pfaffenberg and Hund; with other esteemed vineyards being: Altenburg, Grillenparz, Pitschental, Danzern, Geroldberg and Schreck. In Krems, the Wachtberg and Koegl are both well-known Ried.

Continue reading Wine Notes: Kremstal

Welterbesteig Wachau: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Welterbesteig (Section Krems to Stein am Donau/Foerthof)

Trail Type: Long distance hiking trail; varied surfaces (tarmac to grass), mostly maintained, and fairly well-marked.

Length:

Total: (Krems to Melk) 180 km

First Stage (Krems -Duernstein): 12.5 km

My Stage: (Krems to Stein/ Foerthof (Pfaffenbergweg) – circa 6 km

Marking: White circle with a “W” and a stylized river, or yellow rectangle with “Welterbesteig” in black letters

Signage: Welterbesteig

Continue reading Welterbesteig Wachau: Trail in a Nutshell