Bad Gams is an Austrian spa town, quaint, quiet, thoroughly devoted to relaxation. What better way to relax than an early morning hike, (provisioned with mineral waters), some time at a spa, followed by a sampling of the local, but widely known, Rosé: Schilcher?
In fact, the trail I followed early one June morning was entitled the Schilcherkellerweg. A mouthful for so early in the morning, but broken down it translates as Schilcher Cellar Trail. It was an easy-going (figuratively and literally speaking) hike that took in the best of what this area has to offer: vineyards and spa waters.
It begins by the Trinkhalle, a uniquely German word referring to the site where the cure waters are pumped. In this case, all three springs had their fountains here, open for tasting. After a sampling, I left the hall, and continued along a stream, the Gamsbach. This area is a natural watershed. The Wildbach is another stream nearby. It is important as the grape that makes Schilcher wine is the Blauer Wildbacher. Experts consider the village of Wildbach, situated on the eponymous stream, the birthplace of this grape.
Steep hills line the valleys formed by the streams. The valleys themselves are curving, and not very wide. Most of the itinerary passes along ridgelines, crossing the valleys and streams, and ascending to another ridgeline. This makes for nice views, and provides opportunities to pass by vineyards, ranged along the sun-facing slopes.
The first ridgeline on the itinerary passed through the hamlet of Gersdorf. The trail leaves this ridgeline by crossing through a broad meadow. At the bottom of the hill, the trail leads to Niedergams. This flat valley segment is brief. Then a steeper climb begins. I eventually came to the intersection of Schilcherweg, appropriately named given the wine produced here, and Wildbachberg, the road to the village of the same name. Half a kilometer later, the Deutsch-Maier winery came into view. With its colorful sign, it was a welcome sight. Sadly, it was closed that day. I would pass others further along the trail, but that one really sticks in my mind, as much for the color and artistic embellishments, as for the views.
Taking a path through the woods, the trail crosses the little Furthnerbergbach, yet another stream in the area. Another climb brings hikers to the Gamserwinzerstube, a wine tavern seemingly designed for the hiking public. (Except when I was there!) Then, a downhill stretch begins, which ultimately leads back to the Trinkhalle, for your choice of mineral waters.
While I can’t say whether I liked the waters of the Aktivquelle, or Michelquelle or Gudrunquelle best, I do know that I enjoyed the Kneipp/Trettbad, a small, knee-deep pool filled with cool, running water in which to soak weary feet. Set in a peaceful garden next to the hall, it was one of the most relaxing spots I had visited that day, and better for me, I suspect, than a chilled Schilcher wine. But it would be heresy to say that aloud in this charming corner of Austria known to wine lovers as Schilcherland!
