Increasingly, wine regions, especially those growing iconic grape varietals, sponsor varietal wine walking trails. Riesling is an especially important varietal in the Rhine River Valley. When I heard of one such trail in the wine region of Baden, I decided to visit.
The Riesling Weg (Trail) is located in the village of Eisental. In this part of the Baden wine region, the Ortenau, Riesling is the single-most cultivated varietal. Riesling can be a challenge to grow, given the lack of sunshine some years, and the steep slopes required to ensure maximal sun exposure when there is any. However, this Riesling trail was not challenging, and is easy enough for the whole family to enjoy.
First, there was the village. Small, compact, and nestled in a hollow, it was an oasis of tranquility. The old nucleus of the village, set around the church and town hall (Rathaus), was untouched by tourism – So laid back that it has only one eatery in the center.
Vineyards lie all around the village. The trail quickly led to them, after a short climb. Most of this trail passed through these vineyards, circling north, east, south and west around Eisental, and it followed along, or just below, the ridgelines much of the time. This ensured that there would be plenty of vistas to enjoy, and remark on.
Nearby, to the east, was the rugged and wild beauty of the Black Forest. Snow still covered the slopes of the highest mountains in early March.
In the distance, to the west, the Vosges mountains seemingly rose up dramatically from the valley. In between, the broad expanse of river valley was dotted with little villages, punctuated by steeples. However, the large city of Strasbourg, distinctively marked by its one, massive cathedral tower, also stood out quite visibly.
The distant panorama was unmarred by trees, which means relentless sun on a clear summer day. But in the winter, this trail is a godsend. The sun melts any ice on the trail, and keeps the chill in the air at bay. Early March was an ideal time to follow this trail.
Another bonus: this trail passes by the Affentaler Winzer, the cooperative winery for this area. With its liberal opening hours, wine enthusiasts can easily visit, and find time to enjoy its wines, or even tour the facility, which is followed by a wine tasting. In any event, this trail was a pleasant discovery, and provided a great and easy way to explore this quiet corner of the Ortenau in Baden, and its wines.