Online research can produce some great finds, and this trail was one of them. Searching for a day hike in the Wuerzburg area: something around 15-25 kilometers, wine-themed, and through well-known, scenic territory, turned up nothing for me. A major disappointment because Wuerzburg is one of my favorite cities, with its architectural gems, unparalleled setting on the river, and a well-established wine culture, that naturally attracts good food. So I turned my queries to the other side of the Maindreieck, to the “wine island” and Volkach area.
My hits included the Panoramaweg. Not a title implying a wine-themed trail, but that was exactly what it was: a trail through several of the more famous vineyards in the Volkach area, wine-tasting opportunities, and a wine learning trail along the way. And, as advertised: this trail had magnificent panoramas throughout the trail.
Since parking is very convenient in Volkach, I left the car there, close to the trail, and within sight of Maria in Weingarten, a picturesque pilgrimage church, set in the first of the famous vineyards: the Volkacher Ratsherr, on the Weinberg just outside of town.
As the trail led further along the ridge, before descending into the village of Fahr, views of the Main appeared, with barges cruising past. Soon it was my turn on the water. A fun and unique feature of this trail includes a three minute ferry-ride across the Main: a thoroughly delightful way to take a break on a hike! As the little ferry chugged across the 75 meter stretch of river, I snapped photo after photo of the river, the ferry, the hillsides up and down river.
On the right side of the Main, shortly after passing an old brewery (with a seasonal biergarten), the trail headed back uphill. This section, about a third of a mile, was the only section of the trail not paved, but it was well maintained, and once on top of the ridge, regained pavement at the Weisses Haus.
This is a local landmark, visible from the trail on the other side, which I had first identified as the Weisses Haus when a studying a scenic board located on the trail between Volkach and Fahr. Nice touch that, having a view of a destination landmark! The Weisses Haus also has a bus stop in front of it, conveniently returning hikers to Volkach.
Shortly after the bus stop, I had reason to consider the bus schedule. Online descriptions of the hike, and even the 1/20,000 map I purchased from the tourist office (a worthwhile investment for about 2 euros) showed a circuit. But signs on the ground show a 7-kilometer leg heading south to Neuses am Berg, where the trail ends. The bus didn’t go there, so I decided to continue my circuit hike, passing through the Escherndorfer Lump, Vogelsburger Pforte, and Astheimer Kartaeuser vineyards. The trail was high above the Main, overlooking its twists and turns, and the wine village of Nordheim on the “Wine Island.”
Shortly after passing the Vogelsburg convent, founded over a millennium ago, the trail headed downhill to Astheim, where it passed the Kartause, another old religious establishment, now a museum. Then it was over the river, and shortly thereafter, back into Volkach center.
Volkach is a picturesque small town, with lots of weinstube and wineries. It is as good a place as any to sample some of the local wines from the vineyards I’d traversed, Eschendorfer Berg, Eschendorfer Lump, Vogelsburger Pforte, and Astheimer Kartaeuser, as my reward for another fantastic and successful hike through wine country.