Trail Name: Valle dei Frati; AKA: CAI 746
Trail Type: A short distance circuit trail; well-maintained and almost exclusively hard-packed surfaces, from tarmac to grassland, although there were a couple of small muddy grassland spots; the trail is fairly well marked.
Length:
Total – 8 kilometers/4.97 miles
Convenient to: Casale Monferrato, or Asti, Piedmont, Italy
Marking:
Red and white horizontal (or vertical) bars, and/or words “CAI 746” (Also see featured photo above.)
Sometimes pilgrimages bring the pilgrims making the journey closer to heaven. Me, I just felt closer to heaven merely viewing the wide vistas from one of the Markgraeflerland district’s venerated vineyards, passing through old forests, eerily quiet in the face of an impending storm, and confronting the vestiges of pilgrimages past and present. This hike truly was more than just a hiking experience. It synthesized much of what I look for in the vineyard or wine trails I select.
In the first place, the hike proceeded through a few different vineyard areas. The first was the Batzenberg, rising uniquely outside the village, supporting almost nothing but vines on its slope. It is a good, reliable area for vines. Along with the Oberduerrenberg vineyard, that the trail subsequently traversed, these two vineyards represented some of the best parcels in the area. I liked them both for two very different reasons. From the top of the Batzenberg, one could almost feel on top of the world. With nothing but vines, the far-reaching vistas were impressive.
What I Learned
The Markgraeflerland district is along the southern-most section of the Rhine as it borders France, in the region of Baden, in the state of Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany. It is the southern-most wine producing district in Germany. It begins in Weil am Rhein, just outside the Swiss city of Basel, and continues almost to Freiburg. The vineyards lie on the foothills between the river valley floor, and the Black Forest mountains to the east. About 3000 hectares, and 90 cooperatives, cellars and wine estates are dedicated to the production of this region’s wine, carried out the in villages and small towns that dot this area.
Trail Name: Batzenbergrunde
Trail Type: A mid-distance circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively hard-packed (or paved) surfaces, marking on the trail is not trail-specific
Length: 13.75 kilometers/8.5 miles
Convenient to: Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany, or Basel, Switzerland
Marking:
None specific to the trail, (although I did see wooden one sign); but there were plenty of directional signs (see above).
The vines were still bare, but spring was on the way. Those famous April showers were watering the early spring flowers, the only splashes of color on that wet spring day. Nevertheless, rain or shine, the word “Vougeot” conjures up so much of the magic of Burgundy and its wines, that I had to complete the eponymous hike: Autour du Clos de Vougeot.
What I Learned:
The Cote de Nuits refers to the northern half of Burgundy’s famous Cote D’Or (Golden Slope). (Whereas the southern half is known as the Cote de Beaune.) The northern, Cote de Nuits, section runs from south of Dijon to just south of Corgoloin in Burgundy.
There are eight villages/towns that fall within the Cote de Nuits growing area. The Grands Crus, the most prestigious vineyards, are well known because the most renowned have their names attached to the village they lie in. The village of Chambolle cites one of its most prestigious vineyards, Musigny, in its name – hence the village has become known as Chambolle-Musigny. Another nearby village-vineyard combination includes Morey-Saint Denis. But perhaps the most famous village, Vougeot, has no such hyphenated name. Its Grand-Cru is called Clos de Vougeot, in reference to the famous monastery vineyard. The wines from these Grands Crus are usually highly esteemed.
Trail Name: Autour du Clos Vougeot
Trail Type: An easy, short circuit trail, mostly hard packed or tarmac surfaces, fairly well maintained, with some signage along the route.
Length:
Total – 8.5 kilometers/ 5.25 miles
Convenient to: Dijon or Beaune, France
Marking: Yellow rectangles/bars, and the occasional named trail sign. See also the featured photo of trail signage above.
Continue reading Autour du Clos de Vougeot: Trail in a Nutshell
