What I Learned:
In Germany, the Moselle River valley vintners vie with the Rhine River valley vintners for producing great quality Rieslings. It is certainly Germany’s second-most well-known river, running as it does some 250 kilometers/155 miles from the French-Luxembourg border to the Rhine. Although less well-known and shorter than the Rhine, the Moselle can claim to be Germany’s oldest wine-producing region. Continue reading Wine Notes: The Moselle’s Bernkastel District
Trail Name: Mosel Radweg
Trail Type: Long distance bike trail; almost exclusively paved, exceptionally well maintained, and very well-marked.
Length:
Total: (Thionville – Koblenz) approximately 277 kilometers/172 miles
My Segment: (Bernkastel – Cochem) approximately 80 kilometers/49.75 miles
Convenient to: Trier or Koblenz, Germany
Marking: White M and white bicycle icon on a square green placard
Craving the colors and scents of plants in the first blush of bloom, and the warmth of a southern sun, I decided to visit the northernmost part of the largest appellation along the Rhone River, south of Lyon, where some consider the Mediterranean part of France to begin. So I really looked forward to this spring trip after a cold and dreary winter.
Ironically, the northernmost village within this appellation, was also one of the villages offering a promising wine trail. Here, where the Condrieu appellation ends, the agglomerated village of Chavanay and the Saint Joseph appellation begin. This appellation produces both luscious red wines, and aromatic, full-bodied white wines. Ideal for sipping in potentially any kind of weather.
What I Learned
Three great appellations begin about 15 miles south of Lyons. They range along the right bank of the Rhone and are, from north to south: the famous Cote Rotie, Condrieu, and St Joseph. In two of the three appellations, the Syrah varietal reigns supreme.
The Saint Joseph appellation is the largest. Its vineyards line the steep banks of the Rhone for about 60 kilometers, or 37 miles, and includes 26 villages and towns, mostly located along its shores. The vineyard soils are predominantly granitic.
Trail Name: Sentier des Vignobles a Chavanay
Trail Type: Medium distance circuit; partly paved, some hard-packed path, some sandy and rocky stretches, fairly well maintained, and fairly well-marked albeit not with the trail name as stated above.
Length: 12 kilometers/circa 8 miles
Convenient to: Vienne, France
Marking:
White and yellow rectangular stripes, sometimes painted or sometimes on a board, sometimes with the words “Chavanay 1”, (vice Sentier des Vignobles a Chavanay). Also see the typical trail signpost, above.
Continue reading Sentier des Vignobles a Chavanay: Trail in a Nutshell
In my search in Italy for a DOC wine producing region around Lake Como, Lake Maggiore or Lake Lugano, I found nothing. Instead, I made a great find just over the border in Switzerland: delicious wines from the southern-most part of the Ticino, complemented with great food, and well-laid-out vineyard trails.
The Ticino is Italianate Switzerland, with similar weather and feel to it. It is set in a small piece of land which is roughly bounded by Lake Como, Lake Lugano, and Lake Maggiore. The beautiful lakes are surrounded by mountains which range away in ridges from the lakes in ever increasing heights, ending in snow-capped peaks. This hike began by the lowest ridge, which is also where the vines begin.
What I Learned:
The Ticino canton ranks as the fourth most important wine growing canton in Switzerland. Wine production in this area can be dated to the Roman era. Some of the older varietals formerly grown in this area, such as the Freisa, Paganona, and Rossera, were devastated by the phylloxera parasite which arrived in the Ticino around 1893.
This area is now famed for its Merlot grapes. These were primarily introduced at the beginning of last century, after, and in response to, the phylloxera epidemic. They are grown in about 1000 hectares of this canton. Merlot buds rather later in the spring compared to some other varietals, and its harvest in this area occurs at the end of September or beginning of October. From these grapes, its vintners produce a red wine version, aged in oak or steel, and a unique white wine version. Look for “Merlot Vinificato in Bianco.” Approximately 85% of all wine production in this canton is Merlot.
Trail Name: Itinerari Tra I Vigneti 1 (Through the Vineyards 1)
Trail Type: medium distance circuit; on asphalt in urban areas, or hard packed gravel otherwise, with a few stairs or risers in the steep areas; well maintained, and well-marked.
Length: total: 12.5 km/7.8 miles
Convenient to: Chiasso or Lugano, Switzerland; or Como, Italy
Marking: A florescent green triangle on a square purple background, with stylized white grapes in the corner. Alternatively, the same stylized grapes but in purple, on an arrow-shaped yellow marker displaying a hiker. Note: While the green triangle could indicate a mountain-bike route, I noted that following it in the absence of the yellow marker, still kept me on track with my navigation device.
Continue reading Itinerari Tra I Vigneti 1 – Trail in a Nutshell
I had to laugh at the dog. Just yards from the start of this 99.1 kilometer wine trail (my longest yet), the trail inclined dizzyingly, twisting up and away from Freiburg’s historic old center. Yet a little dog, not much bigger than a cat really, trotted past me, his tiny jacket proclaiming “Yes I can.”
A bit further along this trail, I came across a group of preschoolers on an outing: each one bearing a backpack no less than a third his size. Thus inspired, I thought: I can do this entire trail, in spite of the several challenges it presented.
