On A Lemberger Tour

 

Lemberger is an important varietal in Wuerttemberg. Its red wine, especially when mixed with Trollinger, is a popular local beverage. Not surprisingly, a circuit bicycle trail in the northwestern corner of the state is devoted to it, and this is the story of that trail.

The trail has history too. Technically starting in an area known as the Kraichgau (not to be confused with the smaller wine district known as Kraichgau in the Baden wine region, with which Wuerttemberg shares this area), it has been an agricultural area for a long, long time. Its name Kraichgau, is believed to derive from the Celtic word for loam. The loamy soils are good for vines. Additionally, this area, and indeed the trail itself, is dominated by the Heuchelberg, a massive ridge with multiple peaks. Its steep slopes provide good drainage, and maximize sunlight on the vines ranging up its southern exposures. Kleingartach, one of the wine villages on the slopes of the Heuchelberg, has presumably had vineyards ever since its donation to the Carolingian Lorsch Abbey in the eighth century. And this is the village where the trail began.

Kleingartach and its Vines
Kleingartach and its Vines

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Wine Notes: Wuerttemberg’s Heuchelberg

 

What I Learned

One of the Wuerttemberg’s many wine zones in the Unterland district, the Heuchelberg, is located west of Heilbronn. The area is known as the land of 1000 hills, perfect for planting vineyards!

The Heuchelberg is a long mountain ridge in this area. Heavily wooded on top, its south- and west- facing slopes are well situated to catch the rays of the sun. Viticulture is one of several agricultural endeavors practiced here. (Grains, corn, and fruit trees are some of the other local products of the land.) Little villages nestle in sheltered contours of the ridge, and some, like Neipperg and Haberschlacht, are known as wine villages. The main towns (and wine centers) around the Heuchelberg are Eppingen, Schwaigern and Brackenheim.

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Lemberger Tour: Trail in a Nutshell

Trail Name: Lemberger Tour

Trail Type: Mid-distance bicycle circuit; either hard-packed or paved surface, well maintained, and distinctively marked in some places.

Length: Total: 43.5 kilometers/ 27 miles

Convenient to: Heilbronn, Germany

Marking: A small square sign with a stylized red grape bunch, and the words “Lemberger Tour” in blue letters on a white background.

Lemberger Tour Sign
Lemberger Tour Sign

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Family Fun on the Rebenweg

 

When I read that this trail was “baby carriage accessible,” I had my doubts. In such a hilly area? All 8 miles of it? But from start to finish, it was accessible, for baby carriage, or walkers, or even motorized wheelchairs. The whole family could be out there enjoying this wonderful experience. Hence, I am inspired to get the word out on this trail.

But the hills? Well, if walking up to the start from the Biel train station (which will add an extra couple of kilometers), that first hill is steep. But, if you take the bus to, or park at, the top of this first hill, you not only eliminate that challenge, but also begin with a beautiful view of Lake Biel down below. Thus inspired, the final 35 yards of slight incline to the starting marker is easy. Not only that, the start is along a lovely shaded path, which although not tarmacked, is smooth, hard-packed earthen surface. Subsequent inclines are quite gentle.

Trail through the Woods
Trail through the Woods

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Wine Notes: Switzerland’s Lake Biel Region

 

What I Learned

Set in central-western Switzerland, with the Alps rising to the east, and the Jura Mountains behind it to the west, this hilly region is surprisingly good when it comes to growing grapes. About 200 hectares of vineyards cover the slopes of the hills in and around Lake Biel. In this bilingual area the name is Lac du Bienne in French.

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Rebenweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Chemin du Vignoble (French); OR Rebenweg (German)

Trail Type: Mid-distance; almost exclusively paved, well maintained, and well-marked.

Length: Total: 12.9 kilometers/ 8 miles

Convenient to: Biel, Switzerland

Marking: Marking is the name of the route itself (in German or French) at some intersections; otherwise a gold diamond (with or without a stylized figure of a hiker in black superimposed) indicate you are on a hiking trail. (See featured photograph above.)

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Rambling Along the Ramberge

Amboise is a delightful town in the Loire River valley. It is also the center of one of the smallest appellations in the area, the Appellation Touraine Amboise Controlee. I finally had a chance to visit!

Amboise has a low-key, country town atmosphere. But there is nothing small about its attractions, which include a magnificent royal chateau, perched high above the river, a compact historical center, and the Clos de Luce, the final home of Leonardo Da Vinci. It is especially photogenic, set as it is along the impressively broad Loire, and against the backdrop of low green hills. Finally, there are the wines, notably the chilled Roses, especially appealing on warm summer days.

Chateau d'Amboise
Chateau d’Amboise

 

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Entre Vignes et Ramberge: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Entre Vignes et Ramberge

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; almost exclusively paved, well maintained, and fairly well-marked marked.

Length: Total: 8 kilometers/5 miles

Convenient to: Amboise, France

Marking: Wooden plaques identify the trailheads (See above); Yellow lines, straight or bent to indicate direction, below.

Trail Signage for Left Turn
Trail Signage for Left Turn

 

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