Wine Notes: Alsace’s Bas Rhin

 

What I Learned

The Bas Rhin department, in the far, northeastern corner of France, can lay claim to several Grands Crus of Alsace. Many of the better-known ones begin around Barr, and continue south. These are the Zotzenberg of Mittelbergheim (which produces Sylvaner Grand Cru wine, unusual in Alsace); the Kastelberg, Wiebelsberg and Moenchberg Grands Crus of Andlau; the Muenchberg of Nothalten and the Winzenberg of Blienschwiller; Frankstein of Dambach la Ville, and the Praelatenberg of Orschwiller/Kintzheim, the southern-most Grands Crus in the entire Bas Rhin department. However, the northern area of this department has several of its own. The Grands Crus in the Bas Rhin department from Marlenheim in the north to Bergbieten in the south are: the Steinklotz of Marlenheim, Dahlenheim’s Engelberg, the Altenbergs of Wolxheim and Bergbieten, and Molsheim’s Bruderthal.

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The Loejele: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Le Loejele (part of the trail series “Circuits de Bacchus”)

Trail Type: Medium distance circuit; partly paved, partly packed earthen trail surface; mostly well maintained; the route itself is marked very well.

Length: total: 14.6 kilometers/9 miles

Marking: Trace of a ring in yellow, with a white interior

Signage on the Loejele Trail
Signage on the Loejele Trail

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In Rebland

 

“Rebland” marks the start of Ortenau’s “grape-land” south and west of Baden-Baden. This is wonderful vineyard country. From the villages of Varnhalt to Steinbach to Neuweier are some of the well-known named vineyards ranged along (usually) sunny slopes: the Altenberg, Sommerhalde, and Klosterbergfelsen by Varnhalt, the Stich den Buben by Steinbach/Umweg, and the Mauerberg and Goldenes Loch in Neuweier.

The Nellenberg is the hill rising above Varnhalt. Covered with vines, this great little town is famous locally for its wine. Rising above the Nellenberg is Yberg mountain, crowned by a castle, which has astounding and far-ranging views of this part of the Rhine River Valley. Around the other side of these hills is Neuweier, with its palace and famous vineyards.

Castle and Mountain of Yberg
Castle and Mountain of Yberg

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Wine Notes: Baden/Ortenau

 

What I Learned

Within Baden’s Ortenau wine district, there are several distinct wine areas. One of these is known as Rebland  (literally, grape-land), located just south of the famous spa town of Baden-Baden, and north of Buhlertal. The steep hills offer a nice western and sometimes southerly exposure. These hills, which protect the grape-bearing slopes from too much wind, and the relatively mild and sunny climate, make this one of the best areas for growing grapes in Germany.

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Nellele Rundweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Nellele Rundweg

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; often paved, the remainder is hard-packed earth, well maintained, the route is very well marked.

Length: total: 7.2 kilometers/4.5 miles

Convenient to: Baden-Baden, and Karlsruhe, Germany

Marking: A purple-pink circle on a white background.

Signage for the Nellele Rundweg
Signage for the Nellele Rundweg

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Wien und Wein

 

Two words to know if travelling to Vienna: Wien, the German name for the city, and Wein, the German word for wine. Although they look similar, a transposition of the vowels makes the two diphthongs sound very different, which imparts very different meanings – important to keep in mind when ordering some of Vienna’s delicious wines. Wine is everywhere in Vienna.

Zum Figmueller Sign
Zum Figmueller Sign

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Wine Notes: Vienna

 

What I Learned

Vienna is the only European capital with vines grown within its city limits. While the Romans were here, definitive proof that vines were located inside the walls, in the current First District (the area around the Hofburg and the cathedral), dates only to the late Middle Ages.

Nowadays, there are three primary vineyard areas within the city, (and two other areas, by Sievering and Oberlaa). The Bisamberg, east of the Danube, centering around Stammersdorf and Strebersdorf. Wine growing in Stammersdorf, on the Bisamberg, began in the 12th century. The terroir here favors the Pinot family of grapes.

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Stadtwanderweg 5: Trail in a Nutshell

Trail Name:  Stadtwanderweg 5

Trail Type: Mid-distance; almost exclusively paved with paving stone or tarmac, well maintained, and very well-marked.

Length: Total: 10.3 kilometers/ 6.3 miles

Convenient to: Vienna, Austria

Marking: (Mostly) Wooden signs with the words: Stadtwanderweg 5

Signage Stadtwanderweg 5
Signage Stadtwanderweg 5

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Wine and the Dentelles

 

What do the Dentelles de Montmirail and Gigondas wines have in common?  In my mind, both are compelling and chiseled. The explanation is a bit further below. First, some definitions of terms used.

What are the Dentelles? A scientific explanation would go into the creation of limestone, and then into a discussion of plate tectonics and fault lines. Together, these geological forces created sharp ridges of jagged, limestone peaks rising over 500 meters. A photograph is much more impressive though.

Dentelles
Dentelles

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