What I Learned
The Wuerttemberg wine region, while not perhaps the best-known German wine region, has made significant contributions to wine culture throughout Germany and the world. Wuerttemberg’s Unterland district is one of six that makes up this region. The small town of Weinsberg, near the city of Heilbronn, are in this district (and on the trail), and have oenological claims to fame.
Trail Name: Wiesen, Wein und Treue Weiber (Fields, Wine and True Women)
Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit; varied surfaces (grass, dirt, paved); mostly well-maintained, but the route itself is not specifically marked.
Length: 13.5 kilometers/8.5 miles
Convenient to: Heilbronn, Germany
Marking: None uniquely specific to the trail’s itinerary. The photo below merely indicates first marking. (See the itinerary below.)
Hallowed sites exist in many forms throughout the world, and whether they are religious, ethnic or historic, all are sacred to its devotees. I recently visited such an area. It is revered by those who prefer powerful, age-worthy, Rhone red wines; who worship them, sadly often from afar, because the prices can reach astounding levels. This is the story of a pilgrimage to Tain.
Tain, or Tain l’Hermitage, as the town has become officially known, contains within its boundaries the appellation known as Hermitage, one of France’s most prestigious wine appellations. More like a village than a small town, it has a history that predates even the Romans. It’s reputation as a wine center is even more august, attracting pilgrims from every corner of the world.
What I Learned
“Hermitage” as in Appellation Hermitage Controlee (AOC), is one of the most well-known wine appellations on the planet. It is located in the small town of Tain l’Hermitage, France, (which is also home to the chocolatier Valrhona). Situated on the left bank of the Rhone River, which faces west, at a spot where it bends dramatically, producing a southern exposure for many parcels as well. The vineyards rise up steeply behind the town, which itself lies on a narrow alluvial plain.
Trail Name: Sur les Pas de Gambert
Trail Type: Short distance circuit; surfaces vary from paved to rutted dirt to pebble on stone, mostly maintained, and fairly well marked.
Length: 4 kilometers/ 2.5 miles
Convenient to: Vienne or Lyon, France
Marking:
Yellow rectangles indicating direction of travel
White panels, with a large black colored number, QR code and photo collage of Louis Gambert
Continue reading Sur les Pas de Gambert: Trail in a Nutshell
Attention wine drinkers: This trail is for you.
Most of the wine- or vineyard-themed trails I have followed focus on seeing particular terroir or grape varieties, or learning about the vinicultural processes involved in making a regional wine. But one trail along the foothills of the Hessische Bergstrasse wine region though, seems to focus on enjoyment of the final product, that is to say, drinking the wines themselves. And given the name of the trail, the Winzer und Weinstuben Tour, (the Vintner and Wine Bar Tour), that is not surprising.
What I Learned
The Hessische Bergstrasse is one of the smallest wine regions in Germany, with less than 450 hectares of land under vine. Facing onto the Rhine River valley, with the Odenwald mountains and forest at its back, the weather here is milder than in most other places in Germany. The name of the region comes from the “mountain road” (Berg Strasse) that the Romans built along the foothills. Roman roads often had relay stations, small forts and taverns to serve officials and soldiers as well as travelling merchants. And where Romans resided, they often planted vines for wine. So, the first evidence of viticulture dates to 2,000 years ago.
Trail Name: Winzer und Weinstuben Tour
Trail Type: Short distance trail; on almost exclusively paved bike paths or roads, well maintained, but the route itself is not marked.
Length: 19 kilometers / 12 miles
Convenient to: Darmstadt or Heidelberg, Germany
Marking: None
Continue reading Winzer und Weinstuben Tour: Trail in a Nutshell
The sea, hiking and wines are three of my favorite things to experience. However, it is not always easy to find a place where waves meet the vines. It is rarer still to find well-marked and maintained trails in such spots. Serendipitiously though, it is possible to savor all three in Collioure.
A recent trip to the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France led to the town of Collioure, a little gem of a town. Set on a beautiful bay, it is famous for its narrow, atmospheric streets in the old town, leading to one of its old forts. It is also famous for its wines. The vineyards surrounding the town produce wines both for the AOC Collioure and for the Banyuls AOC. Finally, it has some delightful trails through the hills and vineyards for hikers and mountain-bike riders to enjoy.
