A Prosecco Circuit

 

Prosecco is a wonderful sparkling wine from northern Italy. So, when passing through Valdobbiadene, famed for its Prosecco, I decided to complete the eponymous circuit, which incidentally, touched on some of the finest vineyards known in the world of Prosecco.

I must confess though, both this circuit, the towns, and even the famous vines of the Cartizze, are a bit remote, and relatively unknown to most wine hikers. What a shame! This is primarily an agricultural area, rather rural and a bit wild, backing onto some of Italy’s most rugged mountains outside the Dolomites. This creates in part an atmosphere of isolation, but for those determined to visit, it is only about 90 minutes from Venice, in a district known as the Marca Trevigiana, today practically identical with the Province of Treviso.

Heights above Valdobbiadene

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Wine Notes: Prosecco DOCG

 

What I Learned

The region producing Prosecco DOC wines maybe be found throughout northeastern Italy in the provinces of Belluno, Pordenone, Treviso, Padua, Gorizia, Udine, Venice and Vicenza. However, two major production districts within the Veneto region, in the Province of Treviso, are particularly well-known: Conegliano and Valdobbiadene (stress on the second “A”, in case you wondered). This is the designated Prosecco DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) area, a higher quality level than the Prosecco DOC. Conegliano anchors the eastern part of the area.

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Anello del Prosecco: Trail in a Nutshell

Trail Name: Anello del Prosecco (Prosecco Circuit)

Trail Type: A short to medium distance circuit; very diverse surfaces (asphalt, trackless, cart trail, dirt), somewhat maintained; the route itself is marked diversely, and sometimes not at all.

Length:

Total – 15 kilometers/9.33 miles

Segment – 8.5 kilometers/5.25 miles

Convenient to: Valdobbiadene, Italy

Marking: Varies, sometimes following different CAI numbered paths (1019, 1014), and the occasional large iron stands with yellow and white signs waxing poetic on the wines and vines of the area.

Trail 1014b Signs

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White Gold in Baden

 

Anyone fortunate enough to be in Germany in late April, May or the first half of June, has undoubtedly experienced “Spargel Saison”: Asparagus Season. These are not your ordinary asparagus spears! They are round, and fat, and so fresh-looking as to be unreal. They are ethereally white, and they have a dainty crisp-tenderness that defies description. They can also be extremely expensive, with the first local spears starting at around $30 for a kilo (2.2 pounds). It is the white gold of the vegetable world (excepting hops shoots, which relate to beer so we won’t go there) – ranking up there with other costly edibles such as white truffles and saffron.

Come Asparagus Season, traditional dishes such as asparagus cream soup (many variations, but all delicious), and steamed asparagus spears with herbed crepes (or steamed potatoes) and hollandaise sauce, make their seasonal appearance on menus across the country, but especially in the Rhine Valley. Suggested wine pairings include Baden’s Gutedel, and Franconia’s Silvaner wines.

Palatable White Gold from Baden

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Wine Notes: Baden’s Kraichgau

 

What I Learned

The Kraichgau district of the Baden wine region is a relatively small pocket of hill territory located east of the Rhine and south of Heidelberg. This district is less well-known than many other Baden districts, and is characterized by small farming communities. The better-known Ortenau district of Baden begins south of the Kraichgau.

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Weisses Gold und Traubensaft: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Weisses Gold und Traubensaft

Trail Type: A medium-distance, themed bicycle circuit; almost exclusively paved, well maintained, but the route itself is not marked.

Length: Total: 49 kilometers/ 31 miles

Convenient to: Heidelberg, or Karlsruhe, Germany

Marking: None

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A Tale of Two Pouillys II

 

One of my favorite white wines is Pouilly-Fuisse, one of France’s well-known appellations. It lies in Burgundy, not too far south from the famous Cote d’Or with its own many fine appellations. Early in my wine-drinking career, I often confused that wine name with Pouilly-Fume. Therefore, I decided to get a closer look, since visually, there would inevitably be cues to keep the two villages, and hence the two wines, apart in my mind.

The Pouilly-Fuisse hike I completed was just that – a walk between and around the tiny villages of Pouilly and Fuisse. The trail name said it all: Entre Pouilly et Fuisse (Between Pouilly and Fuisse), and it provided a great opportunity to see both villages up close.

Fuisse

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Wine Notes: Pouilly-Fuisse

 

What I Learned:

The Appellation Pouilly-Fuisse lies in the southern part of Burgundy’s Maconnais district, not too far from Lyon. It covers a small area: only Chaintre, Vergisson, Fuisse, Pouilly and Solutre, (known collectively as Solutre-Pouilly), totaling about 755 hectares (less than 1900 acres). This area was once under a vast sea, as is witnessed by the high concentration of limestone, made of trillions of trillions of tiny shells from ancient mollusks. Dropping down to the bottom of the sea, once the sea retreated, the shell mass solidified into calcareous limestone. This type of limestone can impart a fair degree of minerality to the wine.

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Entre Pouilly et Fuisse: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Fuisse (FU), Subtitled: Entre Pouilly et Fuisse

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; partly paved, partly hard-packed path, some rocky sections, well maintained, but the route itself is fairly well-marked.

Length: 8 kilometers/5 miles

Convenient to: Macon or Lyon, France

Marking: Posts with yellow signs indicating location, directions and distances; yellow (usually painted bars) on trail route will indicate that you are still on a trail, and your next change of direction (left or right)

Trail Marker Indicating Location, Direction and Distances

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