The Hike That Wasn’t

November 12, 2020 admin

This may be the shortest post on record. Minutes away from Weimar, I gave a mighty tug on my luggage, stubbornly stuck under the train seat, only to have my knee, not my backpack, give way. Going down, using an old Anglo-Saxon cognate that caught the attention of the many modern-day German-speaking passengers, they graciously helped me off the train at the station. Months preparing for this two-day hike, hours of travel from Frankfurt, and in the end, no hike.

Fortunately, a friend and I had planned to meet at the station in Weimar, and he had a rental car. So off we went to Naumburg, just over the Thuringian border, in Saxony-Anhalt. Naumburg is a lovely old town with a spectacular medieval cathedral, (housing Disney’s Snow White evil stepmother look-alike – judge for yourself, below), and site of the trailhead for the Saale Weinwanderweg.

The trail commemorates the Saale-Unstrut wine region in Germany. It is one of two wine regions in eastern Germany, and the one with the northern most vineyards in Germany. These vineyards lie mostly on the south-facing hills and river banks lining the Unstrut and the Saale rivers (not to be confused with the Fraenkische Saale river, further south). Hence this trail partly follows along these two rivers. And the trailhead is located not far from where the two rivers meet, just outside Naumburg.

My friend, there to tour historical sites and peruse antique porcelain, graciously agreed to shuttle me to a series of points on the trail, accessible by car, where I could hop out, literally, to take photos. First stop, the trailhead. As evident by the photo below, this part of the trail is also a bicycle path, as were the subsequent sections I saw. It appeared that much of this trail could be biked, with a hybrid or mountain bike, from the looks of the sections I could reach. One caveat though, there are two sections higher up the hillsides, and through woods, that are probably a bit rougher, possibly suitable only for hiking. (There are cycling path alternatives though.)

Another nice feature of this trail is the fact that it passes through some of the wine villages and towns in this region. The largest town in the area, Naumburg, has a nicely maintained historic district. It, and the cathedral, are worth a visit. Then there were a couple of villages. Kleinjena, opposite Grossjena on the Unstrut, comes next on the itinerary. Rossbach is a bit beyond Kleinjena. A settlement appropriately named Weinberge “vineyards”, follows, with its collections of vines suspended on the banks facing the Saale. Wine loving hikers will find several small, family run wineries along this sector of the trail.

Before reaching Bad Koesen, Kloster Pforta appears on the trail. This old monastery building is now one of the largest local wineries. Its Saalhaeuser vineyard rise above it, and the river passes in front of it. The winery has a cozy a wine tavern collocated with it. Its little terrace looks out over the river, and on a nice day, would be ideal for sipping a glass or two of its wines. (The other large winery, the Naumburger Wein und Sekt Manufaktur, is in fact a still and sparkling wine firm located on the trail a bit further upriver in Henne-Naumburg.)

The trail returns to Naumburg via the bridge crossing at Bad Koesen. It is a small spa town on the Saale, to the west of Naumburg. In addition to being a spa town, with all the amenities found in any German spa town, there are several hiking trails in that district, and a least a couple of these focus on the vineyards. At the edge of Bad Koesen lies Schulpforte, formerly a Cistercian monastery dating to the twelfth century. (These were the monks who founded the original winery now found at the Kloster Pforta mentioned above.) After the abbey’s dissolution, the Duke of Saxony founded a school on the property. The impressive complex backs onto the side of a forested hill. The trail continues up that hill and through a forest for about two kilometers, back to Naumburg. (This was the part I could not hobble to, so I can’t write about the trail conditions.)

I completed my photo reconnaissance of this trail in less than an hour, vice two days. Thus, I had time to visit Colditz, and get lunch in a wine tavern. Over the rest of the day, and the next, I had opportunities to sample some Saale-Unstrut wines, and finalize plans to return some day to hike in the area, and taste more wines.

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Germany’s Saale-Unstrut

November 11, 2020 admin

What I Learned

In 998 Emperor Otto III gave vineyards to Memleben Abbey, thus providing the first historic evidence we have of vineyards along the Saale and Unstrut.

The Saale-Unstrut winegrowing region covers some 770 hectares. The landscape is characterized by hills of shell limestone and variegated sandstone soils, often terraced, contained by centuries-old dry-stone walls.

Sited on the 51st degree of latitude, it is the northernmost designated quality wine region in Germany. The Saale Unstrut region extends over three German states: Saxony-Anhalt (639 hectares), Thuringia (108 hectares), and a real northern outlier in Brandenburg (by Potsdam) (8.4 hectares). Overall, the wine region receives about 1600 hours of sunshine, more than Trier in the Moselle wine region but less than Freiburg, in the southern Baden wine region in the Rhine River Valley. It gets about 500 milliliters of rainfall a year.

With over 50 grape varieties, the Saale-Unstrut wine region offers a wide variety of wines. Many of the grape varietals, both red and white, are known to do well in colder, wetter climates.

Of the white varietals, both Pinot Blanc and Müller-Thurgau, which can be surprisingly spicy here, lead by far in terms of production. Riesling, Bacchus, Gruener Silvaner, Pinot Gris, Kerner, Traminer and Gutedel, one of my favorite German whites, follow in order of quantity.

Red wine constitutes about 25 percent of all production, and comes primarily from Dornfelder (by far the most grown and vinified red varietal), followed by Portugieser; Blauer Zweigelt, and Spaetburgunder. Regent, one of my favorite German reds, is growing in popularity. One rare red varietal grown here only in tiny amounts is the André, which is a cross between the Blaufraenkisch (aka: Lemberger) and the Saint Laurent. It is difficult to find a bottle, or even a glass, of this wine.

There are over 50 private wine estates, and the Winzervereinigung Freyburg-Unstrut winegrowers’ association, the state-owned Kloster Pforta (over 850 years of wine-making), and the Wein und Sekt Manufaktur in Naumburg-Henne, and the Rotkäppchen Sektkellerei in Freyburg, both produce sparkling wines.

What I Tasted

2016 Spaetburgunder, Kabinett, Trocken, Winzerverein Freyburg (Unstrut): A dry red wine with medium plus ruby red color; slight red berry nose, with cherry, red berry, vanilla and oak flavors; medium minus tannins, with a smooth finish.

2015 Weiss Burgunder, Qba, Trocken, Landesweingut Kloster Pforta: A dry white wine with light gold color; floral and grass nose, with apricot, floral and grassy flavors; medium minus acidity, with a tart finish.

2015 Weiss Burgunder Kabinett, Trocken, Weingut Herzer (Rossbach): A dry white wine with light gold color; peach nose, with peach and toasted nuts flavors; medium minus acidity.

2015 Gruener Silvaner, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Halb-trocken, Weingut Herzer (Rossbach): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; a grass and herbal nose, with same flavors; medium minus acidity.

Source for the first section: https://www.weinregion-saale-unstrut.de/de/9/die-weine/rebsorten

Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Saale Weinwanderweg: Trail in a Nutshell

November 11, 2020 admin

Trail Name: Saale Weinwanderweg

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit hiking trail; well-maintained and mostly smooth surfaces, much of it paved, but no trail-specific marking on the trail

Length:

Total – 25 kilometers/15.5 miles

Convenient to: Leipzig, Germany

Marking:

No trail-specific marking

Trail Description: A very easy, if not a bit long trail, with only one ascent of any challenge, through the largely isolated vineyard areas between Naumburg and Bad Koesen, and those two urban centers. While the scenery is less spectacular than other trails, the attraction here is found in the quiet and very laid-back countryside of this little-known wine region of northern Germany.

Trailhead: Marienring x Hallesche Str, Naumburg, Saxony-Anhalt, Germany

Parking:

Naumburg (just before the river crossing to Henne): a medium sized unimproved lot

Grossjena: K233x Wasserstr, just after the bridge, a small unimproved lot

Bad Koesen: by the sports field at the trailhead, at the end of Hallesche Strasse

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: DB (DeutscheBahn) regional trains serve this area, and the nearest, and undoubtedly largest, hub for services in the county is Leipzig.

Bus: PVG Burgenlandkreis serves the area with a combination of tram and bus lines. Check the website for details.

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Naumburg:, Hallesche Str-Hallesche Anger, along the Saale, over river on Hallesche Str; Henne: past the Naumburg Wein und Sekt Manufaktur, road turns to path; Along Bluetengrund toward Grossjena; Cross Unstrut after 500 meters passing the Max Klinger Museum entrance; Kleinjena: Friedrich-Schulze Strasse, Unter den Reussen, path; Rossbach: Pass St Elizabeth church, Am Leihdenberg, Am Meisel, Trift, Weinberge; Pass the Steinmeister vineyards, Pass the Besenwirtschaft Dierking, Along Saale on Weinberge-Saaleberge, Pass Klosterpforta; Bad Koesen: Saalstr, cross the bridge, Naumbergerstr/B87, An der Kleinen Saale; Schulpforte; woods, Panoramaweg, Koesener Str, Michaelisstr, Lindenring, Herrenstr, pass the town hall on the main square, Marienstr.

Representative Trail Photos:

Restrooms:

No public ones observed

Attractions on or near Trail:

Max Klinger Museum, just outside Grossjena, dedicated to a well-known local artist, who also had his own vineyards on the grounds.

The local wine museum is located between Grossjena and Freyburg, in Schloss Neuenburg, a mile or so off the trail.

Tasting along the Trail:

Trail boasts numerous vintner establishments along the way, but the Wein und Sekt Manufaktur in Naumburg-Henne, Kloster Pforta, Schulpforte, and the wineries between Rossbach and Bad Koesen, are your best opportunities to purchase bottles.

Alternative Options:

Hiking:

-Weinlehrpfad Saale-Unstrut, a 12-kilometer (7.4 mile) trail along the vineyards on the Unstrut, starts in Laucha, and finishes by the bridge in Freyburg.

-Weinbergsweg, an 11-kilometer (6.8 mile) circuit around Bad Koesen, some of which is on the Saale Weinwanderweg.

Biking: The long-distance Saale Radweg, while not wine-themed, passes many of the wineries mentioned above, and is used by this hiking trail in part.

Additional Information:

Regional:

http://www.weinregion-saale-unstrut.de/ for wine tourism information concerning this wine region

https://www.saale-unstrut-tourismus.de/ for tourism in general in the Burgenland Kreis county

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/wanderung/saale-unstrut/saale-weinwanderweg-ab-naumburg/1405756/#dm=1

Comments:

Due to a knee injury, I did not hike this trail itinerary, so I cannot comment on the ascent or the wooded section of this trail between Bad Koesen and Naumburg.

Biking, France

Bubbles!

November 2, 2020 admin

The Alsatians call their sparkling wines Cremant. But these were not the only bubbles (“bulles”) that I found along this “Bulles et Bugatti” cycling itinerary. There were wineries and taverns offering the Cremant of Alsace, of course. But equally enjoyable were the bubbling creeks along much of the way, from the Dachsteinerbach, the Bruche and its canal, the Mossig, Frankenbach and Kehlbach, finally, the Stillbach, (it wasn’t), a melodious stream bubbling its way to the Bruche.

Confluence: Stillbach, Muehlbach and the Bruche

The Bruche empties into the Ill, a tributary to the Rhine, by Strasbourg. Starting in the Vosges mountains, it ultimately flows by the vineyards in the foothills of the Vosges, before entering the flat fields surrounding Strasbourg. This geography lesson just to let you know that the itinerary did have some hills, but also some very flat stretches. Especially memorable for its peaceful, rural aspect was the section riding along the Bruche Canal, a paved and beautifully maintained bike path. It is even possible to follow this trail all the way to the heart of Strasbourg!

But this itinerary also included the hills and dales in the heart of the Bas Rhin vineyards. Departing Molsheim, and passing Dachstein, a medieval walled and effectively moated village, the ride proceeds mostly on a flat bike path, which is a delight, to the canal. The hills begin where the canal ends, at Soulz-les Bains.

As the name implies, there is a spa in Soulz, a small village with a wonderful bakery, and Lucien Doriath’s excellent restaurant dedicated to foie gras. (Don’t worry, you can work it all off while on the numerous hiking and cycling trails passing through the village.) In addition to the Bruche and its canal, the Mossig also runs through this area. In fact, this whole itinerary sits in a watershed, and water is impossible to avoid.

From Soulz, the itinerary climbs. As it does, vineyards replace fields, and the wine village of Bergbieten with its Grand Cru vineyard appears. Balbronn, another well-known wine village, is picturesquely surrounded by vineyards. Between there and Flexbourg, the higher elevations of the Vosges mountains come into view providing magnificent photo opportunities.

Once out of the hills, more rivers and streams appear. A marvelous confluence of several of these appear on the approach to Dinsheim sur Bruche. I cycled along the Stillbach, to where it joins the Bruche, then over the Muhlbach to cross the Bruche once again just before re-entering Molsheim. On the outskirts is the Bugatti factory. Bugatti was founded in Molsheim, and it still produces fantastic cars of distinction there. I must confess though, I saw few cars, much less Bugatti ones (the least expensive model starts at over two million dollars), while cycling, making this a relatively car free itinerary overall.

Molsheim is a small town, but the largest in this area. It is known to the wine world as the site of the Grand Cru Bruderthal, a “production” site as much esteemed locally as the Bugatti plant. The town itself boasts a couple of charming squares, fronted by historic and attractive half-timbered buildings. It is a nice place to base, if spending some time in the area. It has several restaurants serving good food and local wines, as well as a couple of wineries. Fortunately, all food and wine offerings, even the Cremant d’Alsace wines, cost only miniscule fractions of the cost of a Bugatti, hence may be happily enjoyed by all!

France, Wines

Wine Notes: Alsace’s Crémant

November 1, 2020 admin

What I Learned

The Alsatian wine region is famous throughout France, and the world. It is a great place to try excellent white wines, at very reasonable prices. In addition to the still wines made from the six main white varietals grown in Alsace – Riesling, Sylvaner, Gewuerztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris – sparkling wines are produced here.

Crémant is the name for the Alsatian sparkling wine made using the Champagne method. But unlike most Champagnes, Alsatian winemakers traditionally use Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Riesling to produce the classic Alsatian crémant. (Riesling brings a nice touch of acidity, as well as fruitiness to the blend, and is a unique addition to French sparkling wines.)

Vintners here also make good use of some of the other appellation Alsatian varietals. Some cremants use Pinot Blanc exclusively. The Rose cremants are made with exclusively of Pinot Noir (the only red appellation varietal grown in Alsace). Additionally, for the specific Appellation Crémant d’Alsace, Auxerrois and Chardonnay grapes may be used.

The appellation Crémant d’Alsace dates to 1976, and currently represents almost a quarter of Alsace’s total wine production. While the most well-known Alsatian crémant producer is Wolfberger, located in the Haut Rhin department, there are some Bas Rhin producers who consistently produce excellent sparkling wine as well. In the Bas Rhin, the cooperative winery Cave du Roi Dagobert, produces a nice line of Crémant. (Their winery (in Traenheim, less than ten kilometers/six miles from Molsheim) offered a wonderful tasting of their Crémant line, but unfortunately, I lost my tasting notes. Suffice it to say, they were all delicious and very reasonably priced.)

What I Tasted

Crémant, Dagobert Prestige, Demi-Sec, Appellation Crémant d’ Alsace Controlee, Cave du Roi Dagobert (Traenheim): A semi-dry white sparkling wine with fine, swirling, persistent bubbles and light gold color; floral and yeast nose, with floral and toast flavors; very smooth with mild acidity.

Crémant, Chardonnay, Brut, Appellation Crémant d’Alsace Controlee, Domaine Robert Klingenfus (Molsheim): A dry white wine with very fine bubbles, and medium gold color; floral and slight yeast nose, with floral and bread flavors, medium acidity.

2018 Cuvee d’Antoine, Domaine Robert Klingenfus: A dry white wine cuvee (mostly Pinot Gris, and a bit of Riesling), with medium minus gold color; a Riesling nose, with pear and floral flavors, high minus acidity.

2018 Pinot Gris, Signature, Appellation Alsace Controlee. Domaine Robert Klingenfus (Molsheim): A dry white wine with medium plus reddish gold color; a rich floral and spicy nose, with flavors of ripe peaches, roses, and vanilla and nutmeg spice; medium acidity, very smooth finish

2015 Gewürztraminer Glintzberg, Vendanges Tardives, Domaine Anstotz et Fils (Balbronn): A dry white wine with dark gold color; rich aromatic nose, with powerful lychee and concentrated exotic fruits flavors; mild acidity. (201908)

2015 Riesling, Westerweingarten, AOC Alsace, Domaine Anstotz et Fils (Balbronn): A dry white wine with medium plus gold color; a mineral nose, and peach and spice flavors, with a hint of turpentine; medium plus acidity.

2011 Riesling, Altenberg de Bergbieten, Grand Cru, Appellation Alsace Controlee, Domaine Roland Schmitt: A dry white wine with medium gold color; intense nose of spice and white fruit; citrus, floral and spice flavors; a full-bodied wine with medium acidity. (Tasted in 2014)

Biking, France, Nutshell

Bulles et Bugatti: Trail in a Nutshell

November 1, 2020 admin

Trail Name: Bulles et Bugatti; AKA BL 312

Trail Type: A mid-distance circuit bicycle itinerary; well-maintained surfaces, much of it paved, however no trail specific marking throughout the itinerary.

Length:

Total – 33 kilometers/ 20.5 miles

Convenient to: Molsheim, Strasbourg, Bas Rhin, Alsace, France

Marking: None specific to the itinerary. Some sections do have the typical green and white cyclist markings for a bicycle path to serve as a guide.

Trail Description: A well thought out itinerary through mostly rural landscapes with a variety of flat and hilly sections, vineyard, field and urban terrain, some on minimally trafficked road sectors, and some on fairly long stretches of vehicle-free bicycle path or dedicated bicycle lane.

Trailhead: Molsheim, Rue de Strasbourg, Porte des Forgerons

Parking:

Molsheim: R de la Commanderie x R Ernest Friedrich (closest to trailhead); Rue des Sports, by the open-air pool

Dorlisheim: Chemin des Moissons, Rue Mercure, north and south, in a mall area

Mutzig: Place de la Gare, Rue du Dr Schweitzer,

Balbronn: R du Fronhof (at the upper/higher end)

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: Frequent regional trains (TER) connect Strasbourg and Molsheim

Bus: Numbers 234 and 236 connect Molsheim with surrounding villages

See the comment below

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Molsheim: R. de Strasbourg x Avenue de la Gare, R. Charles Mistler, past Camping Municipal, over Bruche, along D93/D30; Dachstein: D30; Egerstein: Along Canal de la Bruche to Wolxheim; Wolxheim : R de Molsheim; Avolsheim: cycle path to Grotte d’Avolsheim, R. du Dompeter, R. de la Gare, Impasse de la Roseliere, cycle path; Soultz les Bains: R. de Molsheim/D422, D275: Dangolsheim: D275/Rte du Vin (past the Lavoir, or laundry basin); Bergbieten: D275/Rue des Vosges; Balbronn: D275/R. du Château, R. de la Foret, Rte de Flexbourg; Flexbourg: Rte de Flexbourg-R. des Acacias, R. de la Paix, R. des Seigneurs/D118; Still: D118/Rte de Flexbourg, Grande Rue; Dinsheim: D118, D392/ R. du General De Gaulle, past the Chapel of St Wendelin; Mutzig: Blvd Clemenceau; cross the Bruche, still on D392, past the Gare de Mutzig, Rte de Strasbourg; Faubourg des Vosges; Dorlisheim: Grand Rue, Avenue de la Gare/D392; Molsheim: D392; Altdorf: Chemin de la Blieth, R. des Romains, R. des Pres, R. Principale; Molsheim: R. Jean Mermoz, cycle path paralleling Rte Ecospace, D2422/R. de la Commanderie, past the Gare de Molsheim

Representative Trail Photos:

Restrooms:

Molsheim: Passage de la Post x Avenue de la Gare, about 50 meters west of the chapel in the parking lot by the old town gate “Tour des Forgerons”

Attractions on or near Trail:

Molsheim: Musee de la Chartreuse, focuses on millennia of history and traditions of the Bruche Valley, while another section covers the history of Bugatti (the other half of the name of this route), its cars and its connection to Molsheim.

Tasting along the Trail:

Wolxheim, Avolsheim, Soulz-les-Bains, Balbronn and Bergbieten are well-known wine villages with several wineries in each. Additionally, Molsheim is the largest town in the area, with several taverns and restaurants serving local wines.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: The circuit hike called Trotele, one of the Circuits of Bacchus, is a 13.6 kilometers hike through several of the same villages. See the Nutshell here.

Biking: The long distance Veloroute du Vignoble d’Alsace begins about 15 miles north in Marlenheim, and passes through Soulz-les-Bains, Molsheim and Dorlisheim, then proceeds south through other villages and towns in the Bas Rhin department. See the Nutshell here.

Additional Information:

Regional: http://www.ot-molsheim-mutzig.com/

Trail specific: https://www.alsaceavelo.fr/itineraires/boucles-locales/bl312-bulles-et-bugatti-118.html

Comments:

Although the bus and train network is good here, the 20.75 kilometer cycling path Veloroute du Canal de la Bruche (https://www.alsaceavelo.fr/itineraires/veloroutes-des-canaux-et-vignoble/veloroute-du-canal-de-la-bruche-23.html) is a fantastic and easy way for visitors in nearby downtown Strasbourg to reach this particular itinerary and this little visited vineyard area.

Europe, Gallery

Gallery October 2020

Gallery October 21, 2020 admin

Germany, Hiking

Of Vineyards and Villages

October 12, 2020 admin

Mankind is often hard pressed to improve upon nature. Humans leave an indelible mark on the natural world, and sometimes their efforts can enhance our experiences. In these cases, not just the natural landscape, but also the manmade landscape can appeal equally.

The Rebhisliweg itinerary focuses on manmade huts found in a beautiful, lush landscape. The circuit lies by Wagenstadt, in the Breisgau, a district of Baden. Topographically, layers of hills, some terraced, and ridgelines to the north, south and east devolve into the Black Forest, which appears as a mountain wall, capped by mixed forest vegetation. The dark greens of the fir trees, and the brilliant autumnal leaf colors add to the background. In the distant west, the majestic Vosges, turn from blue to purple as the evening approaches.

The nearby villages are compact gems, which harmonize, not distract, from nature. Set amongst vineyards, forests and fields, most buildings are only three stories at most. The red roofs set off nicely against nature’s greenery. The eye is drawn to, and then beyond, each village’s church steeple, or municipal bell tower. Each one distinct from the other, a sort of talisman for the inhabitants. The ridgelines ultimately dwarf them, but only because man’s construction draws the eye up, then away, onto that backdrop, thence to the mountain tops. They serve to unite middle and distant vistas.

At eye level, the manicured vineyards, punctuated with fields, some farmed, others fallow or reclaimed by nature, and small huts. Known as Rebhisli in the old German Alemannic dialect, they are huts for those who work the vineyards. Whether sheltering the workers, or their tools, these vintner huts still exist in Germany. They provided the inspiration for this trail’s name and itinerary. The huts dot the landscape all along the trail. Some vintners still maintain certain huts, whereas nature is slowly reclaiming others. All are picturesque in their own ways, and are often offset against the magnificent landscape.

As this hike left the village of Wagenstadt, it passed through fields before proceeding upward. As the vineyard terraces began, the air filled with the scent of crushed grapes, and fallen leaves. The harvest was mostly over, only the spaetlese or beerenauslese grapes remained, the grape leaves turning yellow.

During the first part of the hike, the views were to the west, toward the Vosges and rapidly sinking sun. In the distance lay the Alsatian town of Selestat, and vineyards, a thin yellowish line, at the foot of the Vosges, somewhere between Dambach la Ville and Scherwiller.

As the trail rounded its southern most extent, and headed north, the first views of the nearby Black Forest came into sight. Bleichheim and its solitary church steeple hove into view, but put into perspective by the massive foothills of the Black Forest behind. Tutschfelden and its distinctive steeple appeared.

Heading back toward the village, I passed a couple of wineries, (the Schaudt and the Ringwald), and more vintner huts. All nestled comfortably into the folds of this rolling terrain, and blended in effortlessly. Then just like that, from vineyard to village, I was back in Wagenstadt.

Vineyards, Fields and Forests in Breisgau

No, mankind did not outdo nature here, but came in a close second. The true merit of mankind’s efforts was housing the implements, wineries and the taverns where nature’s fruit of the vine could be harvested, produced and enjoyed with friends and neighbors.

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Breisgau

October 11, 2020 admin

What I Learned:

The Breisgau district in Germany’s Baden Wine Region has some unique topography, both manmade as well as natural. From the ancient Rhine River floodplain, you see ridgeline after ridgeline, each rising higher as it moves away from the Rhine, and toward the upper reaches of the Black Forest to the east.

The vine-covered hills, usually on the first or second ridgelines after the plain, tend to be small, but steep. Vintners have terraced many of them over time. The terraced banks provide plenty of opportunity to notice the primarily loess and sandy soils that predominate in this district.

Just south of this circuit, in vineyards near Mundingen, archeological finds attest to winemaking taking place on the left bank of the Rhine beginning in Roman times. (These sources identify areas in Alsace and the Pfalz.) On the right bank of the Rhine, winemaking can be definitively dated to the Carolingian era, around 781 A.D., in the Kaiserstuhl.

In the Breisgau, the first written mention of vineyards in nearby Koendringen (further east from the Rhine than the Kaiserstuhl district), dates to 1307, although it may be supposed that it actually occurred earlier.

In other places in the Breisgau though, viticulture is fairly recent. In Glottertal, a sign on the Rebhaeusle, an historic vintner’s hut on the Breisgauer Weinweg trail, notes that the first vineyards in the valley date from 1868.

This district produces red and white wines. Mueller-Thurgau is the most planted white varietal, followed by Rulaender (Grauer Burgunder/Pinot Gris), and then Pinot Blanc. The Pinot (Burgunder) varietals are widely planted here. In fact, according to the Weinlandbreisgau.de site, the Blauer Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir) constitutes a whopping 42.9% of all wine made in the Breisgau. Combined with the Pinot Blanc figure of 9.5% and the Pinot Gris figure of 12%, this means that the Pinots themselves constitute over 60% of all wine from this area. Not surprising considering that France is less than 30 minutes from here.

Most planted varietal in the Breisgau area around Kippenheim is the Spaetburgunder. Other areas within the Breisgau grow the red varietals of Regent (developed in 1967 in the neighboring Pfalz wine region) and Cabernet Mitos, and Riesling and Chardonnay as other white varietals. All other grapes grown constitute less than one per cent of the total.

What I Tasted:

2018 Gutedel, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Staatweingut Freiburg (Freiburg): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; mineral and slight floral nose, with slight toasted nuts and fruity flavors; medium acidity.

2018 Sauvignon Blanc, Ettenheimer Kaiserberg, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Wein und Sektgut Weber (Ettenheim): A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose of gooseberry and citrus, with gooseberry, citrus and slight spice and pear flavors; medium plus acidity, with a tart finish, well balanced and a great representative of this varietal wine.

2016 Grauburgunder, Blankenhornsberger Doktorgarten, VDP Grosse Lage, Trocken, Staatweingut Freiburg (Freiburg): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color, mineral and sweet floral nose, with white stone fruit, vanilla and floral flavors; medium plus acidity, but a very smooth finish with lingering complex flavors.

2016 Solaris, Auslese, Lieblich, Staatweingut Freiburg (Freiburg): A sweet white wine, with medium gold color; mineral, honey and floral nose, with floral, exotic fruits and bergamot flavors; low acidity.

Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Rebhisliweg: Trail in a Nutshell

October 11, 2020 admin

Trail Name: Grosse Rebhisliweg

Trail Type: A short distance circuit; well-maintained and mostly hard-packed or paved with some grassy surface; marking on the trail fairly good, but a map could be useful.

Length:

Total – 7.4 kilometers/5.2 miles

Convenient to: Freiburg, Germany

Marking: A rectangular red background with a stylized white letter W, with a stylized white hut inside it

Trail Description: A gentle hike over modest inclines with well-maintained trail surfaces through vineyards and fields with the vintner huts throughout. Great views in all directions, but especially toward the Black Forest.

Trailhead:

Herbolzheim-Wagenstadt, August Ziegler Weg, by the Evangelical church

Parking:

Herbolzheim-Wagenstadt, Im Erb or Im Weiherle

Public Transportation Options:

Rail and Bus: Herbolzheim, and nearby Kenzingen, are two of the many stations on the main north-south train route through the Rhine River Valley. DeutscheBahn (DB) has many trains serving this area, and operates buses which serve the nearby villages like Wagenstadt.

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Herbolzheim-Wagenstadt: Kenzingerstr, Brechterstal, fields, vineyards, edge of forest, vineyards, Weingut Schaudt, Kenzingerstr, Ob dem Dorf, past the cemetery, vineyards, down a slope to trailhead.

Representative Trail Photos:

Representative Trail Section in Vineyards

Restrooms:

None observed

Attractions on or near Trail:

None related to wine

Tasting along the Trail:

Three wineries are on the trail (but note hours), plus other wineries and taverns in the nearby towns Kenzingen and Malterdingen

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Nearby Ettenheim has the Weinwanderung Kaiserberg, a circuit similar in distance and landscape. See the Nutshell here.

Car: The Badische Weinstrasse, a car route of over 500 kilometers on mostly secondary roads, covers not only Wagenstadt, Bleicheim and Tutschfelden, but most of the wine villages and towns from Laudenbach, north of Heidelberg, to Weil am Rhein by Basel, Switzerland.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.schwarzwald-tourismus.info/schwarzwald/regionen/region-europa-park

Trail specific: https://www.alltrails.com/explore/map/rebhisliweg-wagenstadt

Comments:

Two trails actually, with a tiny bit of overlap, the Grosse, or long trail has red signage, and the shorter one (about 4.1 kilometers) has blue and yellow signage.

A pleasant trail, and I could recommend it for families with children of about six or seven and up.

The one grass covered surface section might not be mowed, which could be an issue in mid-summer. However, there are easily identifiable detours all around.

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