While the trail is known as Tra Santi e Vigne (Between Saints and Vines), I found the experience more analogous to being between heaven and earth. I encountered heavenly views of majestic Alps and iconic hilltop villages, and the earthly delights of the vine, not to mention the table, in this Italian paradise called Monferrato.
My journey started with the vines, lining the rim of a sun-drenched bowl. Descending into the bowl and crossing a small stream, the trail led up a road and into more vineyards, which ultimately dropped into more natural bowls. This is a hilly country, ideal for hiking and vines, not to mention castles, of which I saw several.
Clearing that first rise, the small farmhouse of San Gregorio appeared – the first of the “saints” on the trail. More inspiring though, was the appearance of the Alps, rising dramatically as wall of rock and ice, a 180-degree view of them. When I could finally tear my eyes from them, I noticed that they served as a backdrop for dozens of iconic hilltop villages. Each had its own high-rising steeple or castle tower; each was utterly dwarfed by the Alps. Hiking in Italy can provide awe-inspiring moments like this, especially in the Piedmont.
The next “saint” appeared on the opposite ridge, set along vines. The brick Chapel of San Grato is a marvelous work that seems modestly Baroque. While the inside is not open to the public, the outside patio is a lovely place to stop and admire the nearby countryside, and those awe-inspiring Alps again. Further along, a farmhouse bears a mural of the saint on its walls, and then the farmhouse and shrine of San Cristoforo. Pockets of vineyards bestrew hillsides near and far.
Dropping down into a valley, and passing through fields lining a little stream, the trail climbed into Sala Monferrato, and up to the churchyard of San Francesco. While this was the official end of the trail, more down-to-earth heavenly delights called. Making my way back to the start, I came to the winery of Marco Botto. Marco, his wife, and colleague, produce delicious wines from several varietals, white and red, still and sparkling, we tasted several and bought several of their Barbera di Monferrato. Then, based on their enthusiastic recommendation, we went to a nearby restaurant where I had one of the best meals I have ever eaten, accompanied by more delicious wine. No wonder the Monferrato is a Piedmontese heaven on earth.
