Completing the first three stages of the Fraenkischer Rotwein Wanderweg (Franconian Red Wine Trail), and breaking off at the train station in Erlenbach am Main, I intended to return to finish the trail. However, life intervened, and it took me a lot longer to return than anticipated. But the delay only heightened my desire to hike the rest of this itinerary, to see what lay hidden around the next curve.
I was especially interested in the stage from Erlenbach to Klingenberg. This part of the trail passes through steep, and in places densely planted vines. The terracing along this section of the trail, which directly faces the Main River is impressive in places. The thick stone facing seems to defy gravity, managing to hang onto the slopes. In other places, there is no terracing, yet by some miracle, the heavy old vines and trellising keep firmly upright. Part of this trail was rougher going than most other sections, yet further along the way, just before entering the town, the trail widens, and becomes a favorite local walking trail for young families and families with pets. Wine educational panels line the way, making informative reading, but only for German speakers unfortunately.
Soon, the town of Klingenberg with its castle rising high above it, came into view. It is a small town, but very popular. Its scenic little lanes, against a steep hill crowned by the castle, attract plenty of day trippers on sunny days.
From the castle, the trail heads downhill, then uphill through fields and woods. Then it follows above a lengthy stretch of vineyards before entering Grossheubach. Unlike the previous stages of the trail, the vineyards here face the Main, and are not hidden in the tributary valleys. Views up and down the Main River valley from outside Erlenbach to Grossheubach, can be expansive, and the trail is very well maintained.
Crossing the Main at Miltenberg is effected using the old bridge. On the far side, stands an impressive gate, which defended and glorified Miltenberg. The town is one of the largest, and formerly one of the most important market centers, along this section of the Main. Being particularly picturesque, with its old half-timbered buildings, narrow streets, famous churches, and historic fair, it attracts a good number of tourists. But there are plenty of restaurants, hotels and wine taverns to go around, and it makes a fun base for exploring this area.
The last stage of the trail follows the river to the small town of Buergstadt. Perhaps it is fitting that the trail ultimately ends here (after a long loop inland), as this town has a long history of wine-making as its principal business. Here too, the vines no longer face the Main, but as by the start further downriver, returns to the practice of following a tributary valley away from the Main. The last few kilometers are spent in vineyards, looking across the Erf valley, to Miltenberg and beyond.
As old patterns can repeat themselves, like the Roman, then medieval settlement of Obernburg, Buergstadt can boast an even earlier history with a Ringwall fortification dating back over 4,000 years! The Ringwall, and the Buergstadt center with its lovingly maintained medieval structures, as well as its plentiful wineries and wine taverns, offer plenty of reason to stop and celebrate the end of the trail.