Provence produces purples in abundance. From the different varietals of red (actually dark purple colored) grapes grown in the region, to the fields of lavender. Color abounds, and not just in the fields! The vibrant blues and yellows of tableware and dining linens, the luscious deep reds of the wines, the green of the olive oils are all visible in markets throughout the region.
There is joy to be found in the intense colors of nature in Provence. Hence, another hike, in yet another appellation. But, a word of caution: I went to hike in February, because in July, when the lavender is at its most resplendent, it is relentlessly sunny, and more often than not, too hot to hike or bike. (But to see the lavender, shockingly brilliant at its height, best visit in July, or at the second, more modest blooming, in September, when you might see the grapes as well!)
To hike in February is not to see the grapes or the lavender at all. Nonetheless, the sun, low in the sky in the afternoon, provides an intense color experience of its own. I began around 2 p.m., in Grignan, certainly quiet in February, albeit not colorless!
This hike began in the town itself, where soft pinks, orangey-ochres and pale yellows of the houses were complemented by the classic lavender-blue or sometimes bright green shutters. Coming to town center, stood a bigger than life statue of Madame de Sevigne. Clad in elaborate copper-green clothing of the 17th century, the statue commemorates her association with this town (through her daughter’s marriage to the Count of Grignan).
Turning left soon afterwards, fields of lavender began. While the flowers were gone, there was still a purplish tint to the plants. Meanwhile, the surrounding trees, mosses, and grasses ranged from bright to dark green. Winters are relatively mild here, and water is not lacking, to judge from the Chalerne creek.
One nice aspect of the trail was the diversity of landscape, from town, to fields, and woodlands, which represented a not inconsiderable percentage of the trail itinerary. As the trail left the woodlands and entered into open countryside, the nearby mountains became into view. At various points throughout the trail, from different perspectives and at different times, the sun bathed them alternately in a warm golden glow, or cast them in ever-changing shades of lavender.
Following along a little traveled road, toward a small settlement known as La Tuilliere, the trail came to the Domaine Montine. Until the domaine, grapevines had been few on the ground, tiny parcels tucked into discrete sheltered spots. Suddenly, there were many as the trail headed around the domaine toward the village of Mas. Then the trail entered woodland once again.
The remaining distance to Grignan was quickly accomplished, ending by circling both the base of the town, and lavender fields just outside it. I circled back through the town in search of some Appellation Grignan Les Adhemar wine, and a final view of the mountains before the sun set on the brilliant palate of scents and colors that is Grignan and its countryside.