Golden Days of Wine
From where I sat, the mellow sunlight warmly accentuated the yellow-ochre stone work, the whole harmonizing well with the light honey-colored vin jaune (yellow wine) I had in hand.
Arbois was not so much as study in contrasts, as it was a place of subtle revelations. This unassuming small town is actually renowned among certain wine circles for the unique varietals and traditional wine making processes that result in vin jaune and vin de paille (straw wine). Set in a quiet corner of eastern France, the area is not too far from Burgundy. Unlike Burgundy, Arbois is laid back, an unpretentious area that offers visitors several different attractions, albeit mostly related to wine. For me, the main attraction, aside from the wine museum and wine tasting, was a circuit hike through the hills and vineyards of this rural area.
The hike began in the town center. Is there anything like a small French town? Each one is different; yet even without a word of French, you would instantly recognize one as a French town. Like most small French towns, Arbois’ carefully designed route slowly discloses them when traipsing along the prettiest parts of the river, or strolling along the quaint, back lanes, and passing over little bridges you might not have found otherwise.
As the trail enters the vineyards, there is an unexpected glimpse of quintessential French countryside: a chateau. Climbing above the village of Mesnay, you enter the forest, and the climb leads to a route along the crest. Once on it; only the smells and sounds of nature accompany you: wild chives crushed underfoot, bees
buzzing about the blooming shrubs, birds singing unreservedly.
The distant views from the ridgeline were expansive. Because Arbois lies at the foothills of the Jura Mountains though, the views were not 360 degrees. Even so, standing there in the gentle breeze, amidst the quietude of the countryside, I felt on top of the world.
Walking down the hill into Montigny les Arsures is good for the quads. It is also another study in gold: sunlit golden stonework; Dust particles suspended in the air glint like gold in the wake of an ancient winery van rumbling down a narrow road; and more vin jaune. An older resident with his aged dog walked slowly along the path toward me. We exchanged bonjours. Chickens crossed my path, shortly after passing an impressive, albeit deserted-looking chateau. I was glad for these signs of life: Otherwise I would have thought myself in an enchanted village.
Through the vineyards and back into Arbois, the smells and sights of town life surround me: bread, stewing meat, must, and the ubiquitous wine shops. Time to stop and enjoy a glass in the sun!