“Rebland” marks the start of Ortenau’s “grape-land” south and west of Baden-Baden. This is wonderful vineyard country. From the villages of Varnhalt to Steinbach to Neuweier are some of the well-known named vineyards ranged along (usually) sunny slopes: the Altenberg, Sommerhalde, and Klosterbergfelsen by Varnhalt, the Stich den Buben by Steinbach/Umweg, and the Mauerberg and Goldenes Loch in Neuweier.

The Nellenberg is the hill rising above Varnhalt. Covered with vines, this great little town is famous locally for its wine. Rising above the Nellenberg is Yberg mountain, crowned by a castle, which has astounding and far-ranging views of this part of the Rhine River Valley. Around the other side of these hills is Neuweier, with its palace and famous vineyards.

On a fair winter midday, the Nellele trail above Varnhalt provided a very pleasant hike through the vineyards and forests above town. Vineyards here are planted on fairly steep hills. There are seeming miles of them, but the trail eventually heads away from them. I catch a glimpse of the castle on the Yberg.

 

Once past the Naegelfoerst winery, the trail levels off and enters the Black Forest. Majestically tall pines, vice short, cropped vines now dominate. The twisting trail turns into a vale. It winds its way downhill through the stillness of the woods.

 

Water tumbles down the sides of the slopes into the vale below. The Black Forest is a giant watershed for this area. Countless streams, rivulets and creeks flow into small rivers, generally on a northwest orientation, before flowing into the Rhine. Centuries ago, someone, possibly the same monks responsible introducing viticulture here, created fishponds, fed by the streams. Once at the bottom, in Gruenbachtal, they are yet there. Still waters on a windless winter day catch the reflections cast by a fading sun.

 

The short circuit is quickly closed, not far from the Roederswald Café. Its menu lists a nice selection of local wines by the glass. From its terrace, basking in the sunlight, there is a great view of the valley, and the distant Vosges mountain on a clear day. Sitting amidst the vines on the Nellenberg, sipping a delightfully flavorful local wine, is not a bad way to end this hike!