December: Often a cold month, and the month with the shortest days of the year. But along the Moselle, temperatures can be mild in December, and the short days are celebrated, as they are throughout Germany, with Christmas Markets! Anyone who has been to Germany during December knows what fun these can be.

Traditionally, Christmas Markets open at the beginning of Advent, (usually around the last weekend of November), and run until Christmas Eve. Usually set up in the town square (or squares!), they offer hand-made crafts, Christmas items (such as tree decorations, Christmas-themed table linens, nutcrackers and smoker men), live entertainment, and food and drink. Wine plays a role here too, as Gluehwein, or warm mulled wine, is a popular drink. Red or white, the Gluehwein not only helps warm chilled hands and feet, it also helps warm the heart. At Christmas Markets, Christmas cheer is evident, even if the weather can be cold.

So when a friend mentioned a Christmas Market in the Middle Moselle region, I was eager to go for three reasons. First, the name of the market, the Wein-Nachts-Markt, is a tribute to the area’s outstanding product: wein, or wine. (It is also a clever play on words of the German term for Christmas Market, Weih-nachts Markt. In German, the two are practically identical in pronunciation.) Secondly, this market was unique: it was underground. Not surprising since this wine-producing area has so many wineries, hence wine cellars. But this was Traben-Trarbach, known for its large number of extensive caves, in the heart of the town, which once was the second largest exporting port of wine in Europe after Bordeaux. Finally, Traben-Trarbach is in the Bernkastel district of the Mittelmosel wine region, which has some of the most esteemed vineyards in the region.

Then there was the trail which connects these two famous Mittelmosel wine towns. Certainly, the meandering river and river road connect the two towns. For millennia, this was the way wine merchants moved between the towns. But this popular trail also connects them via the quickest route for walkers (and bikers) being only 6.5 kilometers (about 4 miles) long. This trail also leads to the famous Eiserne Weinkarte (Iron Wine List), an iconic landmark. (More on that later.)

Starting in Bernkastel, at the old Graacher Tor (gate) leading out of the walled town, the vineyards begin immediately. In fact, they crowd the old gate, and tower overhead as you head away from the river, and up the hill. This section of the trail also serves as a wine learning trail, replete with signs explaining various aspects of wine-production in this town. Walking between the slate walls of the terraces provides a great opportunity to look at the stone which enhances the flavor of the wine here. While the dark slate can make the village seem a bit dark on a dreary day, there is no denying the positive impact it has on the wine.

 

A small chapel soon appears. It was erected in thanks for the extremely good 1921 grape harvest. It is sited at a junction of trails. In addition to having wonderful views of the river, vineyards and town, it also has a bench. It is a place to relax before continuing the push uphill to the Eiserne Weinkarte.

 

The name is given to this point because of the views of several of the most famous vineyards of the area. Hence the name: The Iron (because it’s made of iron) Wine List (wine names from those vineyards). (During most of the ascent, you can admire the Berkasteler Doctor and Graacher Himmelreich vineyards.) Along the way, a tavern of a similar name offers wine from the area. From the tavern, the trail enters woodland, as it climbs over the summit and down into Trarbach.

 

The village of Trarbach is set in a narrow valley leading from the hills to the Moselle, its vineyards rise above the houses, clinging to the steep hillsides. The trail passes houses and old wineries, many constructed of dark slate, to the river. The Moselle here is fairly wide, and a sturdy bridge with a medieval-looking gateway, leads to Traben.

 

The groups of happy revelers indicated the way to the first of several underground caves, which led to the magical experience of a Christmas Market underground. Lit mostly by fairy lights, and subdued lighting elsewhere, the atmosphere was enchanting. The stone surfaces glowed warmly in this light. Warm lighting, warm temperatures inside, and good, warm gluehwein, made for a memorable Christmas market experience.

 

One final bit of goodness about this trail is that you can return to the start point via a river cruise! (A special Advent schedule extended the otherwise April-to-November-only season.) The reasonably-priced trip between Bernkastel-Kues and Traben-Trarbach (or vice-versus) lasts a little more than 90 minutes, and majestically transports you at a relaxed pace past some of the most photogenic scenery ever.

 

A nice trail, a memorable Christmas Market, some delicious wine, and a leisurely cruise – Enjoy it and New Year’s Day in 2016!