Because I sometimes wonder whether I appreciate wine enough, innumerable tastings notwithstanding, I will occasionally take the time to hike multiple stages of some of the longer European wine trails. That is the case with the Via dei Terrazzamenti (Terrace Way) in Italy’s Valtellina wine region. Set just south of Switzerland in the Lombardy province, this Alpine region is as awesome as it is daunting. I appreciate a physical challenge, and while the trail is not as difficult as it could be, given the rugged nature of the terroir, there are literally several breath-taking ascents. These sometimes seem to climb endlessly, but rejoice in it: the higher the climb the more expansive the views. Then there are the descents that will leave your legs feeling it.

Valtellina vineyards grow on slopes so steep that they are minutely terraced in many places. Terraces of dry stonewall cost countless hours of backbreaking work, and the mountain terrain grudgingly permits a few rows of vines. They might only extend a few meters, and there might only be 6 or 7 rows. They rise up from all available sun-facing plots. I saw them ranged thus, wine production on a miniature scale.

But there is nothing miniature about the taste of these wines. Like the powerfully compelling mountains, the wine is powerful in taste, (and in alcohol), with depth and rich flavor, good length, and dramatic color. It fascinates as an expression of this dynamic area. Vineyards may be found along much of the trail, stopping outside Ardenno, just a few miles east of Morbegno. Hence opportunities to appreciate regional wines and wine-tasting at local wineries abound.

While the hike can be challenging in places along the trail, there are rewards other than wine as well. The mountain scenery is spectacular from the trail – as breath-taking as the climbs to get there. Well-maintained picnic areas, rest spots and even potable water fountainheads appear every now and then. Along with the amenities listed above, hikers will appreciate the relatively good signage, and the trails linking train stations to trail, for hikers coming by rail. This trail continues to evolve and improve – since I hiked it- and it is well laid out.

The continuation of my mid-October hike of the trail westward from Sondrio a couple of years later, showed me a slightly different wine region. I saw more wine education signboards here. This is Sassella country, arguably the best vineyard parcel in the region, and they are proud to let you know about it. The trail lead past terrace after terrace of the Sassella vineyard area, along a cliff edge, with dramatic views of the valley floor, just a step away. This part of the hike was also ideal for taking photographs of the valley and higher Alps, not always visible from the valley floor. West from Sondrio, the villages are more like hamlets, being smaller and less accommodating for tourists, (so plan ahead).

Speaking of planning, I intend to return to the region someday after this pandemic to celebrate the region and hike the section from Postalesio to Morbegno, for another adventure on the Via dei Terrazzamenti, and more Valtellina Superiore wines, of course.