Flowing over 1000 kilometers from its source in south central France, the Loire River passes through a rich variety of geological and scenic landscapes. On its northbound trajectory, on the upper half of the river, it passes Sancerre, home to a great viticultural tradition, and start point for my hike, covering this small section of France’s longest river.
Vines and valleys define Sancerre and its surroundings. Add vistas and charm, and you have an idea of this appeal of this trail. Set along a crest fronting the upper Loire River, the town, like the wine, is uniquely memorable and easy to like for all the reason above.
This trail begins (and ends) in the town, which affords two opportunities to explore it. While there is an option to begin closer to the big circuit loop in the lower end of town, it would be a shame to miss wandering through the old center. The main square truly is the center of the town, in spirit, if not geographically, and here, at the nearby tourist information office, the trail begins.
After a steep downhill section, the trail leads to an old wine cellar, and conveniently located at the start of the vineyards. But this is hardly surprising. After all, Sancerre is the name of a wine appellation that is revered by lovers of Sauvignon Blanc the world over. So, there are lots of vines, and cellars and vintner huts on view all along this trail.
In spite of its start in the town center, this trail is primarily, one might even add profoundly, rural. It follows mostly footpaths across country, through fields, woods, and of course, vineyards. The trail follows tranquil valleys, often hiding a stream whose existence is divined not by sight, but sound. Tucked into sheltered spots on the leeward sides of the slope, tuffs of wild flowers added cheerful splashes of color. As the trail crosses ridgelines, views of the vast hinterland that is central France appear.
The trail’s itinerary also provides interesting perspectives of the town of Sancerre, perched high on its ridgetop. Unfortunately, the sun was not shining that day, as I imagine that the town would gleam white in the sun. Chalk, the same vein running from the cliffs of Dover (according to online sources), is the base of the soils in this region. From the small stones underfoot, to the vintner huts, to the houses and fortifications on the hill, chalk predominates. It also showcases delicious results in the wine! As I re-entered Sancerre, chalk doubly manifested itself in the stone of the square, and the glass of wine on the palette. A great way to end this delightful hike.