Almost equidistant between Basel and Zurich, the little town of Klingnau came to my attention as the end point of a wine trail in the Aargau region. As a region, this small canton offers wine enthusiasts a surprising diversity. In addition to some good, and even some unique wines, wine culture is celebrated through festivals and learning opportunities such as wine education trails and museums.
Klingnau falls within the Upper Aargau sub-region of the Aargau wine region. Like much of the rest of the Aargau, this region lies along the Aare River. However, the hiking route began in the rolling hills to the east of the river. Because of the hilly terrain and the ample, green leaf cover this time of year, the river remained hidden from view for most of the hike. Consequently, to reach the river-side village of Klingnau, and the end of the hike, the trail covered a variety of landscapes, and several gentle ascents and descents along the way.
Swiss villages tend to be quiet affairs, and at the trailhead in Endingen, it was no different. Early on a Saturday afternoon, the shops were closed, and most people at home. Wandering through the deserted streets was a peaceful, if not surreal experience. The situation in Unterendingen, about a kilometer away, was the same.
Then the trail began to climb, wandering between the tree-line and lower fields spotted with spring flower color. Down into a draw, then climbing again to the vineyards overlooking the village of Tegerfelden, I came across the first of a couple wine education trails. As the trail meandered between them, I read the placards explaining everything from grape varietals to pruning methods. (Tegerfelden also has a wine museum just off the trail, but its limited hours meant there was no opportunity to visit it on this trip.)
This compact little village, nestles below a sharp peak, on top of which was a delightful little park. It had a fire pit, picnic tables, and plenty of benches from which to admire the views of the Aargau, and into Germany. The trail from the park lead down the peak, into another draw, along forests and meadows, to the vineyards on the Neuberg. Passing a winery on the slopes of the Neuberg, I headed for a seasonal tavern across the valley on the slope facing the vines. Unfortunately, it was closed for a special event, so continuing up the hill, the trail crested by the forest, and entered onto the slopes of the Alte Berg. This is another prominent vineyard area with a winery of the same name. As it was open for sales, I went in to buy a bottle before continuing.
After passing through woods and meadows, the trail enters into the vineyards above Doettingen. Traipsing along the open heights overlooking the town, the Aare River at last comes into view. Narrow at first, it broadens significantly as it approaches the Rhine. Its green waters, not necessarily noticeable from on high, attest to passage through limestone.
In the vineyards above Klingnau, the trail begins its final ascent through deserted streets heading toward the river. It is another tidily compact Swiss village, with a picturesque historic center. But there is loud music from the castle: a wedding reception is going on, adding a festive atmosphere to end of the trail. I’ll bet I know where the wine came from.
