Another day and another hike in France, but this one was an extraordinary outing, providing a multitude of sensory memories to savor!
Gastronomic hiking has become very popular in Alsace – and why not? Eating is one of the country’s favorite social activities: The food is excellent, the wines divine, and the company generally convivial. Alsace this season offered well over a dozen. The one I participated in, set around the attractive town of Barr, offered all three: a 7-kilometer (4 mile) hike that included flavorful Alsatian food, a variety of well-balanced local wines, and plenty of joie de vivre among the participants.
This one was developed and organized by the association of Globe-Trotters of Barr. They cleverly laid out a hiking circuit, and with every passing kilometer, set up a food and wine station. The seven stations followed a 7-course meal: beginning with an aperitif, and food to match, ending with coffee, live music, and an opportunity to socialize. Seven is also the number of varietals that may be used in wines designated as AOC (Appellation D’Origine Controllee) Alsace. So in this one event, the seven courses each showcased three local AOC wines made from all but one of the seven varietals. (While Pinot Blanc was represented in the sparkling wines, Muscat wines weren’t offered on the trail.)
From the center of the picturesque town, we made a bee-line for the first course. We had to work for our aperitif, as the hike climbed into the vineyards for about a kilometer before reaching the first station. The main attraction there was the cremant: Alsace’s sparkling wines. There were three local cremants to drink, and each was more delicious than the previous. A warm, soft, salty pretzel paired well with these delicious sparkling wines.
At this stage, it was a good idea not to load up on food or drink, as the hike continued uphill, beyond the vineyards and into the woods. Before long, we reached the soup course station. The soup served here, a delicately herbed vegetable broth, went well with three of the local Sylvaners.
The trail climbed through the woods, emerging into a large, sun-lit meadow, where the entrée was served. It was a slightly smoky and wonderfully full-flavored terrine of pork, accompanied by a shredded carrot salad, and an Alsatian-style coleslaw – cabbage dressed with vinegar instead of mayonnaise, and caraway seed. It was accompanied by Pinot Blanc wines.
With our bellies approaching full, the trail thankfully began its descent. Meandering on a narrow path through trees, our path wove its way downhill to an area set up with tables and benches in a large, airy, pine grove. The organizers were serving the plat principal, or roast course: Ham and potato salad accompanied by some of the areas Grand Cru Rieslings. (The local grand cru is Kirchberg de Barr – several local vintners produce wine from this vineyard.)
Since this is France, the following course was the cheese course, accompanied by Pinot Noir. Although Barr does not have any Grand Cru Pinot Noir, it does produce decent Pinot Noir wines, judging from the local offerings. Feasting on the cheese and fresh bread, sipping wine, in vineyards overlooking the town, provided the quintessential French experience.
A walk of less than a kilometer through vineyards brought us to the dessert station. The apple tart was a real treat: a perfect crust, light custard, and perfectly cooked apples layered on top. The Gerwurztraminer wines were a perfect complement: floral noses, not too dry. A great end to a wonderful meal, and fantastic opportunity to try the different local wines.
But wait, there’s more! The walk back down into town helped to work off calories, and enjoy the last views of the tranquil setting of vineyards and forest-covered mountains that surround Barr. At the flower-bedecked town hall, the last station, the organizers handed out coffee. In the hall’s courtyard, local musicians played a nice variety of music, to which several people danced, and the party went on. How long it went on, I am not sure, as I had to leave. But I left with memories of a fantastic experience, and hope to return next year!