Bardolino, a town with a wine named after it, is a pretty and popular town on the shores of Lake Garda, in northern Italy. One of the southern Alpine lakes, Lake Garda and Bardolino are especially crowded in the summer. But in October, it is much quieter, and the weather is cooler, yet still sunny. In other words, ideal for hiking.
East of the built up stretch along the waterfront, the land rises, and grape vines begin. The town of Costermano, set in an area of rolling ridges, was previously drive by territory for me, as I headed to the lakeside towns. Big mistake! Costermano, beyond its main street, has timeless farm villas set in quiet scenery, nice restaurants, and beautiful vistas of Alps and lake, if you know where to go. Costermano also has a trail for wine enthusiasts that provides the perfect opportunity to explore this area beyond the waterfront, where the landscape retains its bucolic setting, and grapes for Bardolino wine grow as they have here for centuries, if not millennia.
Costermano’s Giro dei Vigneti trail ranks among one of my favorites in Italy for a number of reasons. In the first place, it is marked fairly well, and it is also well-maintained. Its condition was such that even a sturdy baby carriage could go along it, allowing the whole family to enjoy this short and easy trail. Additionally, it was a circuit trail, making logistics simple: Park (or alight from the convenient bus) somewhere along the trail, and hike back to your car (or the bus stop right at the trailhead). Speaking of logistics, this trail is also advertised as a biking trail, But I hiked rather than biked the trail, coming across two other hikers, as well as a small group of cyclists along the way. In short: quiet, but not isolated, a good trail both from the actual hiking and the following-of-it perspective, and undemanding enough to be able to enjoy the beautiful natural landscape with the whole family or less active friends.
After a couple of days on the lake, the idyllic countryside proved a great tonic. While the trail starts in the center of Costermano, it very quickly reaches the manicured lushness of a peaceful German military cemetery, and the area’s well-ordered vineyards. Glimpses of the first Alps tease, as they disappear from view upon crossing over a ridge or hilltop, or upon entering a copse or small wood. I was pleasantly surprised at how much tree cover still remained in this area, and how much the trail went under or along trees. In addition to deciduous trees, there were cypress trees, standing tall and dark. The occasional olive tree or trees made noteworthy appearances here and there, olives being a challenge to grow this far north. Finally, there was the bird tree – an unusual sight to say the least.
A small religious site appeared at Villa Albare, with its old buildings and cloistered yard, just visible through the gate. I couldn’t imagine a more peaceful or lovely site to promote spiritual or self-awareness growth. More vineyards followed, soaking up the October sun. An interlude through and along trees ended at then yet another church. This was a small chapel set amidst the vines dedicated to the early Saints Fermo and Rustico. From outside the chapel apse, there was a dramatic view north to the first of the Dolomites.
After more vineyards lining a little valley, I crossed up and over a small ridge, and a magnificent view of Lake Garda began to emerge. The day was a bit hazy, and my basic camera couldn’t capture all of the glory of the blue waters, and distant mountains. But it was possible to admire the view in solitude, and enjoy an absolutely still moment in this spot.
The trail approached the start point through a small wood, before regaining the main road. As a counter to crowds and waterfront activities, Costermano’s trail, along with a glass of local Bardolino wine, provided a nice alternative, and whetted my appetite for more of each in this pleasant little town.