The town of Klausen, known as Chiusa in Italian, lies at the bottom of a river valley. The Eisack River runs from near the Austrian border to Bozen, where it joins the Etsch River. During its southward flow, it runs along the west bank of Klausen, surrounded by some of the most impressive Dolomite peaks in this area. But, key in this description is the “bottom of the Eisack river valley.” Therefore, most hikes in this area will experience some serious ascents at some point.
The circuit hike I did here, was one that went up. (This is vice along the river-where the ascents (or descents, if going from up river to down river), can be much more moderated.) One thing I have come to realize: if a trail is popular with many, it tends not to be so difficult. Additionally, if a trail follows along a way of the cross, it tends to be accessible to most mobile people. The circuit trail I followed from Klausen certainly met both those criteria.
It began in the town, the old center, filled with shops, restaurants and cafes. The Eisack River tumbles downhill on one side. Mountain slopes face the town, and others rise up behind it. In summary, it is a quaint town in a magnificent setting. Even if hiking or biking in the area is not on the agenda, Klausen, well off the mass tourism path, is worth a visit. The town, its setting, and wines alone merit a stop, especially if conveniently heading north (or south) on the Brenner Pass Road.
From the old town center, the trail went up to the castle towering over the town – the Burg Branzoll. The vineyards phase of the hike began here. Climbing up the sunny slope, the trail also followed the local church’s way of the cross. Just follow the numbers up, even if they are written as Roman numerals!
The walls surrounding the convent loomed ahead. Originally, this convent was a large and prosperous Benedictine monastery. It is still known as Kloster Saebens. It lies atop a limestone outcropping, at the one end of a narrow ridgeline. A small community of nuns still lives and worships there, so much of the monastery is off-limits to hikers.
The vineyard plots reaching the walls of the convent buildings themselves. The stations of the way of the cross continue into the convents interior yard, all the way to the church. Fortunately, the church is open to hikers (and exclusively hikers, as the only way to it is by foot). The wall paintings (frescos) are especially interesting.
The way down – or up, if you choose to go uphill counterclockwise at Castle Branzoll – is steep in parts, but still rather easy. (However, the sudden drop off is vertiginous, so those who suffer from dizziness should take care.) The views look out over the Eisack river valley, towards the breath-taking Puez-Odle peaks. This part of the hike is mostly through woods, until it returns to the castle.
Whichever direction you go, all along the way, the views are magnificent, the vineyards thriving, and the rushing river thunderous. Not the least, the wines from Klausen excellent, especially when enjoyed by the river looking up to where the mountains meet the heavens!