I have hiked many wine trails, in many different wine regions. And I have tasted many wines from those regions. But rarely does a trail combine both a wonderful hiking experience and tasting experience in one. For sheer variety of landscape, and expansive vistas of much of the southern Rhine River Valley, the Wii Wegli (dialect for: little wine trail) is a fantastic long-distance hiking experience. Located in the southwestern corner of Germany, the Markgraeflerland is a wine district in Baden’s wine region – one with excellent wines. From south (by Basel, Switzerland) to north (by Freiburg) great hiking and wine experiences awaited over every hill, and in every village.

Starting literally on the Swiss border, the adventures began with an amazing view of Basel, a city known in medieval times for its Cathedral, and prosperity. In fact, local vintners from around Weil had to supply a part of their production to the city. Today, Basel is still known mostly for its prosperity, due in large part to its busy shipping harbor.

 

As the trail headed north, Basel dropped behind the vineyard ridges, and no longer dominated the scene. Views of the 3-country land developed. Switzerland, Germany and France all share a border here, and are all defined by the river in this very international corner of Europe. This is where the Rhine swings north, and begins its route to the North Sea in earnest.

 

But it wasn’t until I reached the (significant) heights above Istein that a view of the Belfort Gap emerged that helped put so much history into place. The Vosges fall off around Mulhouse, and a broad swathe of lower land spreads west and south. On a clear, sunny day, dark green of the fir-covered mountains against blue sky contrasts with the lighter greens and straw-yellow fields of the plains. I could even see the Grand Ballon, the highest mountain of the Vosges in clear relief.

 

More intimate views were afforded on occasion as well. Rounding a draw and ridgeline, the village of Oetlingen, came into view.  The village crowns a rise. From its heights vineyards range down its sides, covering the sides of a natural bowl. As I approached, I was serenaded by church bells, celebrating a wedding. At Auggen, the village likewise appeared like an apparition from an earlier world. Here, you find one of the most esteemed vineyard parcels in the Markgraeflerland, the Auggener Schaef. This is wine country par excellence.

 

Muellheim, reached along a ridgeline covered by vineyards with impressive views of the valley, comes just north of Auggen. The contrast couldn’t be greater. Muellheim is the first large town after Weil am Rhein. It is busy with the business of wine-making, and has great establishments of all sizes serving local foods and wines. I opted instead for the smaller, neighboring village of Niederweiler. Having followed the Wii Wegli mostly through forests and remote vineyards, I wasn’t ready for town noises yet. I was certainly up for a glass of wine though, as I contemplated completing this fantastic trail someday.