In an unusual move, the local wine cooperative, the Felsengartenkellerei (FGK) in Hessigheim, has mapped several trails which pass through the vineyards supplying the grapes. I decided to hike some of the trails, and began much as you would in a wine tasting – with a white.

The Riesling Wanderweg trail had some great things going for it: a variety of landscapes to pass through, from riverside and fields, to villages and vineyards, with a bit of forest here and there. It was a clear, sunny and relatively warm winter day, with birds singing as I set out.

Soon I passed over the Neckar River. A small lock there was engaged in operations. The Neckar is relatively unknown outside Germany. It serves as a riverine thoroughfare in south-central Germany and carries a fair amount of barge traffic on it between Heidelberg and Stuttgart. Wine-lovers will appreciate that its banks are lined by vineyards for long stretches between Heilbronn and Stuttgart.

 

The trail followed the river as it looped around dramatically, providing even more opportunity to enjoy the birds, from swans to fishing birds to other birds of prey. The route was fairly well-marked to Schreyerhof, enabling me to focus on the quiet scenery. However, where it left Schreyerhof to follow along the river again, a sign was missing.  (Hint: In Schreyerhof, turn left before the “Toepferei”, following the “Wein & Obst Wanderweg 5” sign.)

Then the magic dissipated a bit. The way along the river through the nature preserve follows a narrow path, which sometimes is high above the river. As noted in the brochure, parts of this trail could be muddy. More than once I slid, catching myself before I could slide further into even more wetness. Continuing straight as I came out of the nature preserve, I followed along the river on more mud: agricultural machines pass along this pastoral stretch of the trail, and understandably chew up the wet earth.

 

Marching along, the trail reaches more vineyards, and is once again asphalted. Steep steps leading through the vines appeared on the right. The palace of Kleiningersheim came into view, set dramatically against a blue sky.

 

Then a discrepancy: one brochure indicated turning right to climb the Muhlsteig steps (all 178 of them) into the village of Kleiningersheim. However the trail sign by the steps indicated continuing straight. Going straight, the trail proceeded to Ingersheim (known as Grossingersheim on the brochure), then curved up and around the outskirts of town, entering vineyards. About 2 kilometers later it rejoined the shorter trail near the upper entrance to the Muhlsteig steps in Kleiningersheim. So take your pick….

Either way, enjoy the views from the heights of Kleiningersheim. The sleepy little village had some charms, to include a comfortable picnic and rest area just outside the castle walls. Continuing out of the village, the trail revisited to a familiar intersection of trail routes, and this time headed up a grass pathway into small garden plots then woods.

 

The mud in the woods, if anything, was worse than the mud by the river. Wellies would have come in handy. Once back on terra firma by Schreyerhof, the walk soon retraced its path over the bridge and back to the Felsengartenkellerei for a liquid treat!