This outing served my purpose well: a trip into the Franconian wine region’s Steigerwald district, to view vineyards; hike, then drink some quality wine; and do it all in under 7 hours.

Castell, a small village, far from bustling towns, but possessed of quality vineyards and a very good wine estate, fit the bill. A series of circuits meanders through its surrounding vineyards, all the while circling the tiny, picturesque village they support.

The circuits, named after the vineyards they pass through, are all short, except for one. These easy strolls lead to informative panels, only in German unfortunately, providing history and technical details of the vineyard. Quite a history it is too.

Nobles from the Frankish court first arrived here in the 8th century. The first castle on top of the hill dated to the early 9th century. Nobles enjoyed wine as much as churchmen back in the day. Vineyards have been here since at least the 13th century, and this hike leads through five of the most famous ones.

 

Along the circuits, the old (albeit not ancient!) vines, have a stocky, gnarled, appearance, like arthritic fingers pushing out of the rocky soil. Another noteworthy feature here is the lack of terraces containing the vines. Rather, they range down gentle slopes, facing this way or that, capturing the sun as best they can. This area of Franconian vineyards does not run along the Main River, thus wouldn’t have the benefit of the water’s moderating effect on ambient temperature. Therefore, most of the vineyards have a southern orientation.

The fields and vines flow around the few nearby villages. Orderly, extended plots separated in places by occasional hedgerows. The fields occupy the lower ground. The vines run up to the tree line, where the Wald (forest) part of the Steiger-wald takes over. The thick tree growth protects the vines from wind. Fields, vines and tree-covered hills, as far as the eye can see.

 

The wine estate, run today from the palace by the counts of Castell, was the real attraction for me. It sells some of the finest wines in this area, including among them: VDP Erste Lage and Grosse Lage, Spaetlese, and a Grosses Gewaechs. Best of all, the affiliated restaurant serves many of these by the glass. Accompanied by a cheese plate of local delicacies, the wines went down easily, and marked the end of a pleasant and effortless hike!