I confess – I love this town unconditionally. I have been to Beaune at least five times, and always find something new to learn. Most recently, I came across a series of hiking circuits designed to explore the immediate surroundings of Beaune, namely, its famed vineyards and wines. Reason number 123,456,789 to return.

Conveniently starting at a park at the edge of town (easily accessible from hotels in the historic part of town), I began my hike – after sitting on a bench to savor the most delicious, buttery, almond croissant ever. Sharing the trail for a bit with runners, bikers soon joined in as the trail followed part of the Veloroute Voie des Vignes through the lower (and flatter) reaches of Beaune’s vineyards. They headed south, as I began the modest climb into the vine-covered hills above Beaune. I was not alone though. Not surprisingly many people were in the vineyards tending the vines in mid-April.

Along the way up the hillside, some extremely well-preserved cabottes (vintners’ cabins) came into view. Many of them dot the hillside, some more visible than others on the uphill climb. They and the stone terrace walls made of limestone blocks, glowed golden in the sun. Previously, they served vintners as refuges and storage sites. Now, they serve as unique landmarks in this sea of grape vines.

 

The circuit on this side of the  D970 road also passes through woods, but not before offering some magnificent views toward Pommard, Meursault, and other villages and ridges south of Beaune. The distant tree-topped ridges serve as backdrops to church towers rising high above the houses jumbled around them. The ubiquitous vineyards dominate a large part of the landscape. This area of Burgundy has some of the most renowned white wines in the world, and most of the lower slopes are dedicated to vineyards. Nonetheless, it is nice to see that forested hilltops remain the rule. Between the panoramic views, the flora, and the architectural detail in town and in the fields, this was visually a pretty trail to hike along.

 

Exiting the forest, the trail crossed D970, and headed uphill to the hamlets of Les Coucherias and Sur les Greves. Quiet streets and interesting houses, both old and new, dominated until the far north end of the ridge. At one point, a look-out point offers an expansive view of Beaune and east to the Saone Valley, and a stone bench to admire it from.

 

Views of Beaune disappeared as the trail entered more peaceful woods, but reappeared on the downhill leg back into town, before disappearing again as I approached the park. From there, Beaune’s detail loomed large before me: preserved sections of the old town walls to walk upon, medieval building fronts, quiet squares lined by quaint buildings beautifully maintained.

 

While not on the Tout le Coteau circuit, Beaune’s historic center with its architectural gems is definitely worth a detour to explore and savor. As I feasted my eyes, as well, on some Cote de Beaune wines advertised on signboards, the hiking part of my itinerary came to its delicious and savory end.