Dramatic terrain, bucolic villages, and an unusual varietal wine – this was what I found in Bouzeron. It is a small village in the Cote Chalonnaise, within view of the Cote d’Or, Burgundy’s most famous hillside. But Cote Chalonnaise wines, and indeed the region itself, is no poor second. In fact, with unspoiled villages, a wealth of architecture, terrains, and good hiking trails, as well as a co-equal passion for food and wine, I was thoroughly delighted with my all-too-brief visit.
The village of Bouzeron and the Vignes et Vallees trail around it, epitomized this sentiment. There was plenty of parking in the village, so that is where I left the car, early one winter morning. Starting from the village guaranteed that I would be climbing for ten minutes or so, which helped warm me up. Before I knew it, I was atop the Montagne de la Folie (or Remenot), looking east over Rully, and out toward Chalon sur Saone. It was a beautiful spot.
Cresting the very top of this climb, was a small wood. Trees were stunted, and covered by an odd green coat of moss. It was a primeval scene direct from central casting. The trail meandered between these trees, making a sharp curve right, at the cliffs. This dramatic feature of the trail deserved some time to photograph and appreciate.
After coming down from the cliffs, the trail passed through vineyards, Later, I would hike above the arguably best parcel within the appellation, Clos de la Fortune, soaked in winter sunlight. But first, the morning fog, as atmospheric as it was, had to burn off. The dark morning became darker as I passed through a large wooded section on the way to Nantoux. While the tidy hamlet appeared ghostly and deserted in the cold fog, I knew with a glance at the old communal bread oven, that community spirit was alive and well!
After another stretch of wood, (and deciding to follow the GR 76 trail, and skip the dogleg to Bercully), came Chassey le Camp. The village earned its sobriquet “le camp” when in 1865, archeologists discovered a Neolithic site dating to at least 4,500 years B.C., (which the trail passes if coming from Bercully). After the traversing the heights above Chassey, the trail descends into Valotte, and back into vineyards.
One more ascent over the ridgeline separating this valley from Bouzeron, but the reward was a wonderful view toward Cote de Beaune, the southern half of Cote d’Or. World famous wines come from the towns I could see. Bouzeron, with its unique appellation and varietal I knew to be just as appealing though, and I eagerly anticipated my return, after a couple more kilometers of hiking. Once down from the hill, clearing the wood line, the village situated on the side of a slope, came into view. So did signs for its wineries. Passing the last few meters of vines, I realized that I, and most of the Aligote grapes, were all headed in the same direction: through great terroir, to a timeless village, and quality wines.
