Category Archives: Wines

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Breisgau

 

What I Learned:

The Breisgau district in Germany’s Baden Wine Region has some unique topography, both manmade as well as natural. From the ancient Rhine River floodplain, you see ridgeline after ridgeline, each rising higher as it moves away from the Rhine, and toward the upper reaches of the Black Forest to the east.

The vine-covered hills, usually on the first or second ridgelines after the plain, tend to be small, but steep. Vintners have terraced many of them over time. The terraced banks provide plenty of opportunity to notice the primarily loess and sandy soils that predominate in this district.

Just south of this circuit, in vineyards near Mundingen, archeological finds attest to winemaking taking place on the left bank of the Rhine beginning in Roman times. (These sources identify areas in Alsace and the Pfalz.) On the right bank of the Rhine, winemaking can be definitively dated to the Carolingian era, around 781 A.D., in the Kaiserstuhl.

In the Breisgau, the first written mention of vineyards in nearby Koendringen (further east from the Rhine than the Kaiserstuhl district), dates to 1307, although it may be supposed that it actually occurred earlier.

In other places in the Breisgau though, viticulture is fairly recent. In Glottertal, a sign on the Rebhaeusle, an historic vintner’s hut on the Breisgauer Weinweg trail, notes that the first vineyards in the valley date from 1868.

This district produces red and white wines. Mueller-Thurgau is the most planted white varietal, followed by Rulaender (Grauer Burgunder/Pinot Gris), and then Pinot Blanc. The Pinot (Burgunder) varietals are widely planted here. In fact, according to the Weinlandbreisgau.de site, the Blauer Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir) constitutes a whopping 42.9% of all wine made in the Breisgau. Combined with the Pinot Blanc figure of 9.5% and the Pinot Gris figure of 12%, this means that the Pinots themselves constitute over 60% of all wine from this area. Not surprising considering that France is less than 30 minutes from here.

Most planted varietal in the Breisgau area around Kippenheim is the Spaetburgunder. Other areas within the Breisgau grow the red varietals of Regent (developed in 1967 in the neighboring Pfalz wine region) and Cabernet Mitos, and Riesling and Chardonnay as other white varietals. All other grapes grown constitute less than one per cent of the total.

 

What I Tasted:

2018 Gutedel, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Staatweingut Freiburg (Freiburg): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; mineral and slight floral nose, with slight toasted nuts and fruity flavors; medium acidity.

2018 Sauvignon Blanc, Ettenheimer Kaiserberg, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Wein und Sektgut Weber (Ettenheim): A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose of gooseberry and citrus, with gooseberry, citrus and slight spice and pear flavors; medium plus acidity, with a tart finish, well balanced and a great representative of this varietal wine.

2016 Grauburgunder, Blankenhornsberger Doktorgarten, VDP Grosse Lage, Trocken, Staatweingut Freiburg (Freiburg): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color, mineral and sweet floral nose, with white stone fruit, vanilla and floral flavors; medium plus acidity, but a very smooth finish with lingering complex flavors.

2016 Solaris, Auslese, Lieblich, Staatweingut Freiburg (Freiburg): A sweet white wine, with medium gold color; mineral, honey and floral nose, with floral, exotic fruits and bergamot flavors; low acidity.

 

 

 

 

 

Switzerland, Wines

Wine Notes: Basel Landschaft

 

What I Learned

Switzerland does indeed have vineyards, and produces its own quality wines under a system similar to the French appellation system. Only about two percent of all Swiss wine is exported, and most of that to neighboring Germany. Furthermore, the largest and best-known vineyard areas are in southern Switzerland, in the Cantons of Valais, Vaud and Ticino. Less well known are the wines of the Deutschschweiz, or German Switzerland, in the northwest corner of Switzerland.

The cycling itinerary I followed traversed vineyards in the Basel-Landschaft Canton, and the Aargau Canton, in the northwest corner of the Deutsche Schweiz. Like many places north of the Alps, viticulture in this part of Switzerland arrived with the Romans, and picked up again as Christian monasteries took root in the area. This whole history is neatly encapsulated in two towns lying side by side: Basel-Landschaft’s Augst, formerly the Roman colony of Augusta Raurica, with a large Roman era archeology site today; and the Aargau’s Kaiseraugst, an imperial stronghold and site of a monastic foundation in the medieval era.

Within the Deutschschweiz, there are several appellations, often named after the cantons. Both the Aargau and Basel-Landschaft cantons produce wines, which are bottled under eponymous appellations, albeit on a smaller scale than other Deutschschweiz cantons, like Schaffhausen or the Graubuenden. Both produce predominately red wines, as Pinot Noir is one of the primary red grapes grown here. Only about one third of the grapes are white, mostly Chasselas and Pinot Gris.

While there are plenty of vineyards, there were few wineries on the ground to visit (only about six along the whole route). As is often the case in smaller wine-producing regions, the local grapes are often vinified in a nearby cellar that will produce wine from the harvests of small, independent vineyards.

 

What I Tasted

2017 Blanc de Noir, Trocken, AOC Basel Landschaft, Siebe Dupf Kellerei (Liestal): A dry red grape (Pinot Noir) wine, vinified white; with pale gold color, fruity nose with ripe berry fruit flavors; very smooth, velvety mouthfeel, pure fruit flavor shines through with virtually no tannins or acidity TDA

2017 Pinot Noir, Maispracher Pinot Noir, Trocken, AOC Basel Landschaft, Siebe Dupf Kellerei (Liestal): A dry red wine with medium ruby red color; nose of vanilla and cherry and flavors of the same; medium tannins

 

 

 

Germany, Wines

Wine notes: Pfalz’s Suedliche Weinstrasse

 

What I Learned:

The Pfalz Wine Region has a long history of wine making. The pressing room and vats at the Weilberg Roman Winery (Römische Weingut Weilberg), near Bad Duerkheim, and the implements found throughout various sites all along the Deutsche Weinstrasse, testify to this long history.

The tradition continued with the establishment of regional monasteries, such as the ones in Klingenmuster and Wissembourg dating to the 600s. This was especially true along the Pfalz’s Suedliche Weinstrasse.  Wissembourg was a rich and powerful monastery in its day. In today’s Edesheim, the abbey owned the “Villa Auduino,” which consisted of an agricultural manor house and two churches. In Nussdorf, the Monastery of Fulda (far to the north) owned its own manor house. These places were important to the monks, not just for providing food products, but also for their wines, which they needed for liturgical services.

Hence, in the Suedliche Weinstrasse district, winemaking has been an important economic activity for about 2000 years. Not only has this area had an uninterrupted history of winemaking, it also continues to modify and improve its traditions over time.

Siebeldingen’s Institut fuer Rebenzuechtung (Institute for Grape Cultivation) Geilweilerhof (the building itself a former cloister) is an invaluable resource in this regard. The institute maintains databases on grape varietals, and has test cellars to make and test wines from new varietals. This all supports its main function: to develop new varietals, genetically resistant to climatic changes and pests.

Some of its older creations will be familiar to lovers of German wines: the white varietals of Morio-Muskat and Bacchus, and the red varietals of Domina and Regent (two of the most flavorful and powerful German red wines, IMHO). One of the newest grapes to come onto market as wine is the white Calardis Blanc, a cross between a Bacchus and Seyval Blanc, and a Seyve Villard. (Finding a bottle will be a challenge for a few years to come, so head to the Institute’s wine shop in Siebeldingen for now!)

Over 125 varietals are planted in the Pfalz wine region, to include the ones listed above! But only half a dozen or so make up over 60 percent of the plantings.  Riesling has always played an important role, but more so in the northern part of the Pfalz wine region. Mueller Thurgau is also an important white varietal, especially so in the south. Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) is another white wine grape that is planted here, although in far smaller quantities. As for the red varietals, there is Dornfelder, the most widely cultivated red wine grape locally. As a percentage of red wine grapes grown, it has overtaken the traditional favorite: Portugieser.  Spaetburgunder, aka Pinot Noir, represents a full 7% of the grapes planted, and is gaining in popularity.

 

What I Tasted:

2017 Gruener Silvaner, Ortswein, Trocken, Weingut Voegeli (Wollmesheim): A dry white wine with a medium yellow gold color; a mineral nose, with herbal, grass, spice and slight pear flavors; medium acidity, with a tangy finish.

2017 Chardonnay, Lagewein, Trocken, Weingut Voegeli: A dry white wine with a medium white gold color; a peach, honey and mineral nose, with peach, pear and floral flavor; medium acidity, with a smooth finish.

2016 Riesling, Lagewein, Trocken, Weingut Voegeli: A dry white wine with a medium gold color; a slight mineral and turpentine nose, with spice and green apple flavors, medium plus acidity, with a crisp, tart finish.

2012 Weissburgunder Sekt: Weingut Wilhelmshof, (Siebeldingen): A sparkling white wine with lively, persistent perlage and medium gold color; a powerful fruity nose, with powerful fruity grape and white stone fruits flavors, a medium and sweet finish.

 

 

 

 

 

France, Wines

Wine Notes: Condrieu

 

What I Learned

Three great Appellations d’Origine Controlee (AOC) begin about 20 miles south from Lyon. They are, from north to south, the famous Cote Rotie, Condrieu, and St Joseph. In these AOC, the Syrah and the Viognier varietals reign supreme.

Condrieu is a small town, and the vines of its appellation are sandwiched between the Cote Rotie appellation, and the Saint Joseph appellation, While the Cote Rotie is famous for its red wines, Condrieu is famous for its white wines. And while the Saint Joseph appellation is the largest in this part of the northern Rhone, the Condrieu appellation is one of the smallest in the region.

This appellation covers only about 260 hectares, and only six other communes (Chavanay, Limony, Malleval, Verin, Saint Michel sur Rhone, and Saint Pierre de Boeuf), most of which are considerably smaller than Condrieu. Encircled by this appellation is one of the smallest appellations in France: Chateau Grillet.

The white Viognier grape is the sole varietal for the Condrieu and Chateau Grillet appellations. This varietal produces delicious, full bodied and full-flavored wines that are perfumed treasures for white wine lovers. Only about 6000 hectoliters are produced each year in the Condrieu appellation. (And unless you have very deep pockets, you can forget about including a bottle of Chateau Grillet, with its even smaller production, in your collection of appellation Viognier wine from this area.)

Granitic soils predominate here, unlike the limestone and calcareous soils in so many other non-Rhone Valley appellations. The unique substrata in the northern Rhone area forced the river to carve its way south. The valley here is rather narrow and twisting (and quite picturesque), resulting in numerous vineyards with steep south facing exposures – great for soaking up sun and retaining heat!

 

What I Tasted

2016 Viognier, AOP, Domaine Louis Clerc: A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose of spice, green wood; and flavors of spice, wood, and vanilla; medium acidity, smooth aromatic finish.

2016 Viognier, Resurgence, Appellation Condrieu Protegee, Xavier Mourier (Chavanay): A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose of spice, green wood; and flavors of spice, wood, vanilla; medium acidity, smooth aromatic finish

2016 Viognier, La Berne, Vieilles Vignes, Appellation Condrieu Controlee Domaine Lionel Faury (Chavanay): A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose is fruity and slightly floral, with white stone fruit and vanilla flavors; medium plus acidity, with a smooth medium length finish.

2016 Viognier, La Berne, Appellation Condrieu Controlee Domaine Lionel Faury: A dry white wine with medium gold color; a mineral and slightly floral nose, with floral, clove, oak, and vanilla flavors; medium acidity and length

2016 Viognier, Les Rouelles, Appellation Condrieu Controlee, Gilles Flacher (Charnas): A dry white wine with medium gold color; spice and smoky nose, with floral, spice and smoky flavors; high acidity, but a relatively smooth finish.

 

 

 

 

 

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Wuerttemberg’s Stromberg

 

What I Learned

Wuerttemberg is a large and diverse wine region in Germany. It stretches from the north at Bad Mergentheim (only 25 miles south of Wuerzburg) then south to Lake Constance; from the east by Lindau, to the west, just north of Pforzheim. It has several main districts, (Bereich Kocher-Jagst-Tauber; Wuerttembergisch Unterland; Bereich Remstal-Stuttgart; Bereich Obere Neckar and two small areas on the Bodensee (Lake Constance), one part of which is technically in the German state of Bavaria). Within a couple of these districts, several major growing zones exist.

Throughout this south-central German region red varietals tend to predominate.  Most people are surprised to learn that, given that Germany is famous for its Riesling wines. But more surprising to me, given the region’s climate, is that red varietals do especially well here. In fact, several varietals are almost unique to this region, in that they can’t easily be found elsewhere in Germany, or even the world. These include the Lemberger and the Trollinger varietals. The light Trollinger is a special Swabian favorite in the summer, when it is often served slightly chilled. But on the other hand, it is also often blended with Lemberger,  a heartier red wine. Two other varietals, both hearty reds, include Dornfelder and Acolon (my personal favorite), both developed at the nearby State Education and Research Institute for Viticulture and Pomology (Staatliche Lehr- und Versuchsanstalt für Wein- und Obstbau) in Weinsberg, just outside Heilbronn.

Wuerttembergisch Unterland is the name of the wine district north of Stuttgart and the Rems River. It includes Marbach and Benningen facing each other on opposite sides of the Neckar. Then Hoheneck (part of Ludwigsburg) and its counterparts on the opposite shore, Neckarweiher and Poppenweiler. The northern part of this district reaches Heilbronn’s northern suburbs.

This post covers a small zone in the middle of the Wuerttembergisch Unterland district, the Stromberg wine zone. Located south of Heilbronn, and west of the Neckar, dominated by the Stromberg mountain range, which combined with the Heuchelberg mountain range, (yet another wine zone in the Wuerttembergisch Unterland), forms an extensive nature park. Not surprisingly, both the Stromberg and the Heuchelberg zones are in the area known as the land of 1000 hills. The hills are perfect for planting vineyards!

Kirchheim am Neckar, Erligheim, Bonnigheim, Freudental, Loechgau, Hofen, Ochsenbach, Guendelbach, Horrheim, Hohenhaslach, and south to the Enz River, form part of the Stromberg zone. This area is distinct from some of the vineyards directly on the Neckar River, such as in parts of Walheim. Being further away from the river results in a slightly cooler climate in the winter, and warmer in the summer. Some of the locally renowned named vineyard parcels include the Kirchberg, Sonnenberg, and Lerchenberg.

 

What I Tasted

2016 Riesling Boennigheimer Sonnenberg, Trocken, QbA, Weingaertner Stromberg Zabergaeu (Boennigheim): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; nose of spice, floral, grass, and slightly fruity, with spice, floral and grass flavors; a medium plus acidity with a tart finish.

2016 Riesling, Trocken, Weingut Mayer (Erligheim): A dry white wine with medium plus gold color, green grape, chalk and slight citrus nose, with grape, spice, and slight gooseberry flavors; medium acidity, with a crisp finish.

2016 Lemberger, Spaetlese, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Weingut Funk, (Loechgau): A dry red wine with medium ruby color; honeysuckle, and dried cherry nose with a hint of tobacco, with vanilla, honey, floral, and red berry flavors; medium tannins.

2015 Lemberger, Boennigheimer Sonnenberg, Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Weingaertner Stromberg Zabergaeu: A dry red wine with dark garnet color; cherry, and green wood on the nose, with sweet cherry, vanilla, and vegetal flavors; medium tannins.

2014 Regent, Spaetlese, Trocken, Weingut Mayer (Erligheim): A dry red wine with dark garnet color; jammy grape, and brioche nose, with ripe grape, smoke and vanilla flavors, medium minus tannins, very smooth

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Italy, Wines

Wine Notes: Italy’s Val d’Aosta

 

What I Learned:

Valle d’Aoste (Aosta Valley) is in the northwest corner of Italy, where Italy, France and Franco-phone Switzerland meet. It is an autonomous region with a heavy French influence. This influence, and of course earlier Roman settlement in the region, means that wine and wine production figure heavily in local culture. Being not only in the north, but also at a rather high elevation, wine-making is a challenge. But it is one that local winemakers have accepted, especially those vintners close to the French border, whose vineyards lie at altitudes greater than 1000 meters above sea level. (In fact, these vineyards lying below Mount Blanc (itself over 4800 meters above sea level), claim to include the highest vineyard in Europe.) While there are other contenders to that title elsewhere in Europe, there can be no doubt that Val d’Aosta winemakers work in seriously mountainous terroir.

While winemaking in such mountainous terrain is not commonplace, it is hardly unique. What is unique however may be found in the high number of native grape varieties. Both red and white varietals grow here, and thrive in the local conditions.  The paragraphs below list some of the varietals, both red and white, that are native to the Aosta Valley.

The red varietal Fumin is widely cultivated throughout the central part of the Aosta Valley. Judging from the variety of Fumin Aosta DOC wines on offer, this grape produces a popular varietal wine. Cornalin is another local red varietal, which also produces an Aosta DOC varietal wine. Just over the mountains in the Swiss canton of Valais, the same grape is called Humagne Rouge. Italian vintners cultivate this varietal much less extensively than their Swiss counterparts though.

However, the most widely cultivated local varietal is the Petit Rouge in the Aosta Valley. Second place in terms of hectares cultivated goes to the Vien de Nus, a varietal named after its alleged place of origin. A minimum of 70% of Petit Rouge must be present in the Aosta DOC red wine, Torrette. Vien de Nus may be added to a Torrette cuvee, but it is never vinified as a varietal wine.

The early maturing Mayolet, almost extinct, has been rediscovered. It may be vinified as a varietal wine, a rare find, or may be added to the Torrette DOC blend.

In contrast, there is only one white varietal native to the valley. The Prie Blanc, also known as the Blanc de Morgex, is capable of maturing in some of the most elevated Valdostan vineyards. It is, as it would have to be, resistant to frosts and cold. Planted in some of the highest vineyards in Italy, it is not unusual to find that vintners make sparkling and sweet wines with this grape, although varietal wines are also produced.

 

What I Tasted:

2016 Pinot Gris, Valle d’Aoste Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Cave Gargantua (Gresson): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; a citrus and peach nose, with peach, nuts and vanilla flavors; medium minus acidity, with a smooth, full-bodied finish.

2015 Fumin Barrique, Valle d’Aoste Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Cave des Onze Communes (Aymavilles): A dry red wine with dark ruby color; nose of spice, smoke and oak, with vanilla, dried cherry and red berry flavors; high tannins, with a smooth finish.

2015 Torrette Superieur, Valle d’Aoste Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Cave des Onze Communes (Aymavilles): A dry red wine blend (Petit Rouge 80%, Fumin 10-15%, Mayolet and Cornalin 5-10%) with dark garnet color; dried red berry nose, with dried red berry, blackberry, oak and vanilla flavors; medium tannins and a long, smooth finish (TDA)

2014 Petite Arvine, Valle d’Aoste Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Feudo di Maurizio (Serre): A dry white wine with medium gold color; mineral nose, with spice, wood, honey and mustard flavors; medium acidity.

Blanc Fripon, Valle d’Aoste Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Quatre Mille Metres (Chambave) with Cave Mont Blanc de Morgex et La Salle (Morgex): A dry, spumante white wine (Prie Blanc 65%, Mueller Thurgau 35%) rather still, with a light gold color; floral and fruity nose, with floral and sweet apple flavors; medium acidity.

 

 

 

Germany, Wines

 Wine Notes: Franconian Saale

 

What I Learned

The Maindreieck is a triangle of land surrounded on three sides by the Main River. The Main is a tributary to the Rhine. The river makes three dramatic curves close to the heart of Franconia, forming this “peninsula,” this triangle of land surrounded by the river as a paragon of viticulture in south central Germany.

While the riverine wine towns and villages form the most well-defined area of the Maindreieck wine district, i.e., Wuerzburg, Randersacker, Sommerhausen, Volkach, there are two lesser known wine-producing areas in this district. Both of them follow along valleys with smaller rivers, the Wern and the Fraenkische Saale. These two are tributaries entering the Main River at Schweinfurt and Gmuenden am Main respectively.

Bavaria’s northern most vineyards lie along the Fraenkische Saale – a river flowing from close to the Bavaria – Thuringen border to the Main by Gemuenden am Main. In wine speak, that would be from the Maindreieck border to the Mainviereck border in the Franconian Wine Region.

The wines produced along the Fraenkische Saale and its tributaries are the northern-most wine-producing area in Franconian Bavaria. The town of Hammelburg is known as Franconia’s oldest wine town. In 777, Charlemagne, who held a small fortress settlement on this site, donated the site and its lands to the Abbey of Fulda, some 40 miles north. Wine production for the abbey, founded about 30 years earlier, used the south facing, limestone-based slopes, overlooking the Fraenkische Saale, to grow grapes for wine. Over time, grapes also grew in neighboring settlements, and up side valleys. The Abbey built a cellar-palace, which the abbot used as a summer residence. At its height in the 18th century, the cellar stored almost three-quarters of a million liters of wine. Today the complex belongs to the major Franconian cooperative GWF. However, there are also a dozen or so independent wineries. Overall, about 70 local farmers/viticulturists grow grapes for local wine production.

The major Franconian grape varietals grow in this sub-district. Not surprisingly, they are the hardy, cold-resistant varietals. listed below.

Silvaner: This varietal has been grown in the Franconia area since the 17th century, and is one of the more important varietals for this particular area. Many locals prefer it over Riesling. For more information on Silvaner, see Wine Notes: Franconia’s  Silvaner here.

Mueller-Thurgau: This hybrid varietal is also known as Rivaner, and produces a light, fruity wine. In Franconia, it is currently more widely planted than Silvaner.

Riesling: Riesling wine is the most planted varietal in Germany, but less so in Franconia. Here, true to form, many Riesling wines take on a mineral flavor determined by the soil.

Bacchus, a Silvaner-Riesling cross with a Mueller Thurgau, has only been around as a wine for about 50 years, and has been especially successful in Franconia.

 

What I Tasted

2018 Bacchus, Halbtrocken, Q.b.A., Weingut Mueller (Hammelburg): An off-dry white wine with a medium golden gold color; a fruity nose, with citrus and hints of gooseberry, and with gooseberry, apricot, and slight lemon flavors; medium minus acidity, with a smooth finish.

2018 Silvaner, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Neder (Ramsthal): A dry white wine with medium plus gold color; a nose of spice and green apple, with spice, green apple, citrus and slight floral flavors; medium acidity with a refreshing tart finish

2017 Silvaner, Hammelburger Heroldsberg, Trocken, Kabinett, Weingut Mueller: A dry white wine with medium lemon-yellow color; a slightly spicy nose, with green apple, spice and slight honey flavors; medium plus acidity with a tart medium length finish.

2017 Silvaner, Hammelburger Heroldsberg, Trocken, Kabinett, Weingut Mueller: A dry white wine with medium gold color; green apple and floral nose, with flavors of the same; medium acidity, with a tart finish.

Austria, Wines

Wine Notes: Austria’s Suedsteiermark

 

The Steiermark is a wine region in the southeast corner of Austria. It is called Styria in English. The Steiermark lies just north of the Slovenian Alps, and east of the Austrian ones. Within this political and wine entity, there are three wine sub-regions. (See the red lines of the photo of the map above.)

-The easternmost, the Suedoststeiermark lies closest to Hungary, from where gets some of its climatic influences. Its topography is moderately hilly in most places, and as the name for one of its districts implies, was formerly covered by volcanos, hence the denomination name “Vulkanland”.

-Then there is the Weststeiermark. It is known by Austrian wine-lovers, and promoted by the local tourism industry, as Schilcher-land, home to a rose wine of the same name.

But this blog post is about the southernmost sub-region of the Steiermark, the Suedsteiermark. This relatively small sub-region shares a long border, as well as a tradition of viticulture, with Slovenia. Lying just north of the Slovenian border, it is located in very high hill region, if not a mountainous one, with steep sided slopes, interspersed with deep, narrow valleys. (Think roller-coaster ride, which it sure felt like in a car, and you have the general idea.) Kitzeck, one of the leading wine villages in Suedsteiermark, claims the distinction of being Europe’s highest wine village. The weather here, though, is similar to that of Tuscany. (Hence, it is sometimes referred to as the “Styrian Tuscany.”)

Viticulture in the Suedsteiermark focuses only on a few varietals, predominately white. Morillon, known as Chardonnay elsewhere, is grown here, and along with Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Blanc. These three varietals are readily recognized by most wine drinkers. However, two white varietals, and resulting wines, are rather unique to this area.

The Welschriesling (not related to Riesling at all), is a late ripening grape. Because of the Tuscan-like climate in this district, it can sometimes be harvested late for trockenbeerenauslese wines. This dried berry harvest occurs later than the regular harvest, when the berries literally dry up and shrivel on the vine before being picked. Therefore, these berries will produce a sweet wine when picked late, in spite of their natural acidity. Otherwise, the Welschriesling varietal produces a light, somewhat dry wine that is meant to be drunk young.

Another unusual variety and its wine is called Saemling. It is known as Scheurebe elsewhere in the Germanic wine-world. While it can be rather fruit-forward on the palate, it can also have a backbone of acidity to it. These wines will keep. It also makes a decent sweet wine.

 

What I Tasted

2018 Sauvignon Blanc, Qualitaetswein aus Oesterreich, Weingut Schneeberger (Heimschuh): A dry white wine with dark minus gold color, gooseberry and citrus nose, with flavors of the same; medium minus acidity.

2018 Welschriesling, Oesterreichischer Landwein, Weinbau Koschak (Kitzeck): An off-dry white wine with medium gold color; a tart green apple nose, with green and red apple flavors; medium acidity

2017 Welschriesling, DAC Suedsteiermark, Pichler-Schober (Mittereck/St Nikolai in Sausal): An off-dry white wine with medium minus gold color; a green apple and wet stone nose, with green apple and raw almond flavors; medium plus acidity, with a clean crisp finish.

 

Italy, Wines

Wine Notes: Italy’s Eisacktal

 

What I Learned

The Eisacktal district is one of several denominated wine districts of the Suedtirol wine region. The Eisack river is named Isarco in Italian, and the valley it created over the millennia is one of northern Italy’s main north-south routes. The district is located in north-central Italy, just south the Brenner Pass connecting Italy and Austria. It has less than 400 hectares devoted to vineyards. The vineyards exist at lower elevations than the pass, and are usually in relatively sheltered places with good exposure to the sun. (After all, we are talking about an area distinguished primarily by the Alps and Dolomites.) Some of the best vineyards are on the slopes south (and below) Saebens, an ancient monastery, rising above Klausen. About 90% of the wine from here is white wine. Sylvaner (yes with a Y here), Kerner and Gewuerztraminer) with the remainder a red blend (permitted varietals include Vernatsch/Schiava Grossa, Blauer Portugieser, Pinot Noir) called Klausner Laitacher.

 

What I Tasted

2017 Sylvaner “Aristos” Eisacktal DOC, Eisacktaler Kellereigenossenschaft, (Klausen): A dry white wine with medium plus gold color; a fruity, spicy and mineral nose, with vanilla and gooseberry flavors; medium plus acidity.

2017 Kerner “Aristos” Eisacktal DOC, Eisacktaler Kellereigenossenschaft, (Klausen): A dry white wine with medium plus gold color; vanilla, mango and peach nose, with licorice, peach and vanilla flavors, medium plus acidity.

2017 Veltliner, Eisacktal DOC, Eisacktaler Kellereingenossenschaft (Klausen): A dry white wine with light gold color; peach and spice nose, with peach, apricot and vanilla flavors; medium acidity.

2016 Zweigelt “Z”, IGT, Eisacktaler Kellereigenossenschaft, (Klausen): A dry red wine with dark garnet color; spice and dark cherry nose, with flavors of the same; medium tannins.

2016 Caruess Mitterberg Weiss, IGT, Weingut Roeck (Villanders): A dry white wine cuvee (Gewuerztraminer (about 50%), Pinot Grigio and Sylvaner), with medium plus gold color; chalk and slight floral nose, with white fruits, spicy, slight vanilla and oak flavors

2014 Zweigelt Mitterberg Caruess, IGT, Weingut Roeck (Villanders): A dry red wine with medium plus ruby red color; smoke and violet nose, with vanilla, tobacco and dark cherry flavors; medium plus tannins.

 

 

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: German Ahr Wine Region

 

What I Learned

Germany’s Ahr Wine Region, almost 50 kilometers north of the Moselle at Koblenz, is the Rhineland-Palatinate’s northern-most wine region, though it is not Germany’s northern most wine region. (That honor goes to the Saale-Umstrut region in Saxony.)  But it is the furthest north red wine region in Germany. Until seen, it would be hard to credit that red varietals could ripen well enough this far north. But the vines grow on steep, mostly south-facing slopes of volcanic rock, along a very narrow valley that runs (in a very serpentine fashion) from west to east. Nature and geologic activity have combined to create some ideal conditions for red varietals here, with volcanic stone soils in the western end of the valley, and loess soils in the eastern end of the valley, as it approaches the Rhine.

With only about 560 hectares, it is one of the smallest wine regions in Germany. Red wine predominates, with about 540 of those 560 hectares dedicated to red varietals. Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir) is the most widely planted varietal, but Domina, Regent, as well as Dornfelder and Portugieser, are other red varietals that are widely planted throughout the Ahr valley. The red Fruehburgunder varietal is a regional specialty.

Wine making has historically been a cooperative affair here. Kloster Marienthal, founded in 1137, has a long history of wine-making. As the name implies, it was formerly a monastery, which needed wine for its services. Abandoned for over 100 years, it became the state wine domain in 1925. A near-by wine cooperative (winzergenossenschaft) claims to be the oldest wine cooperative in the world. The Mayschoss-Altenahr cooperative was founded in 1868 with 18 vintner members, now boasts about 420!

One final word about the wines here: It is especially difficult to find Ahr wine outside the region!

 

What I Tasted

2016 Spaetburgunder, Blanc de Noir, Trocken, Deutsche Qualitaetswein, Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss Altenahr: A dry red wine vinified white, a light medium gold color with a slight tinge of pink; floral nose, with floral, vanilla and slight ripe peach flavor, very smooth overall.

2015 Rose, Heimat, Trocken, Deutschen Qualitaetswein, Josten Klein: A dry red wine (Spaetburgunder) with dark salmon pink color; floral and red berry nose, with berry and mineral flavors; very mild tannins.

2015 Spaetburgunder, Ahr-Rose, Trocken, Qualitaetswein bA, Weingut Meyer-Naekel, VDP (Dernau): A dry rose wine with pink grapefruit color, floral and sweet berry nose, with flavors of the same; slightly tart, with no appreciable tannins.

Sekt, Cuvee CK, Brut, Winzerhof Koertgen (Ahrweiler): A dry, sparkling wine cuvee (Pinot Noir, Weissburgunder, Chardonnay), with medium gold color and lively bubbles; slight floral and yeast notes on the nose, with fruity and bread flavors; medium acidity.