Category Archives: Italy

Top Three Winecountry Hikes

January 11, 2021 admin

With COVID 19-related travel restrictions and lockdowns, everybody’s ability to travel has made hiking and biking in Europe difficult, and impossible for me in 2020. So this month, I have decided to focus on some of my favorite hiking adventures. I will explain why I favor these adventures over some of the others, and let the photographs speak for themselves. You will note that sometimes the photos are taken in different seasons, and that is because I so enjoyed these wine regions (and their wines), I revisited them more than once. And I fervently hope that hikers, including myself, can travel to these areas in 2021!

1. The Place: Italy: Valtellina

The Activity: Hiking (or mountain-biking!) the 70-kilometer-long Via dei Terrazzamenti

Why this one: This moderately challenging hike offers absolutely stunning Alpine scenery, with several villages or hamlets to explore along the way, and diverse agricultural landscapes just to provide variety. The trail was moderately challenging, as there were several steep and relatively long inclines, but they were punctuated by relatively flat stretches, and even some descents. The scenery can speak for itself, and the villages and hamlets were quiet, charming, unspoiled locations in which to take a break, and enjoy the atmosphere. Sondrio is about in the middle, and a good place to base from, and makes a good place to break the hike until the next day. While I loved the fantastic Sentiero Valtellina bicycle trail (see details here) which parallels this trail, albeit along the north-facing side of the river valley, the Via dei Terrazzamenti won out because it was higher up, and on the south-facing mountains, thus passing through more vineyards.

Caveats: The quiet location means you might be challenged to find accommodation to your liking. It’s not that they didn’t have several nice hotels in Sondrio, Tirano and Morbegno. It is just that if you are looking for a resort, or even a five-star hotel, there won’t be any (as of January 2021).

Winning Wine Discovery: In Valtellina, the Nebbiolo grape is known as Chiavennasca. While it is vinified in several different ways, my favorite wine is the Sforzato di Valtellina. Like the famous Amarone di Valpolicella, these grapes are air-dried for a period of time after harvest but before being pressed. This results in a rich, highly flavorful red wine of great intensity and power.

Valtellina: Hiking Villages and Vineyards

2. The Place: France, Alsace, Riquewihr

The Activity: Hiking the 17-kilometer long Sentier Viticole des Grands Crus (See details here.)

Why this one: What is not to like? The trail is relatively easy, and its ingenious design of interconnecting loops within a big loop allows hikers to decide which loop to hike and how much to hike in any one day, while still basing in a single town. Also, this is one of the most popular areas of Alsace, and rightly so. The scenery is a pleasant mix of villages, vineyards, fields and not-so-distant tree-covered mountain tops. The six villages (Hunawihr, Bennwihr, Mittelwihr, Zellenberg, Beblenheim and Riquewihr), are all picture postcard worthy, and charming, once you explore them. The food is excellent, the wines deliciously diverse, and the lodgings varied and (usually) available. Alsace represents excellent values for the money in all three of these areas.

Caveats: As the hike is along one of the most visited sectors on the French Route des Vins d’Alsace, a 150+ kilometer long car route, it can be crowded in restaurants, hotels and parking lots in July and August with local day-trippers and summer vacationers, so plan ahead!

Winning Wine Discovery: Cremant d’Alsace – a sparkling wine made in the Champagne Method. I found that Cremant d’Alsace could be just as effervescent as Champagne, and, due to higher grape ripening levels overall, a bit smoother and fruitier on the palate. (It is also a lot less expensive – another plus!)

Riquewihr: Streets Decked with Flowers and Vines

3. The Place: Germany, Middle Rhine (Mittelrhein)

The Activity: Hiking the 120-kilometer long Rheingauer Riesling Pfad (See details here.)

Why this one: The magic of the myths of the Middle Rhein come to life on this hike. Rising higher and higher along the hills lining the Rhine, the myth-making castles come into view. The perspective of a major river snaking its way through a canyon (from Kaub to Ruedesheim at least) is awe-inspiring, and every village is a fairy-tale unto itself. On northern half of the trail offers an especially diverse hiking experience as hikers pass through forests and glens, vineyards and fields. Another plus: While the hike itself is moderately challenging, the villages offer convenient public transportation, sometimes even via ferry, to your desired destination should need arise to break off – or take a break from – the hike.

Caveats: None, except to note that the while the winter temperatures remain mostly above freezing in the daytime, the weather can be rainy or overcast, especially from late fall to spring.

Winning Wine Discovery: Riesling! I had always found it thin and acidic. But here in its homeland, the area of the Moselle and Rheingau, it is rich, powerful, fruity and balanced. And that can be just the regular versions! Sweeter versions such as Spaetlese, and spectacular versions such as those coming from the Grosses Gewaechs (equivalent to Grand Cru status) can be mind-blowing for those who think they won’t like Riesling.

Europe, Gallery, Germany, Italy

Gallery August 2020

August 21, 2020 admin

Green and Gold: Forests, Fields and Vineyards

Biking, Italy

Days of Discovery in Aosta

August 2, 2020 admin

Recently, I visited a quiet corner of Italy. That is almost a contradiction of terms nowadays, and rather difficult to find in the summer. Seeking a refuge from mass tourism, I came across a bike ride through vineyards in Aosta Valley. Since I had never been there, I decided to make the trip. What a trove of new discoveries of all sorts!

In the first place, the culture is an intriguing mix of French and Italian. Secondly, nature puts on an incredible display of the compelling and pristine: from dramatic Alpine peaks, to well-preserved meadows, to clear, roaring streams. Then, there was the food, and of course the wines.

Personally, I had never seen, or seen offered, a bottle of Aostan wine. But this bike trail was designed to rectify that. There was a clear nexus between the trail design and promotion of the local wine. The trail was designed and promoted by the local wine cooperative, the Cave des Onze Communes, in the heart of Aymavilles, a small Aostan town clinging to a mountainside, dominated by a castle and surrounded by vines.

The trail, mostly on low-density/lightly-trafficked roads, either starts at the winery, or near it, or goes around it. There are actually six short segments of trail, three of which radiate from or near the winery. From there, where, and how far to go, is up to the rider.

To lengthen the ride, follow any or all of three other trails which extend from the original three. Circuits and loops may be created, and backtracking to the start is always possible, and in fact mandatory in places. However, at most there are only six miles or so of itinerary to follow, making this ideal for a quick ride.

A lovely feature of this trail is the view. Mont Blanc, still topped with snow in July, is visible along part of the way, as is Aosta, the main city, in the opposite direction, further down the valley. The trail passes through vineyards, but also affords views of the vineyards on the other side of the valley. A seeming mirror image of the vineyards through which I cycled, these began low, and rose in a very irregular patchwork of vines to surprising heights on the mountains opposite. Above the vineyards were (mostly) pines, and above the tree line, rocky crags pierced the sky, in a brilliant blue on white contrast. Alternatively, those peaks would occasionally snag a cloud, and remained wreathed for a while in a soft white puff.

Castles were visible now and again, barely registering against the backdrop of such massive mountains. This area was conquered and held by many, from Romans to the House of Savoy, before joining the newly formed Italy in the mid-nineteenth century. However the old churches and houses, with steep rooves and deep overhangs, recall that the worst enemy in this part was, and still can be, the weather.

Once back at the winery though, I learned that this area boasts a fair number of local grape varieties, which do well in cold weather, and are more frost-resistant than most. What is more, the varietal wines from the cooperative are delicious, smooth, and quite reasonably priced. Unique grapes and different delicious wines: the best discovery of all!

Italy, Wines

Wine Notes: Italy’s Val d’Aosta

August 1, 2020 admin

What I Learned:

Valle d’Aoste (Aosta Valley) is in the northwest corner of Italy, where Italy, France and Franco-phone Switzerland meet. It is an autonomous region with a heavy French influence. This influence, and of course earlier Roman settlement in the region, means that wine and wine production figure heavily in local culture. Being not only in the north, but also at a rather high elevation, wine-making is a challenge. But it is one that local winemakers have accepted, especially those vintners close to the French border, whose vineyards lie at altitudes greater than 1000 meters above sea level. (In fact, these vineyards lying below Mount Blanc (itself over 4800 meters above sea level), claim to include the highest vineyard in Europe.) While there are other contenders to that title elsewhere in Europe, there can be no doubt that Val d’Aosta winemakers work in seriously mountainous terroir.

While winemaking in such mountainous terrain is not commonplace, it is hardly unique. What is unique however may be found in the high number of native grape varieties. Both red and white varietals grow here, and thrive in the local conditions. The paragraphs below list some of the varietals, both red and white, that are native to the Aosta Valley.

The red varietal Fumin is widely cultivated throughout the central part of the Aosta Valley. Judging from the variety of Fumin Aosta DOC wines on offer, this grape produces a popular varietal wine. Cornalin is another local red varietal, which also produces an Aosta DOC varietal wine. Just over the mountains in the Swiss canton of Valais, the same grape is called Humagne Rouge. Italian vintners cultivate this varietal much less extensively than their Swiss counterparts though.

However, the most widely cultivated local varietal is the Petit Rouge in the Aosta Valley. Second place in terms of hectares cultivated goes to the Vien de Nus, a varietal named after its alleged place of origin. A minimum of 70% of Petit Rouge must be present in the Aosta DOC red wine, Torrette. Vien de Nus may be added to a Torrette cuvee, but it is never vinified as a varietal wine.

The early maturing Mayolet, almost extinct, has been rediscovered. It may be vinified as a varietal wine, a rare find, or may be added to the Torrette DOC blend.

In contrast, there is only one white varietal native to the valley. The Prie Blanc, also known as the Blanc de Morgex, is capable of maturing in some of the most elevated Valdostan vineyards. It is, as it would have to be, resistant to frosts and cold. Planted in some of the highest vineyards in Italy, it is not unusual to find that vintners make sparkling and sweet wines with this grape, although varietal wines are also produced.

What I Tasted:

2016 Pinot Gris, Valle d’Aoste Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Cave Gargantua (Gresson): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; a citrus and peach nose, with peach, nuts and vanilla flavors; medium minus acidity, with a smooth, full-bodied finish.

2015 Fumin Barrique, Valle d’Aoste Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Cave des Onze Communes (Aymavilles): A dry red wine with dark ruby color; nose of spice, smoke and oak, with vanilla, dried cherry and red berry flavors; high tannins, with a smooth finish.

2015 Torrette Superieur, Valle d’Aoste Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Cave des Onze Communes (Aymavilles): A dry red wine blend (Petit Rouge 80%, Fumin 10-15%, Mayolet and Cornalin 5-10%) with dark garnet color; dried red berry nose, with dried red berry, blackberry, oak and vanilla flavors; medium tannins and a long, smooth finish (TDA)

2014 Petite Arvine, Valle d’Aoste Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Feudo di Maurizio (Serre): A dry white wine with medium gold color; mineral nose, with spice, wood, honey and mustard flavors; medium acidity.

Blanc Fripon, Valle d’Aoste Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Quatre Mille Metres (Chambave) with Cave Mont Blanc de Morgex et La Salle (Morgex): A dry, spumante white wine (Prie Blanc 65%, Mueller Thurgau 35%) rather still, with a light gold color; floral and fruity nose, with floral and sweet apple flavors; medium acidity.

Biking, Italy, Nutshell

Tour dei Vigneti: Trail in a Nutshell

August 1, 2020 admin

Trail Name: Tour dei Vigneti

Trail Type: Short to medium distance; almost exclusively paved, well maintained, but the route itself is not always marked.

Length:

Segments – 1.5, 3.5, 5, 5.5, 8 and 10 kilometers/6 miles

Total – Variable, depending on trail segments taken

Convenient to: Aosta, Italy

Marking: Green rectangular Sign with white lettering “Tour dei Vigneti” and a number

Trail Description: A series of short, one-way routes along dirt paths or little-traveled roads covering the village of Aymavilles and nearby hamlets. The numbered routes range from easy (most segments) to difficult, and may be combined according to time and/or ability, and to form circuits.

Trailhead: Cave des Onze Communes, Frazione Micheley, Aymavilles

Parking:

Aymavilles –

Small lot along SR47, just south of the Old Grizzly Café, and another lot further up the road between the roads Micheley and Urbains

In Frazione Vecellod, along street of the same name, just after the sign for the road to Aosta.

Pompoid – by the playground/sports field (basketball and soccer)

Public Transportation Options:

Bus: Societa Valdostana Autoservizi Pubblici (SVAP) Aosta-Cogne line, services Aymavilles from Aosta

Rail: No rail service to Aymavilles. (The closest rail station is in St. Pierre, about 4 kilometers distant.)

Suggested Stages:

This is a series of linked trails, branching off from one another, therefore you can choose which segments you want to do, for a total of about 10 kilometers

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points:

Aymavilles: Frazione Micheley, behind small mount and return, Frazione Pompiod; Pompiod: through village center, past soccer and basketball court, through fields; Jovencan: Frazione Adams, Frazione Pinga, Frazione Jobel, retrace partly; head to Agriturismo Mont Rosset, retrace; Pompiod: through fields and vineyards; Pompiod: retrace trail to small mount to the wine cooperative, but head south on Frazione Urbains, then Franzione Micheley around the castle; return to start.

Representative Trail Photos:

Restrooms: Aymavilles – on the lower part of SR 47 x Frazione Chef Lieu, by the church clock tower

Attractions on or near Trail:

Tasting along the Trail:

In Aymavilles, both Cave des Onze Communes and Les Cretes Viticoltori are open most days for visitors, morning and afternoon.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Vignes et Terroirs vineyards series trails; a short circuit starts in Aymavilles.

Car: Routes de Vins Valle d’Aoste, a series of five short routes totaling about 130 kilometers, almost interlocking, covering the Aosta Valley wine producing areas.

Additional Information:

Regional: http://www.lovevda.it/en

Trail (segment) specific: http://www.caveonzecommunes.it/tour-dei-vigneti/

Comments:

The Aymavilles wine-making community designed this system of cycling itineraries for E-Bikes, which along with regular bicycles, may be rented locally. While mountain bikes are not necessary, sturdy tires are, as parts of the trail are not on asphalt! (See the photos above.)

Obviously a very short ride, but its several variations adds to its attraction. Any number of variations could prove feasible to families with tweens and teens looking for a late afternoon’s diversion; and for an early morning constitutional!

Europe, Germany, Italy

Gallery June 2020

Gallery June 21, 2020 admin

Hiking, Italy

Villanders and Its Vines

June 12, 2020 admin

A mere 17 miles from the Austrian border at the Brenner Pass, the first vineyards appear in northern Italy, along with some linguistic confusion. Following along the Eisack River, the Isarco in Italian, the vineyards begin just as the dramatic narrow pass begins to widen at Novacella, Neustift in German, by Brixen, Bressanone in Italian. Thus, it continues all the way south, throughout Suedtirol/Alto Adige, the South Tirol as English speakers call it.

This area is well-known throughout the German speaking world as a hiking and biking paradise set in the magnificent Dolomites. Here, the German passion for precision and perfection meets the Italian passion for food and wine, and the results are amazing.

Hiking in the northern half of the South Tirol provided more options and was less challenging than biking in it. While the mountains are steep, the paths are relatively well maintained and well-laid out. Although the physical effort was not as easy as hiking in the Rheinhesse wine region in Germany, or the Carnuntum wine region in Austria, any reasonably fit person could complete them.

Amongst a plethora of trails, one wine-themed trail was located high up the western edge of the Dolomites. It was also opposite the Nature Park of Puez-Odle, and its famous peaks, the Odle Group, among them. I figured that from a higher elevation, the views from the trail of the mountain peaks would be spectacular. I was not wrong in that regard.

The trail was named the Toerggeleweg. A toerggele is a wine press, and in this district, wine taverns are often identified with this term. The trail passes through or by vineyards, and wine taverns, as it meanders up and down the mountainside above Klausen/Chiusa, the main town in this district. This district is traditionally agricultural, and several multi-purpose farms run by extended families still exist. The trail often passes right along them. Nowadays, in addition to farming, and running the seasonal wine tavern (toerggele), many families rent places to sleep.

The trail began in the village of Villanders, a popular summer destination. In addition to the old houses lining the narrow streets, the village has an attractive old church, Santo Stefano, on the outskirts of the village. It is worth a visit, especially since the walled cemetery next to it is considered one of the most beautiful in the region. On just about every grave amazing ironwork commemorates the deceased. Much of the ironwork is extremely detailed, imaginative and expertly wrought.

The trail proceeded through woodlands containing chestnut trees. This part of the Toerggeleweg follows along a popular long-distance trail called the Keschtnweg/Sentiero delle Castagne, or the Chestnut Trail. Before long though, I was in vineyards, the object of my hike. Most of the vines are trained high. In this southern Alpine wine region, the growth can be luxuriant quite early in the season. So many shades of green greeted the eye, everywhere I looked.

Every now and then, the trail lead through a farming compound or settlement. As I passed these buildings, I realized what spectacular settings most of them offered. Set on a steep-sided mountain looking across the deep valley, surrounded in part by vineyards, they were forested on untillable sites watered by rushing streams. These farms were well maintained, and looked inhabited. But they were eerily silent. Many rural settlements in Italy are slowly being emptied of local inhabitants, populated only as rentals during the summer season, as the young move to large towns for work, and the old move to towns for companionship. One older man, finishing his farm work for the day, drove by in a creaky Fiat Cinquecento and asked if I wanted a lift. Given that I had quite an incline ahead of me, I was tempted. I should have taken his offer, as I am sure he would have had interesting stories to tell about life on the mountain in days gone by.

The trail eventually reached the hamlet of Sauders. More houses, and more people (three) than I had seen for over an hour. At Sauders, the trail reached its southern-most point. The slow incline up and back to Villanders began, leading out of the hamlet on a well-maintained trail, the Kirchsteig. It soon passed an old mill on a torrent, barely contained in its course as it bounded down the mountainside.

Just as the Kirchsteig joined the road to the center of Villanders, I had one more expansive view of the Eisack river and its valley, making its way through the Dolomites on its way to points south. A memorable end to a memorable trail, or possibly four or five due to the multiplicity of trails and trail names involved!

Italy, Wines

Wine Notes: Italy’s Eisacktal

June 11, 2020 admin

What I Learned

The Eisacktal district is one of several denominated wine districts of the Suedtirol wine region. The Eisack river is named Isarco in Italian, and the valley it created over the millennia is one of northern Italy’s main north-south routes. The district is located in north-central Italy, just south the Brenner Pass connecting Italy and Austria. It has less than 400 hectares devoted to vineyards. The vineyards exist at lower elevations than the pass, and are usually in relatively sheltered places with good exposure to the sun. (After all, we are talking about an area distinguished primarily by the Alps and Dolomites.) Some of the best vineyards are on the slopes south (and below) Saebens, an ancient monastery, rising above Klausen. About 90% of the wine from here is white wine. Sylvaner (yes with a Y here), Kerner and Gewuerztraminer) with the remainder a red blend (permitted varietals include Vernatsch/Schiava Grossa, Blauer Portugieser, Pinot Noir) called Klausner Laitacher.

What I Tasted

2017 Sylvaner “Aristos” Eisacktal DOC, Eisacktaler Kellereigenossenschaft, (Klausen): A dry white wine with medium plus gold color; a fruity, spicy and mineral nose, with vanilla and gooseberry flavors; medium plus acidity.

2017 Kerner “Aristos” Eisacktal DOC, Eisacktaler Kellereigenossenschaft, (Klausen): A dry white wine with medium plus gold color; vanilla, mango and peach nose, with licorice, peach and vanilla flavors, medium plus acidity.

2017 Veltliner, Eisacktal DOC, Eisacktaler Kellereingenossenschaft (Klausen): A dry white wine with light gold color; peach and spice nose, with peach, apricot and vanilla flavors; medium acidity.

2016 Zweigelt “Z”, IGT, Eisacktaler Kellereigenossenschaft, (Klausen): A dry red wine with dark garnet color; spice and dark cherry nose, with flavors of the same; medium tannins.

2016 Caruess Mitterberg Weiss, IGT, Weingut Roeck (Villanders): A dry white wine cuvee (Gewuerztraminer (about 50%), Pinot Grigio and Sylvaner), with medium plus gold color; chalk and slight floral nose, with white fruits, spicy, slight vanilla and oak flavors

2014 Zweigelt Mitterberg Caruess, IGT, Weingut Roeck (Villanders): A dry red wine with medium plus ruby red color; smoke and violet nose, with vanilla, tobacco and dark cherry flavors; medium plus tannins.

Hiking, Italy, Nutshell

Toerggeleweg: Trail in a Nutshell

June 11, 2020 admin

Trail Name: Toerggeleweg Villanders/Villandro (AKA Toerggelesteig) (See comment below)

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; somewhat maintained, mostly rough surfaces outside built-up areas, sometimes spotty marking on the trail.

Length:

Total – approximately 8.5 kilometers/ 5.25 miles

Convenient to: Klausen/Chiusa, Bozen/Bolzano, or Brixen/Bressanone, Suedtirol/Alto Adige, Italy

Marking: Partly along the Keschtnweg/Sentiero del Castagno (chestnut outlined in black on a white background), partly along the Toerggeleweg (AKA Toerggelesteig) bunch of grapes outlined in black on a white background; In Italy in general, horizontal white and red rectangles, either in isolation or with a trail name or symbol, indicate you are on a hiking trail.

Trail Description: Beginning in a village, this circuit trail passes through a nice variety of woodland, meadow and vineyard landscapes, while providing fantastic views of the majestic Dolomite peaks in the Odle Group. While slightly more challenging than some vineyard hikes on account of the rougher trail surfaces (in places), numerous ascents and descents, and generally steeper terrain, it is suitable for most moderately fit hikers.

Trailhead: Villanders: Kirche Sankt Michael/San Michele, Vicolo Franz v. Defregger (by Hotel Ansitz zum Steinbock)

Parking:

Villanders: Unterdorf, a medium-sized lot (behind and below the townhall/tourism office)

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: Regular service from Brixen (to the north) or Bozen (to the south) to Klausen

Bus: Service from Klausen to Villanders is available through Verkehrsverbund Suedtirol, the 345/ Villandro-Chiusa line. Information may be found (as of June 2020) at www.suedtirolmobil.info.

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Clockwise)

Villanders: Center of Villanders (Unterdorf x Hofstatt)’ Path below Kirche Sankt Michael/San Michele, Fussweg St Stefano-Gravetsch, briefly on St Valentin; cross the creek; woods, Erzweg, Johannser (settlement), cross creek lower down; Sankt Valentin/San Valentino: Am Erzweg/Via alle Miniere, Landestrasse/SP 87, past a chapel; Bodenacker: Past some houses, onto Toerggelesteig path, downhill then uphill through woods; Oberstattleitner compound; Unter St Stefan/St. Stefano: Past the Ober- and Unter- Furner compounds; Sauders: past a church; Kirchsteig path (blue and white signs), Villanders: Hofstatt, toward town center (Ortsmitte)

Representative Trail Photos:

Representative Trail Section Through Meadows

Representative Trail Section Through Forest

Restrooms:

Villanders/Villandro: In the Cemetery, in the hillside above the graves

Villanders/Villandro: Down behind the town hall complex, by the sports fields

Attractions on or near Trail: None (except the scenery!)

Tasting along the Trail:

Look for Toerggele or Buschenschank, especially in Sauders and nearby Oberfurner and Oberpartegg, and hotel restaurants in Villanders center.

The regional cooperative is on the outskirts of Klausen.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Lots of hiking trails, naturally, but only the other Toerggelesteig trails in Klausen, Feldthurns and Barbian (see comment below), and the Leitach-Chiusa Sentiero del Vino (a 4.5 km circuit), are wine-themed trails.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.klausen.it/it/

Trail specific: https://www.klausen.it/it/365-giorni-attivita/escursionismo/escursioni-consigliati/

Comments:

In addition to Villanders, nearby Klausen/Chiusa, Barbian/Barbiano and Feldthurns/Velturno also have Toerggelesteig trails, especially popular during new wine season in the autumn. This may account for a number of trails in the area being marked on some maps as “Toerggelesteig,” which exceed the scope of the Villanders circuit described above.

Hiking, Italy

Hiking Through Schioppettino

October 2, 2019 admin

Winding down the side of the mountain, from a basilica through the vines to the wines of Schioppettino di Prepotto, is what this hike was all about in a nutshell.

But the sum of a hike is more than its trailheads. In this case, the trailheads themselves were impressive. The first, (or possibly the second if following the trail uphill) is the Sanctuary of Castelmonte. Visible for miles from below, with views for miles from up top, the site has deep layers of history and archeology as far back as the Iron Age. But today’s sanctuary has served as a prominent pilgrimage church for this corner of the Province of Udine in northeastern Italy since about the sixth century. However, what is visible now dates to even later than that. Architectural magnificence aside, the site itself is dramatically sited and gorgeous.

Continue reading Hiking Through Schioppettino →

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