Readers may have noticed that there are many hiking trails through vineyards in the whole of the Rhine River Valley, in Germany, France and Switzerland. However, many of the vineyards in the Rhine River Valley, are not necessarily close to the river, especially since the valley is especially wide where the river flows between France and Germany. Hence Alsatian vineyards in France, and the Baden vineyards in Germany can be miles away from the river.
But it is a very different picture (and view) indeed, when hiking or biking through the northern Rheingau or southern Mittelrhein wine regions. Previous hikes through the Rheingau (on the east/right bank of the Rhine) on the fabulous Rheingauer RieslingPfad (see here, and the photo below), left me wanting to see more, and from a different perspective. I began with the southern-most vine growing area on the west/left bank of the Rhine, where the Reblausweg Trail provides nice views of both the Rheingau and Mittelrhein vineyards just across the river.
Both Banks: Lorch (Foreground), Niederheimbach (Opposite)
Trail Type: Short distance circuit; well-maintained and mostly paved or hard-packed earthen trail, marking on the trail is mostly good, but not specific to this trail
Length:
Total – 7.8 kilometers/miles
Convenient to: Bingen, or Koblenz, Germany
Marking:
Nothing specific to the Reblausweg trail, but directional signs, and marking for the Panoramaweg trail (which this trail partly follows), are both helpful.
The city of Schaffhausen in Switzerland earned its fame as the city of the Rheinfall, where the Rhine River tumbles and falls with a deafening roar over boulders as it curves through the cliffs lining the river. It is also the leading city of the canton, and the vineyards around it, and in nearby Hallau, and downriver, are also named after this city. Although it has these and several other claims to fame, it is not a heavily visited area on the Rhine.
View of Two Countries and Two Cantons
I made a quick visit to this canton in 2019 to complete a hike. It was an easy one, through largely flat terrain as it mostly meanders along the Rhine River. It starts in the German town of Jestetten, a pleasant little town to visit, set amongst the farms of this rural district. Along with the villages of Lottstetten and Altenburg, and the hamlets of Balm and Nack, Switzerland almost completely surrounds this enclave of Germany on the right bank of the Hochrhein (High Rhine).
Quiet Hamlet of Balm, Germany
A steep descent to the “Roman” bridge (built circa 1696), led to the Volkenbach, a creek set in a dramatically narrow ravine. After climbing out of the ravine, the trail continued through woods, then fields. After Balm, the trail followed the Rhine in earnest, mostly through woods, with trees dedicated to former forest wardens, and bigger-than-life carved wooden fish commemorating generations of anglers, I suppose. For about seven kilometers (4.5 miles), the quiet sounds of riverine life prevailed: waves lapping against the shoreline stones, ducks and swans paddling through water, the occasional fish splashing about.
The Rhine by Ruedlingen, Switzerland
As soon as I crossed into Switzerland, a quirky sign of civilization appeared in the form of a bell. The accompanying sign warned would-be passengers to ring loudly for the ferry. On the opposite shore, in Ellikon am Rhein, were two little water-front restaurants or taverns. But at 10:30 the taverns were not yet open, so I sadly continued following downriver.
Ellikon am Rhein, Switzerland
Just before the bridge crossing the Rhine (one of the few in this area), the trail cut away from the river, and quickly entered Ruedlingen. It was a small village, more like a settlement of farming families. It had an interesting center though. Set as it was against the steep Buchberg hill, at a curve in the Rhine, it seemed ideal for day-trippers to visit.
Buchberg Above Ruedlingen, Switzerland
The ascent up the Buchberg was through vineyards. These were the last vineyards in the Schaffhausen Canton. They lie in a completely self-contained enclave of the Schaffhausen Canton within the Zurich Canton. The Baden wine region vineyards of Lottstetten lie to the north of them; the Zurich Canton vineyards surround them to the east and west.
Uphill Through Vines to Buchberg
South though, lay steep hills (maybe mountains). Heavily wooded and appealing after the flatter lands by the river, they presaged an unseen Alpine presence less than 50 miles away. Those hikes will have to wait, but in the meantime, there is some Swiss wine to enjoy!
Trail Type: Mid-distance trail; well-maintained and almost exclusively hard surfaces, no trail-specific marking for this trail, although there are the standard directional and distance (or time) markers.
Length:
Total – 13.5 kilometers/8.4 miles
Convenient to: Schaffhausen, or Zurich, Switzerland
Marking: No trail-specific signage. Directional signs only follow (See comments below)
Examples of German Directional Signs
Examples of Swiss Directional Signs and Trail Markings
Trail Description:
Following mostly along the Rhine River’s edge in a little-known corner of Germany and Switzerland, this very easy trail, with only two short but somewhat steep inclines, offers variety in the landscape, tranquil scenery, and often shady paths.
Trailheads:
Jestetten, Germany: Saarstr (x Bahnhof) (start)
Buchberg, Switzerland: Dorfstr (end)
Parking:
Jestetten, Germany: Bahnhofstr (by station)
Buchberg, Switzerland: by the church
Public Transportation Options:
Rail: S9, Schaffhausen-Jestetten-Uster, stops in Rafz, (about 4 kilometers distant, but the closest to Buchberg)
Bus: Zurcher Verkehrsverbund, (ZVV), runs a frequent and direct bus service to Rafz on ZVV Bus 675
Jestetten, Germany: Saarstr, Altenburger Str, Im See; Cross the Volkenbach; through woods and fields; Lottstetten: Cross Weiherweg, Balmerstr, along river (and mostly through wooded terrain) for a while; Ruedlingen: past parking lot on river; cross Rafzerstr, past water treatment plant, Chratzeren, Hinterdorfstr, Sustenstr, Schuelwegli; vineyards, Buchberg, Switzerland: vineyards, Church, Dorfstr
Representative Trail Photos:
Sample of Trail Through Woods by the RiverSample Section of Incline (Buchberg)Trail by the Roman Bridge
Restrooms:
Jestetten, Germany: Bahnhofstr x Saarstr, by the station
Ruedlingen, Switzerland: Chratzeren, at the water treatment facility
Attractions on or near Trail:
Tasting along the Trail: Café Rebe, Buchberg, Dorfstr 22; Besen-Beiz, Buchberg, Lindenhof (after 4 Apr 19)
Alternative Options:
Bike: Rhein-Route 2, Stage 7 (Schaffhausen to Bad Zurzach), a 53-kilometers (33 miles) bicycle itinerary covers this territory and more, following mostly along the Rhine River.
An option to cross the river by a small ferry is possible opposite Nack. (Look for the bell to ring to summon the ferry from the far side of the river.) There are not one, but two, water-side eateries there to slack the thirst and sate the hunger of hikers, bikers and boaters!
In Switzerland, instead of distance, the required time is usually indicated. (And in my experience, represents a healthy pace.)
Chablis is a small town in the northwest corner of Burgundy, France. It is also an appellation. The appellation produces of some of the most delicious, mouth-watering, Chardonnay in the world. The town itself is surrounded by all of the seven grands crus in the appellation, and these were what I had come to see, and taste, of course.
Chablis
The Sept (Seven) Grands Crus trail delivered on its promise: I went through or along, or within sight of all seven. Less a hike, and more of a stroll, even the most hedonistic wine-taster, or gourmand who has spent decades indulging exclusively in the rich, buttery cuisine of this area, could complete this short trail. While not for everyone, (most people would be content simply to taste the wines on offer from multiple winemakers within the town), this trail will certainly interest Chablis wine-enthusiasts who have come to appreciate the land, the terroir, from which this nectar derives. I found it fascinating to see the lay of the land, the expositions, and the world-famous stone.
Trail Name: Chablis – Les Sept Grands Crus/ Chablis – Les 7 Grands Crus (See comments below.)
Trail Type: Short distance circuit; trail surfaces mostly well-maintained and almost exclusively paved or hard-packed; marking on the trail was difficult to discern. (See comments below.)
With COVID 19-related travel restrictions and lockdowns, everybody’s ability to travel has made hiking and biking in Europe difficult, and impossible for me in 2020. So this month, I have decided to focus on some of my favorite hiking adventures. I will explain why I favor these adventures over some of the others, and let the photographs speak for themselves. You will note that sometimes the photos are taken in different seasons, and that is because I so enjoyed these wine regions (and their wines), I revisited them more than once. And I fervently hope that hikers, including myself, can travel to these areas in 2021!
1. The Place: Italy: Valtellina
The Activity: Hiking (or mountain-biking!) the 70-kilometer-long Via dei Terrazzamenti
Why this one: This moderately challenging hike offers absolutely stunning Alpine scenery, with several villages or hamlets to explore along the way, and diverse agricultural landscapes just to provide variety. The trail was moderately challenging, as there were several steep and relatively long inclines, but they were punctuated by relatively flat stretches, and even some descents. The scenery can speak for itself, and the villages and hamlets were quiet, charming, unspoiled locations in which to take a break, and enjoy the atmosphere. Sondrio is about in the middle, and a good place to base from, and makes a good place to break the hike until the next day. While I loved the fantastic Sentiero Valtellina bicycle trail (see details here) which parallels this trail, albeit along the north-facing side of the river valley, the Via dei Terrazzamenti won out because it was higher up, and on the south-facing mountains, thus passing through more vineyards.
Caveats: The quiet location means you might be challenged to find accommodation to your liking. It’s not that they didn’t have several nice hotels in Sondrio, Tirano and Morbegno. It is just that if you are looking for a resort, or even a five-star hotel, there won’t be any (as of January 2021).
Winning Wine Discovery: In Valtellina, the Nebbiolo grape is known as Chiavennasca. While it is vinified in several different ways, my favorite wine is the Sforzato di Valtellina. Like the famous Amarone di Valpolicella, these grapes are air-dried for a period of time after harvest but before being pressed. This results in a rich, highly flavorful red wine of great intensity and power.
Valtellina: Alpine Scenery on the Trail
On the Trail in Valtellina
Valtellina: Hiking Villages and Vineyards
2. The Place: France, Alsace, Riquewihr
The Activity: Hiking the 17-kilometer long Sentier Viticole des Grands Crus (See details here.)
Why this one: What is not to like? The trail is relatively easy, and its ingenious design of interconnecting loops within a big loop allows hikers to decide which loop to hike and how much to hike in any one day, while still basing in a single town. Also, this is one of the most popular areas of Alsace, and rightly so. The scenery is a pleasant mix of villages, vineyards, fields and not-so-distant tree-covered mountain tops. The six villages (Hunawihr, Bennwihr, Mittelwihr, Zellenberg, Beblenheim and Riquewihr), are all picture postcard worthy, and charming, once you explore them. The food is excellent, the wines deliciously diverse, and the lodgings varied and (usually) available. Alsace represents excellent values for the money in all three of these areas.
Caveats: As the hike is along one of the most visited sectors on the French Route des Vins d’Alsace, a 150+ kilometer long car route, it can be crowded in restaurants, hotels and parking lots in July and August with local day-trippers and summer vacationers, so plan ahead!
Winning Wine Discovery: Cremant d’Alsace – a sparkling wine made in the Champagne Method. I found that Cremant d’Alsace could be just as effervescent as Champagne, and, due to higher grape ripening levels overall, a bit smoother and fruitier on the palate. (It is also a lot less expensive – another plus!)
Alsace: A Fortified Church at Hunawihr
Alsace: Village of Zellenberg
Riquewihr: Streets Decked with Flowers and Vines
3. The Place: Germany, Middle Rhine (Mittelrhein)
The Activity: Hiking the 120-kilometer long Rheingauer Riesling Pfad (See details here.)
Why this one: The magic of the myths of the Middle Rhein come to life on this hike. Rising higher and higher along the hills lining the Rhine, the myth-making castles come into view. The perspective of a major river snaking its way through a canyon (from Kaub to Ruedesheim at least) is awe-inspiring, and every village is a fairy-tale unto itself. On northern half of the trail offers an especially diverse hiking experience as hikers pass through forests and glens, vineyards and fields. Another plus: While the hike itself is moderately challenging, the villages offer convenient public transportation, sometimes even via ferry, to your desired destination should need arise to break off – or take a break from – the hike.
Caveats: None, except to note that the while the winter temperatures remain mostly above freezing in the daytime, the weather can be rainy or overcast, especially from late fall to spring.
Winning Wine Discovery: Riesling! I had always found it thin and acidic. But here in its homeland, the area of the Moselle and Rheingau, it is rich, powerful, fruity and balanced. And that can be just the regular versions! Sweeter versions such as Spaetlese, and spectacular versions such as those coming from the Grosses Gewaechs (equivalent to Grand Cru status) can be mind-blowing for those who think they won’t like Riesling.
December again – the month of short, dark, often rainy or snowy days. The hikes in Germany and Alsace in December are necessarily short due to limited daylight hours, and unmitigated fog which rarely lifts before noon. I can look forward to winter hikes in Germany and Alsace though because of the abundance of cheerfully lit Christmas Markets – a wonderful way to dispel the cold and dark, and embrace the joy of the season.
Noon: Winter Solstice in Metzingen
This hike, done at noon on the shortest day of the year, was not too far from the old university town of Tuebingen, which has its own Christmas Market. It was in the vineyard areas of Metzingen, in the hills above the town. This is not far from the Neckar Valley region, before the Neckar meanders through Stuttgart. Nonetheless, there is a very rural feel to this town, and the surrounding countryside forms part of the Schwaebische Alb, a hilly/mountainous region in southern Germany set between the upper Neckar, and the young Danube rivers.
Dettlingen and the Schwaebische Alb
However, the vine-covered hills on the edge of Metzingen are not very high, and hard-packed surfaces traverse the wide slopes. This makes the itinerary to the top suitable for families with young and old alike, and those looking for an easy stretch of the legs. (Be sure to follow the itinerary, which is counterclockwise because the descent is more direct, hence a bit steeper.) The whole Weinerlebnisweg Metzingen-Neuhausen trail may be completed in an hour or so; a bit longer if you read the wine-education boards along the way, and take some time to enjoy the benches, and even a hammock, from which hikers have wide panoramic views of the area south and west.
Shelter and Hammock
Another nice feature of this trail is that it connects with a sister trail, the Weinerlebnisweg Metzingen, via a connecting loop. (The top half heads out from, the bottom half leads to, the trailhead in Metzingen-Neuhausen.) The two parts of the loop segment are a nice addition. They provide scenic variety, as much of this loop passes through a saddle between the vineyards of Metzingen and Metzingen-Neuhausen. Instead of vines, fruit trees, nut trees and fields predominate here. The trail passes over the little Spalerbach creek before it enters Metzingen.
Spanning the Creek
The Weinerlebnis Metzingen is similar in design to the Weinerlebnisweg Metzingen-Neuhausen trail in that it traverses the vineyard slope outside Metzingen. There is an added attraction here though. While vintner huts were conspicuous by their absence on the earlier trail, here they are found in abundance. These little huts serve as storage and shelter in bad weather. Often decorated a bit, they are unique and individualized contributions to the scenery along the trail.
Vintners’ Huts Overlooking Metzingen
Although I didn’t do it, shortly after the Metzingen Weinerlebnisweg Parkplatz (parking area), once at the bottom of the vineyard, a quick dogleg right, then left onto Neuffener Strasse, continuing beneath the under pass to Nuertinger Strasse, will lead to the Stadthalle and the nearby Kelternplatz. The town has carefully maintained this square devoted to Metzingen’s wine-making history. It is filled with seven half-timbered structures that formerly contained huge wine presses. Now, these building contain, among other things, a vinothek, a wine-museum, a wine-makers house and opportunities to buy or taste the local wines. I visited this square on a previous visit and can say that it is worth a detour. (See the Nutshell here for more information.)
After passing through the Metzingen vineyards, the trail rejoins the connecting loop’s lower part. From there to my start point in Metzingen-Neuhausen, it was a pleasant, albeit very easy, walk, which I completed in the short time that spanned the lifting of morning fog, and the falling of evening’s darkness. While it may not have been a challenging trail in any sense, it was a great local itinerary that drew attention to the centuries old tradition of wine-making in Metzingen and Metzingen-Neuhausen.
Trail Name: Weinerlebnisweg (Metzingen und Neuhausen)
Trail Type: Two short distance circuits conjoined by a third circuit between them; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, a form of marking/signage is along parts of the trail
Length: 8.3 km/5 miles
Convenient to: Tuebingen or Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany
Marking:
Alternate red and green squares (often on tall posts) mark learning points along the trail, although these do not necessarily point the way to the next point.
Marker on the Weinerlebnis Trail Metzingen-Neuhausen
Trail Description: A relatively easy itinerary up and down hills and dales, with learning boards, rest stops and scenic lookouts along the way, through agricultural and woodland settings, above a moderately urbanized area.
Trailheads:
Kelternstrasse, Neuhausen (for the Metzingen-Neuhausen circuit)
Am Gruenen Haeusle, Metzingen (for the Metzingen circuit)
Parking:
Kelternstrasse, Metzingen-Neuhausen (for the Metzingen-Neuhausen circuit)
Elsa-Braendstroem-Strasse (30), Metzingen (for the Metzingen circuit)
(Both are right on the trail)
Public Transportation Options:
Rail: DB ‘s (Deutsche Bahn) regional trains conveniently connect Metzingen with Tuebingen and Stuttgart
Suggested Stages:
Hikers can choose to complete one circuit, (such as the Neuhausen circuit for approximately 3.25 kilometers/2 miles), then return another day to complete the Metzingen circuit, which is just a bit shorter.
Metzingen-Neuhausen: End of Kelternstrasse, follow the uphill path into the vineyards, take the path to the right, and follow along the vines (you will see education boards along the way), turn left, uphill, to a rest hut with a hammock, and follow back along the hillside, climb up to the Hofbuehl sign, follow a yellow circle over a foot bridge to the Hofbuehlbrunnen (a fountain), to Steinerweg; Metzingen: Through vineyards, to the parking spots on Elsa-Braendstroem-Strasse, turn left, downhill and curve around left to follow along the lower vineyards above Metzingen, back onto Steinerweg, and downhill, curving southeast to the start point in Metzingen-Neuhausen
Representative Trail Photos:
Trail Segment
Trail Segment in the Vineyards
Trail Section through Fields and Orchards
Restrooms: None observed!
Attractions on or near Trail:
Metzingen: On Kelternplatz there is a collection of half-timbered buildings formerly housing old wine presses, a museum dedicated to wine-making in the area, a Winemakers House, and a vinothek and wine bar.
Tasting along the Trail:
The local cooperative WGS (Winzergenossenschaft) Metzingen-Neuhausen is on Kelternplatz, Metzingen
The Wengerterhaeusle (“Winemakers House” listed above) offers regular public wine tasting events. Check the events schedule (“Veranstaltungen”) at https://weinbaumuseum-metzingen.de/
Alternative Options:
Biking: The 353 kilometers/219 miles-long Wuerttemberger Weinradweg passes through Metzingen. The southern portion often follows along the Neckar River, one of Germany’s wine rivers, before heading east and north at Heilbronn. See the Nutshell here.
This may be the shortest post on record. Minutes away from Weimar, I gave a mighty tug on my luggage, stubbornly stuck under the train seat, only to have my knee, not my backpack, give way. Going down, using an old Anglo-Saxon cognate that caught the attention of the many modern-day German-speaking passengers, they graciously helped me off the train at the station. Months preparing for this two-day hike, hours of travel from Frankfurt, and in the end, no hike.
Fortunately, a friend and I had planned to meet at the station in Weimar, and he had a rental car. So off we went to Naumburg, just over the Thuringian border, in Saxony-Anhalt. Naumburg is a lovely old town with a spectacular medieval cathedral, (housing Disney’s Snow White evil stepmother look-alike – judge for yourself, below), and site of the trailhead for the Saale Weinwanderweg.
Uta of Ballenstedt
The trail commemorates the Saale-Unstrut wine region in Germany. It is one of two wine regions in eastern Germany, and the one with the northern most vineyards in Germany. These vineyards lie mostly on the south-facing hills and river banks lining the Unstrut and the Saale rivers (not to be confused with the Fraenkische Saale river, further south). Hence this trail partly follows along these two rivers. And the trailhead is located not far from where the two rivers meet, just outside Naumburg.
Along the Saale
My friend, there to tour historical sites and peruse antique porcelain, graciously agreed to shuttle me to a series of points on the trail, accessible by car, where I could hop out, literally, to take photos. First stop, the trailhead. As evident by the photo below, this part of the trail is also a bicycle path, as were the subsequent sections I saw. It appeared that much of this trail could be biked, with a hybrid or mountain bike, from the looks of the sections I could reach. One caveat though, there are two sections higher up the hillsides, and through woods, that are probably a bit rougher, possibly suitable only for hiking. (There are cycling path alternatives though.)
Sample of Trail by Naumburg-Henne
Another nice feature of this trail is the fact that it passes through some of the wine villages and towns in this region. The largest town in the area, Naumburg, has a nicely maintained historic district. It, and the cathedral, are worth a visit. Then there were a couple of villages. Kleinjena, opposite Grossjena on the Unstrut, comes next on the itinerary. Rossbach is a bit beyond Kleinjena. A settlement appropriately named Weinberge “vineyards”, follows, with its collections of vines suspended on the banks facing the Saale. Wine loving hikers will find several small, family run wineries along this sector of the trail.
Kleinjena: Main Street
Before reaching Bad Koesen, Kloster Pforta appears on the trail. This old monastery building is now one of the largest local wineries. Its Saalhaeuser vineyard rise above it, and the river passes in front of it. The winery has a cozy a wine tavern collocated with it. Its little terrace looks out over the river, and on a nice day, would be ideal for sipping a glass or two of its wines. (The other large winery, the Naumburger Wein und Sekt Manufaktur, is in fact a still and sparkling wine firm located on the trail a bit further upriver in Henne-Naumburg.)
Vineyards by Nussbach
The trail returns to Naumburg via the bridge crossing at Bad Koesen. It is a small spa town on the Saale, to the west of Naumburg. In addition to being a spa town, with all the amenities found in any German spa town, there are several hiking trails in that district, and a least a couple of these focus on the vineyards. At the edge of Bad Koesen lies Schulpforte, formerly a Cistercian monastery dating to the twelfth century. (These were the monks who founded the original winery now found at the Kloster Pforta mentioned above.) After the abbey’s dissolution, the Duke of Saxony founded a school on the property. The impressive complex backs onto the side of a forested hill. The trail continues up that hill and through a forest for about two kilometers, back to Naumburg. (This was the part I could not hobble to, so I can’t write about the trail conditions.)
Schulpforta
I completed my photo reconnaissance of this trail in less than an hour, vice two days. Thus, I had time to visit Colditz, and get lunch in a wine tavern. Over the rest of the day, and the next, I had opportunities to sample some Saale-Unstrut wines, and finalize plans to return some day to hike in the area, and taste more wines.
