Category Archives: Hiking

Circuit du Vignoble: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Circuit du Vignoble (Bike), Circuit de Piémont (Hike)

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit trail; well-maintained, with almost exclusively paved or hard-packed surfaces throughout, marking on the trail not always easily discerned

Length: 10.1 kilometers/6 miles

Convenient to: Selestat, Alsace, France

Marking:

Green circle outline on a white background (hike); Yellow (or orange) triangle (pointing to direction of travel) with two yellow (or orange) wheels, indicates a bike-able trail itinerary, though not clear whether this one or not. Note too, this sign indicates villages and distances to them. With so many trails (and signs) in this area, the issue is finding consistent marking to follow for a specific trail.

Signage Options

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Lavender and Purple Grapes

 

Provence produces purples in abundance. From the different varietals of red (actually dark purple colored) grapes grown in the region, to the fields of lavender. Color abounds, and not just in the fields!  The vibrant blues and yellows of tableware and dining linens, the luscious deep reds of the wines, the green of the olive oils are all visible in markets throughout the region.

Provencal Table Linens

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Vignes et Cabanes: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Des Vignes et Cabanes

Trail Type: Short-distance circuit (for hiking and biking); well-maintained and almost exclusively paved or hard-packed surfaces; marking on the trail fairly good. See comments below.

Length: 8.95 kilometers/5.5 miles

Convenient to: Montelimar, France

Marking: Either VTT 1, or just 1

Signage for the Bike and Hike Trail

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A Great Hike in Bad Koesen

 

My second trip to the Saale-Unstrut wine region, following my disastrous first trip (see here), occurred in the middle of January. My destination this time was the Weinbergsweg circuit trail. This hike proved a great, easy, family-friendly, circuit trail through vineyards, town and wooded areas, following along the Saale River as it circles through and around Bad Koesen in Saxony-Anhalt, Germany.

I began my hike by following the river. It was a lazy, but very scenic stretch along the Saale. This section also had several pubs and taverns, with outdoor seating overlooking the river. Ideal for a lovely summer afternoon or evening, but usually not available in winter. Vineyards were on the left, and flat, alluvial fields on the right.

Saale River

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Weinbergsweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Weinbergsweg

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit; well-maintained and much of it paved; marking on the trail good

Length:

Total – 10.2 kilometers/6 miles

Convenient to: Bad Koesen (see comments below), or Naumburg, Saxony-Anhalt, Germany

Marking:

Rectangular signs with green background and white lettering “Weinbergsweg” Below is an older version of the signage, still found in places, and the feature photograph above displays the newer signage.

Older Sign for Weinbergsweg

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Walking in a Wonderland

 

I had hoped to walk in a winter wonderland, it being mid-December. What I hiked instead was a watery wander-land, crisscrossed by trails. But even without snow, it fulfilled the sense of mystery and magic inherent in every Christmas season, and ended up being one of the hikes whose sights and sounds I recall most vividly.

Where Land Meets Water Along the Rhine

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Trail in a Nutshell: Rheinauen und Weinbergweg

 

Trail Name:  Rheinauen und Weinbergweg

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; somewhat maintained with varied surfaces, tarmac to earthen (to include some wet ones), fairly good marking on the trail, but no trail-specific marking.

Length:

Total – 8.7 kilometers/5.4 miles

Convenient to: Freiburg, or Breisach, Germany

Marking: None specific to the trail, but all hiking trails in the area are marked with the generic yellow diamond on a white background trail signs.

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Trails Along the Moselle

 

To many wine lovers, the Middle Rhine means exceptional Riesling. To me, the lower Moselle means scenery that is just as dramatic, in a region that is far quieter, with Riesling that is just as good. All that adds up to a wonderful vacation in the heart of one of Germany’s most well-known wine regions.

One of the great things about the Moselle valley is that most towns are all connected by a rail system on the left bank. Hence, going from Koblenz (on the Rhine), upriver to Trier, is both convenient and relatively inexpensive. I began in Lehmen, and hiked, on a variety of paths to Loef, where I spent the night. While I had completed hikes in Hatzenport (just one village away upriver), and another in Winningen, a few miles downriver, I found this short stretch of the valley particularly attractive. Not only were there several hiking trails to choose from (see the accompanying Nutshell here), the scenery was striking, the restaurants very good, and the Rieslings delicious, for less than many comparable Middle Rhine wines.

Mists Rise as the Trail Rises Upward

The trails start in the villages along the river, and climb steeply up the cliffs behind them. Due to the steepness of the slopes, the vineyards are small and steep, only rising to a certain point. Above them is forested area, and between it and further above, the trail runs, sometimes narrow and twisting over rock and tree roots, with clear views up and down the valley.

First View of the Moselle

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Wuerzlaysteig: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Wuerzlaysteig (See Comments below)

Trail Type: Middle distance; well-maintained but with very diverse surfaces along the trail; marking on the trail is good, albeit not necessarily for just one specific trail. (See Comments below)

Length:

Total – 13 kilometers/8 miles

Convenient to: Koblenz, Germany

Marking: (See Comments below as well)

Signs on the Trail

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Three by Three

 

In the southern Champagne region, there is a village, composed of three hamlets: Ricey-Bas, Ricey Haut, and Ricey Haute Rive, collectively known as Les Riceys. There are three trails hikers may choose from that meander in and around the village. These three hamlets, and three trails, provide visitors an opportunity to experience rural, agricultural France, in one of the largest (most extensive) vineyard sites in Champagne.

From the starting point in a parking lot, I was struck by the almost 360-degree view of the rather rocky hills of this area. In fact, piles of rock appeared everywhere along the trail, and they were not of just the cadoles. This trail focuses on the vineyard areas and the cadoles, centuries-old, round, dry stone wall huts found nearby. These were formerly used by vintners for storage and as respite from the weather.

Expanse of Les Riceys Vineyards

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