My first question: does that translate as capitol or capital? The answer is capital. Second and third questions: what is a capital, and why are ten of them in vineyards? The answers to these questions became clear once I started hiking through the vineyards of Soave.
Craving the colors and scents of plants in the first blush of bloom, and the warmth of a southern sun, I decided to visit the northernmost part of the largest appellation along the Rhone River, south of Lyon, where some consider the Mediterranean part of France to begin. So I really looked forward to this spring trip after a cold and dreary winter.
Ironically, the northernmost village within this appellation, was also one of the villages offering a promising wine trail. Here, where the Condrieu appellation ends, the agglomerated village of Chavanay and the Saint Joseph appellation begin. This appellation produces both luscious red wines, and aromatic, full-bodied white wines. Ideal for sipping in potentially any kind of weather.
Trail Type: Medium distance circuit; partly paved, some hard-packed path, some sandy and rocky stretches, fairly well maintained, and fairly well-marked albeit not with the trail name as stated above.
Length: 12 kilometers/circa 8 miles
Convenient to: Vienne, France
Marking:
White and yellow rectangular stripes, sometimes painted or sometimes on a board, sometimes with the words “Chavanay 1”, (vice Sentier des Vignobles a Chavanay). Also see the typical trail signpost, above.
In my search in Italy for a DOC wine producing region around Lake Como, Lake Maggiore or Lake Lugano, I found nothing. Instead, I made a great find just over the border in Switzerland: delicious wines from the southern-most part of the Ticino, complemented with great food, and well-laid-out vineyard trails.
The Ticino is Italianate Switzerland, with similar weather and feel to it. It is set in a small piece of land which is roughly bounded by Lake Como, Lake Lugano, and Lake Maggiore. The beautiful lakes are surrounded by mountains which range away in ridges from the lakes in ever increasing heights, ending in snow-capped peaks. This hike began by the lowest ridge, which is also where the vines begin.
Trail Name: Itinerari Tra I Vigneti 1 (Through the Vineyards 1)
Trail Type: medium distance circuit; on asphalt in urban areas, or hard packed gravel otherwise, with a few stairs or risers in the steep areas; well maintained, and well-marked.
Length: total: 12.5 km/7.8 miles
Convenient to: Chiasso or Lugano, Switzerland; or Como, Italy
Marking: A florescent green triangle on a square purple background, with stylized white grapes in the corner. Alternatively, the same stylized grapes but in purple, on an arrow-shaped yellow marker displaying a hiker. Note: While the green triangle could indicate a mountain-bike route, I noted that following it in the absence of the yellow marker, still kept me on track with my navigation device.
I had to laugh at the dog. Just yards from the start of this 99.1 kilometer wine trail (my longest yet), the trail inclined dizzyingly, twisting up and away from Freiburg’s historic old center. Yet a little dog, not much bigger than a cat really, trotted past me, his tiny jacket proclaiming “Yes I can.”
A bit further along this trail, I came across a group of preschoolers on an outing: each one bearing a backpack no less than a third his size. Thus inspired, I thought: I can do this entire trail, in spite of the several challenges it presented.
Online research can produce some great finds, and this trail was one of them. Searching for a day hike in the Wuerzburg area: something around 15-25 kilometers, wine-themed, and through well-known, scenic territory, turned up nothing for me. A major disappointment because Wuerzburg is one of my favorite cities, with its architectural gems, unparalleled setting on the river, and a well-established wine culture, that naturally attracts good food. So I turned my queries to the other side of the Maindreieck, to the “wine island” and Volkach area.
My hits included the Panoramaweg. Not a title implying a wine-themed trail, but that was exactly what it was: a trail through several of the more famous vineyards in the Volkach area, wine-tasting opportunities, and a wine learning trail along the way. And, as advertised: this trail had magnificent panoramas throughout the trail.
Trail Type: A mid-distance trail or circuit; some medium-difficulty ascents; almost exclusively hard-packed gravel or paved; well maintained and fairly well marked.
Length: totals:
Circuit: 15 kilometers/9.3 miles
Trail: 20 kilometers/12.5 miles
Convenient to: Wuerzburg, Franconia, Germany
Marking: Orange background with a white stylized eye