Category Archives: Hiking

Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Traumrunde Huettenheim-Seinsheim: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Traumrunde Huettenheim-Seinsheim

Trail Type:

Short-distance circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved or hard-packed, marking on the trail fairly good

Length:

Total – 8.7 kilometers/ 5.4 miles

Convenient to:

Ippesheim, Franconia, Germany

Marking:

Square with white background, and red lettering reading “Traumrunde Huettenheim-Seinsheim”

Sign: TraumRunde Huettenheim-Seinsheim

 

Trail Description:

A meandering circuit, with moderate ascents and descents, as it circles the irregular upper contours of a vine-planted hill on the southwestern edge of the large Steigerwald Nature Park

Trailhead:

Can be anywhere on a circuit, but from a parking perspective, the parking area just below the Weinparadies Scheune is a convenient place to start.

Parking:

Bullenheim: Follow the signs to the Weinparadiesscheune, and before arriving, you will see a small area for hikers’ parking

Public Transportation Options:

Bus: Available to surrounding villages (Bullenheim, Seinsheim, Huettenheim), but not practical

Suggested Stages: (Not applicable)

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Clockwise)

Huettenheim: Jewish Cemetery, Vineyards, two little ponds, forest; Kapellberg overlook, Kunigundenkapelle, scenic overlook, parking lot, Weinparadiesscheune Seinsheim; Steinbruch am Kunigundenwald, picnic area, Tannenberg Kreuz, Wanderhuette am Juedischen Friedhof

Representative Trail Photos:

Representative Trail Section in Forest Areas
Trail Surface: Unpaved

Restrooms:

(Only observed at the WeinparadiesScheune)

Attractions on or near Trail:

Some wine education tables located intermittently along the trail.

Tasting along the Trail:

Weinparadiesscheune Seinsheim, directly on the trail

Small wineries and taverns in Bullenheim, Seinsheim and Huettenheim, all slightly off the trail

Alternative Options:

Hiking: TCW 49: Durch Fraenkische Weinparadies: a 12.9 kilometer circuit, through much of the same area, but, more challenging ascents and descents, and about 2 miles longer. See https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/wanderung/steigerwald/tcw-49-durchs-fraenkische-weinparadies/227470702/

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.ippesheim.de/

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/wanderung/fraenkisches-weinland/traumrunde-huettenheim-seinsheim/9552201/#dm=1

Comments:

Few parking lots, per se, just parking on the edges of lanes. So please be conscientious and respectful when parking road-side in the villages or vineyards.

 

France, Hiking

Ramblings in Rabastens

 

Rabastens, and the Gaillac wine region that it forms a part of, is an unexpected delight. My first time in this southwestern wine region, one of France’s oldest, left me charmed. Toulouse is the regional hub, fascinating in its own right, as is nearby Albi. Rabastens, though, in spite of its proximity to both, retains its quiet rural quality. Not that the town wasn’t hopping on a very crowded market day last June!  Local fruit and veg, as well as bottles or cases of local wines, from in the Rive Droite district of the Gaillac wine region, were on offer direct from vintners. That, of course, is why  I was there.

The Old Vine Yet Lives

The trail I rambled (hike is an overly energetic word for this easy, short itinerary), began on the outskirts of town, at the local wine cooperative. Fortunately, given the crowds at the market, I found plenty of parking options on that end of town. Like the cooperative, this trail focused on vintners and their wines: Amedee, being a former vintner. Shortly after parking, I (and Marco, my hiking buddy for this trip), were passing along vines, enjoying the song of the birds and the buzz of cicadas, brought out by the heat.

Vines in the Gaillac Wine Region

Making a turn uphill, we followed a grassy trail devoid of vines on one side. Instead, splashes of color from myriad wild flowers, all in full bloom that day, popped out against the grasses. The variety of flowers and their abundance were amazing. Focused on photographing the flowers, (and Marco, a hunter, on wildlife tracks) we had little notice of much else. It wasn’t until near the top of the hill that we turned to admire the rest of the scenery.

Hot Pink on a Hot Day

There, to the south, were snow-capped Pyrenees! They didn’t photograph well, due to haze. Haze likely caused by the multitude of rivers that pass between the trail in Rabastens and the mountains. Rabastens lies along the Tarn, which with the Hers and Ariege flow into the Garonne not far to the west, making this area a real watershed. Additionally, it is easy to see why grapes do well here: gentle ridges rise and fall from here to the mountains, and the south-facing slopes are great for vine-planting.

Snow-capped Mountains in Haze

Once on top, the trail turned almost 180 degrees, and headed downhill, through a little draw created by a break in the ridgeline. A stable, then finally an old farm house appeared. After a few more meters, a dovecote appeared. These famed dovecotes, some hundreds of years old and lovingly maintained, show an amazing breadth of style and architecture! Centuries ago, vintners used pigeon droppings to ameliorate the soil around the vines. We walked under a canopy of trees, enjoying the architecture and a respite from sun. In no time, we’d returned to the cooperative for a wine-tasting, and Rabastens, for a well-earned lunch!

 

 

France, Hiking, Nutshell

Les Pas d’Amédée le Vigneron: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Dans les Pas d’Amédée le Vigneron

Trail Type: Short-distance circuit; well-maintained with hard (paved or packed earth) surfaces; marking for this itinerary is pretty good, but not always present.

Length:

Total – 7 kilometers/4.3 miles

Convenient to: Toulouse, Albi, Montauban, or Gaillac, Occitanie, France

Marking:

Signs specific to the trail (see above and below), as well as the ubiquitous French yellow bar markings

Marking for the Trail

 

Trail Description: This mostly gentle walk through vineyards and fields in and around Rabastens, a town  in the Gaillac wine region, provided lovely views, and several opportunities to sample the wines.

Trailhead:

Official: Rabastens, Vinovalle, Ave de l’Hermitage

Mine : Rabastens, Rue de la Croix Blanche (where the tail leading to the circuit begins)

Parking:

Rabastens: on the shoulder along Avenue de l’Hermitage, and along wider sections of the Chemin de l’Hermitage,

Rabastens: near the school – Ave de la Croix Blanche, (usually full, but empty during school vacations)

Rabastens:  Rue des Abreuvoirs, a large central official parking lot, mostly closed during market days, and a kilometer from the trail

Public Transportation Options:

SNCF, the national train system, has a station in Rabastens connecting it with Toulouse and beyond

Suggested Stages:

Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Rabastens: Cave, Ave de l’Hermitage, Chemin de l’Hermitage, R. des Ormes, R. des Clarisses, cross Rte de Saurs right to Chemin de la Tremege (Alternatively id’d: Ave de la Croix Blanche), path (La Dressiere) behind school back onto Chemin de la Tremege ; left onto path (250 m before the “t” insection) through vines, onto Las Bordes, stay right at y (350m past plant); sharp turn south/left, Fourtet: almost to Rte 2/Rte de Salvagnac, but just before it, turn left onto narrow Tremege Basse/Cote de la Tremege (by dumpsters); at school, retrace steps to Cave.

Representative Trail Photos:

Sample Section of Trail
Representative Trail Surface

Restrooms:

None observed

Attractions on or near Trail:

(See below)

Tasting along the Trail:

Vinovalle/Vignerons de Rabastens, a local cooperative

Domaine in Ventis, Les Fontaines de Cavalade, both are just off the trail and sell directly at local markets

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Vignes et Clochers, an eight kilometer long circuit trail, starting north of the center of Lisle-sur-Tarn (about five miles northeast of Rabastens), on D18/Camin de Tolze, Alternatively, Lisle-sur-Tarn also has the 11 kilometer Le Vignoble Lislois circuit trail, beginning right on the northern outskirts of the old town

Car: Circuit du Vignoble Gaillacois, Route des Vins de Gaillac, ask local travel offices for help mapping your route

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.la-toscane-occitane.com/

Trail specific:  https://www.france-randos.com/randonnee/rabastens/tarn-81/dans-les-pas-damedee-le-vigneron

Comments:

A very easy walk in a quiet corner of rural France, albeit only 30 kilometers from Toulouse!

 

Germany, Hiking

Fuerstenbergblick: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Nr 22 – Fuerstenbergblick

Trail Type: Short distance circuit trail; well-maintained and mostly paved or hard-packed earthen trail, marking on the trail is mostly good, but not always exclusively specific to this trail as other trails follow along it as well.

Length:

Total – 7 kilometers/4.3 miles

Convenient to: Bingen, or Koblenz, Germany

Marking: Nr 22, or follow signs to next itinerary point

Trail Description: This is an easy trail through a little visited area of the famous Middle Rhine. It passes through a couple of wooded areas, but mostly vineyards, with clear views of the vineyards and castles on the opposite (and more visited) side of the Rhine, and a lovely riverside walk to close the circuit.

Trailhead:

Niederheimbach, Rheinstrasse riverside walking path

Parking:

Niederheimbach: A few street-side places where parking is not prohibited along the Rheinstrasse or Heimbachtal streets

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: Very frequent train service (DeutscheBahn (DB) regional train RB26) connects Niederheimbach with Mainz to the south, or Cologne to the north with stops all along the Mittel Rhein including Bingen, Boppard, St Goar, Koblenz, amongst others.

Bus: See the Rhein-Naehe Nahverkehrsverbund (RNN) website for details of bus travel through this area

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Clockwise)

Niederheimbach: Heimbachtal, then turn up to Rheinblick, vineyards, lookout point “Tempelchen”, woods, Rheindiebach: Cross Rheingoldstrasse/K27, vineyards, to and past Burg Fuerstenberg ruins, pass above the cemetery, Rheingoldstr, Mainzerstr, pass under B9 and train tracks, continue on the waterside path back to Niederheimbach

Representative Trail Photos:

Sample Trail Section Through Woods

 

Grassy Trail Surfaces in Places

 

Stairs to the Castle

Restrooms:

Rheindiebach: along the river, just north of the pedestrian underpass

Attractions on or near Trail:

Just lots of iconic Rhine River scenery!

Tasting along the Trail:

Niederheimbach and Oberheimbach both have guesthouses and restaurants that serve local wines. Niederheimbach even has one right along the river!

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Reblausweg (Nr 13) / Route 1 Panoramaweg, an 8 kilometer circuit trail beginning/ending at Niederheimbach. See the Nutshell here.

Biking: Rheinradweg, is a multi-day tour following the Rhine, but an easy day trip, with lots of stops for photos, is from Koblenz to Bingen am Rhein, or vice versus. It passes through Niederheimbach, which is one of the trains stops along the river route. See the Nutshell here.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.romantischer-rhein.de/ and https://niederheimbach.welterbe-mittelrheintal.de/

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/wanderung/romantischer-rhein/nhb-nr.-22-fuerstenbergblick-rundwanderweg/116090787/  or https://www.niederheimbach.info/media/files/nhb-wanderweg_022_k-2022-07.pdf

Comments:

Short, easy, but lovely.

 

Hiking, Italy

From Vineyards to the Heavens

 

The town of Klausen, known as Chiusa in Italian, lies at the bottom of a river valley. The Eisack River runs from near the Austrian border to Bozen, where it joins the Etsch River. During its southward flow, it runs along the west bank of Klausen, surrounded by some of the most impressive Dolomite peaks in this area.  But, key in this description is the “bottom of the Eisack river valley.” Therefore, most hikes in this area will experience some serious ascents at some point.

The Eisack River

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Hiking, Italy, Nutshell

Trail in a Nutshell: Saebener Rundweg

 

Trail Name:  Saebener Rundweg

Trail Type: Very short-distance circuit; well-maintained with hard (paved or packed earth) surfaces, with some cobblestones; mostly good marking for this itinerary.

Length:

Total – 3.0 kilometers/miles

Convenient to: Bozen (Bolzano), Brixen (Bressanone), Italy

Marking:

White over red horizontal bars

Signage along the Saebener Weg

Follows written signs for “Keschtnweg” and Saebener Rundweg

Saebener Rundweg and Keschtnweg Signage

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Germany, Hiking

Steigerwald’s Stellar Vineyards and Villages

 

The Steigerwald, in Franconia, is a wonderful area. Unlike the other wine districts in the region, the Steigerwald is away from the Main River, and does experience a bit more variance in the weather. One March, hiking the Steigerwald on the first weekend of March, I failed miserably due to snow and ice. (See that story here.) Another March, a year and three weeks’ time difference, sunny skies and dry trails resulted in one of the most memorable hikes I ever completed in Germany.

I began in Castell, a delightful village with a good reputation for its wines. It is nestled at the base of low, vine-covered hills. This iconic village comes complete with a castle in its park, narrow streets and lanes filled with historic houses, and a church. But it was not alone – all the villages on the trail of this hike were just as charming.

Castell: Castle and Church

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Germany, Hiking

Steigerwald Weinwanderweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Steigerwald Weinwanderweg

Trail Type: Long distance; almost exclusively paved or at least hard-packed surfaces, well maintained, fairly well marked.

Length: Total: 42.75 kilometers/ miles

Convenient to: Kitzingen, Bavaria, Germany

Marking: Green grapes on a white background, scored through by a wavy red line

Signage: Steigerwald Weinwanderweg

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France, Hiking

Grand Grapes and Castles

 

Selestat, an important town for centuries throughout the Middle Ages, has numerous attractions for visitors, both viticultural and historical. The Velo Route du Vignoble d’Alsace (the Alsace Vineyard Bike Trail) first brought me here. (See the Nutshell). The trail’s northern half is somewhat hilly. So, by the time I got to the villages in the foothills just outside Selestat, between Dambach-la-Ville’s Grand Cru Frankstein vineyard and Kintzheim’s Grand Cru Praelatenberg vineyard, I was delighted with the flat stretch through vineyards overlooked by castle-topped mountains. I decided then to return to hike the area someday.

After years of remodeling, Selestat’s Bibliotheque Humaniste (Humanist Library) finally reopened, and I began researching local wine-themed trails. I first found the Vignoble de Selestat trail. (Online, the Circuit de Piemont and the Circuit du Vignoble refer to the same itinerary.) So, after visiting the library in the morning to see Merovingian and Carolingian manuscripts, I headed a mile away to the trailhead in Chatenois.

Continue reading Grand Grapes and Castles →