Category Archives: Hiking

Of Wine and Women

 

A castle stands atop an unusually steep, vine-covered hill,  just east of the German city of Heilbronn in wine region of Wuerttemberg. Famous for having defied the Emperor, the little town of Weinsberg has a unique story. Was it the wine that inspired them?

Weibertreu Castle

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Weinsberg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Wiesen, Wein und Treue Weiber (Fields, Wine and True Women)

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit; varied surfaces (grass, dirt, paved); mostly well-maintained, but the route itself is not specifically marked.

Length:  13.5 kilometers/8.5 miles

Convenient to: Heilbronn, Germany

Marking: None uniquely specific to the trail’s itinerary. The photo below merely indicates first marking. (See the itinerary below.)

Red Dot Marking

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On Hallowed Ground

 

Hallowed sites exist in many forms throughout the world, and whether they are religious, ethnic or historic, all are sacred to its devotees. I recently visited such an area.  It is revered by those who prefer powerful, age-worthy, Rhone red wines; who worship them, sadly often from afar, because the prices can reach astounding levels. This is the story of a pilgrimage to Tain.

Tain, or Tain l’Hermitage, as the town has become officially known, contains within its boundaries the appellation known as Hermitage, one of France’s most prestigious wine appellations. More like a village than a small town, it has a history that predates even the Romans. It’s reputation as a wine center is even more august, attracting pilgrims from every corner of the world.

Tain l’Ermitage and its Vineyards

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Sur les Pas de Gambert: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Sur les Pas de Gambert

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; surfaces vary from paved to rutted dirt to pebble on stone, mostly maintained, and fairly well marked.

Length: 4 kilometers/ 2.5 miles

Convenient to: Vienne or Lyon, France

Marking:

Yellow rectangles indicating direction of travel

Yellow Rectangle Sign

 

White panels, with a large black colored number, QR code and photo collage of Louis Gambert

Trail Signs: Sur les Pas de Gambert

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Wine by the Sea

 

The sea, hiking and wines are three of my favorite things to experience. However, it is not always easy to find a place where waves meet the vines. It is rarer still to find well-marked and maintained trails in such spots. Serendipitiously though, it is possible to savor all three in Collioure.

A recent trip to the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France led to the town of Collioure, a little gem of a town. Set on a beautiful bay, it is famous for its narrow, atmospheric streets in the old town, leading to one of its old forts. It is also famous for its wines. The vineyards surrounding the town produce wines both for the AOC Collioure and for the Banyuls AOC. Finally, it has some delightful trails through the hills and vineyards for hikers and mountain-bike riders to enjoy.

Beach, Windmill, Vineyards and Castle
Beach, Windmill, Vineyards and Castle

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Vignoble de Collioure: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Vignoble de Collioure

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; well-maintained and mostly hard surfaces (paved or hard-packed), with some rocky areas, good marking on the trail

Length: Total – 9.6 kilometers/ just short of 6 miles

Convenient to: Collioure, Perpignan, France

Marking: Yellow rectangles on the trail, reinforced with signposts identifying the exact location. (See the white lettering on top of the post.)

Trail Marker Coll de Mollo
Trail Marker Coll de Mollo

 

Yellow Trail Marker
Yellow Trail Marker

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To the North: The Wii Wegli

 

At this point on my hike along the Wi Wegli, I had no doubt that years from now, all my wine-themed hiking experiences considered, the Wii Wegli in the southern Baden wine region, will rank in my top three. This long-distance hiking trail provided a delightful hiking experience as well as a great tasting experience in one. From south (by Basel, Switzerland) to north (by Freiburg) great experiences awaited over every hill, and in every village. By the time I reached Muellheim, I had not realized that some of the best were yet to come.

I left Niederweiler, overshadowed from on high by the ancient Celtic, Roman and medieval edifices of Badenweiler, and climbed an equally formidable slope on the other side of the village, the Roemerberg. The climb was mostly through vineyards. Emerging from the forests that crown the top of the Roemerberg, beginning the descent, I spotted the village of Britzingen. Like so many of its neighboring villages, it is set in a hollow, following along a rushing mountain stream, and surrounded by green. However, the full magical effect of these discoveries came shortly afterwards as I wandered through eerily still Muggardt, the sole lane winding up through the hamlet on its way to vineyards.

Muggardt's Main Street
Muggardt’s Main Street

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Wii Wegli: Trail in a Nutshell II

 

Trail Name:  Wii Wegli

Trail Type: Long distance; well-maintained and usually paved or hard pack, marking on the trail very good throughout.

Length:  81.6 kilometers/ 50.5 miles (See note below)

Convenient to: Freiburg, or Weil am Rhein, Germany; Basel, Switzerland

Marking: Yellow grape cluster on a red diamond on white background (Note: many times the red has faded to white. Another note: In the final segment, the trail often follows the Jacobusweg: yellow cockleshell on blue)

Wii Wegli Trail Marking
Wii Wegli Trail Marking

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From the South: The Wii Wegli

 

I have hiked many wine trails, in many different wine regions. And I have tasted many wines from those regions. But rarely does a trail combine both a wonderful hiking experience and tasting experience in one. For sheer variety of landscape, and expansive vistas of much of the southern Rhine River Valley, the Wii Wegli (dialect for: little wine trail) is a fantastic long-distance hiking experience. Located in the southwestern corner of Germany, the Markgraeflerland is a wine district in Baden’s wine region – one with excellent wines. From south (by Basel, Switzerland) to north (by Freiburg) great hiking and wine experiences awaited over every hill, and in every village.

View of the Rhine
View of the Rhine

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Wii Wegli: Trail in a Nutshell I

 

Trail Name:  Wii Wegli

Trail Type: Long distance hiking trail; very well-maintained and almost exclusively paved or hard-pack, marking on the trail is consistent, and pretty good throughout (although maps are necessary).

Length: 81.6 kilometers/50.5 miles (See comment below)

Convenient to: Freiburg, or Weil am Rhein, Germany, Basel, Switzerland

Marking: Yellow grape cluster on a red diamond on a white background (Note: many times, the red has faded to white. Another note: In the final segment, the trail often follows the Jacobusweg: yellow cockleshell on blue background)

Wii Wegli Trail Marking
Wii Wegli Trail Marking

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