Category Archives: Hiking

From Water to Wine

 

Bardolino, a town with a wine named after it, is a pretty and popular town on the shores of Lake Garda, in northern Italy. One of the southern Alpine lakes, Lake Garda and Bardolino are especially crowded in the summer. But in October, it is much quieter, and the weather is cooler, yet still sunny. In other words, ideal for hiking.

East of the built up stretch along the waterfront, the land rises, and grape vines begin. The town of Costermano, set in an area of rolling ridges, was previously drive by territory for me, as I headed to the lakeside towns. Big mistake! Costermano, beyond its main street, has timeless farm villas set in quiet scenery, nice restaurants, and beautiful vistas of Alps and lake, if you know where to go.  Costermano also has a trail for wine enthusiasts that provides the perfect opportunity to explore this area beyond the waterfront, where the landscape retains its bucolic setting, and grapes for Bardolino wine grow as they have here for centuries, if not millennia.

Mountain View from the Trail

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Giro dei Vigneti: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Giro dei Vigneti

Trail Type: Medium distance circuit; well-maintained and almost all hard surface (either paved or hard packed earth); Marking on the trail is rather good.

Length:

Total – 10 kilometers/ 6 miles

Convenient to: Bardolino, Italy

Marking: Stylized black hiker on white background, on brown signs with trail name in white letters

Giro dei Vigneti Sign

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High Rhine Wine Time

 

Following hard on the heels of the longest circuit hike I have done to date, comes the shortest one. Both were in the German wine region of Baden, albeit one in the most southern district of the region, and the other in one of the northern-most districts. Both were fun to hike, although I must confess I found this trail more to my taste aesthetically.

Hills by Hohentengen

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Durch die Reben des Oelberg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Durch die Reben des Oelberg (Through Oelberg Vineyards)

Trail Type: A short distance circuit; well-maintained, but with varying surfaces, from grass to tarmac, marking on the trail is generic, but good throughout.

Length:

Total – 6.8 kilometers/ 4.25 miles

Convenient to: Waldshut-Tiengen, Germany; Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Marking:

Yellow diamond (See featured photo, and comment section below.)

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Manna on the Mannaberg

 

The Kraichgau is a small corner in northern Baden. Quiet villages tuck into the steep folds of hills, following little valleys, generally along small creeks. It is spiritually far removed from the nearby big urban conglomerations, which you can occasionally see from the trail, in the distance. Pockets of vineyards lie among fields, and below tree lines, or on the sheltered sides of rolling ridges. The vineyards here are small, but well-tended. They are truly the agricultural manna of this area of Germany’s Baden wine region.

Distant Cities

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Weinwanderweg Mannaberg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Weinwanderweg Mannaberg

Trail Type: Long distance; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved or hard surface throughout, marking on the trail good in places, and missing altogether in others

Length:

Total – 21 kilometers/ 13 miles

Convenient to: Heidelberg, or Wiesloch, Germany

Marking: Blue grapes in a white circle on an orange background

Sign: Mannaberg

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A Trail for the Senses

 

Local cuisine develops best from local produce. Local wine best complements local cuisine. In this part of southern France, lying in the leeward side of the Pyrenees Mountains, the warm, sunny and dry climate is such that herbs grow wild, and grapes grow well. Both are flavorful and intense. Taking advantage of the natural conditions, the local tourism office developed a short, educational, circuit trail focusing mostly on the local vegetation, set in patches between the vines, through and around the village of Cucugnan.

Corbieres-Queribus AOC

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Sentier de la Fontaine: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Sentier de la Fontaine

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; Somewhat roughly maintained; Marking on the trail is limited.

Length: 3.5 kilometers/2 miles

Convenient to:  None, but the closest big city is Perpignan

Marking: Wooden signpost with a pointing finger, with the trail name inscribed, at the beginning and end of the trail, (see the featured photo)  and educational signboards, see below, along the way.

Educational Signboard

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Empires Past and Present

Charlemagne brought wine to Ingelheim, and I followed a trail to Ingelheim, wine, and Charlemagne. Thus, in one fell swoop, I managed to satisfy my wine, hiking, and early medieval history passions in this small town on a partly sunny afternoon.

The Carolingian and earlier Merovingian times in Western Europe have always interested me. So when I heard about the wonderful exposition of the remains of one of Charlemagne’s favorite palaces, I had to visit. In addition to a highly focused and informative museum on the palace, the great signboards at exposed walls throughout the town, and outlines in stone of once-extant huge palace structures, help bring the old palace alive, as it was in Charlemagne’s time.

Ingelheim: Old Palace Ruins

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Hiwweltour Bismarckturm: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Hiwweltour Bismarckturm

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit; trail surface variable – from earthen to paved, includes stairs, well maintained overall; the route itself is fairly well-marked.

Length: 10.3 kilometers/6.4 miles

Convenient to: Mainz, Germany

Marking: A cursive lower-case “h” on a half-blue/half-green rectangular-shaped background

Hiwweltour Signage

 

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