Category Archives: Hiking

Musikantenbuckel Wanderweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Musikantenbuckel Wanderweg

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved with tarmac or concrete, marking on the trail good throughout

Length:

Total – 7.5 kilometers/ miles

Convenient to: Bad Durkheim, Germany

Marking: Musician playing a horn.

Musikantenbuckel Signage

 

Trail Description:

A family-friendly, short circuit passes up and along a gentle slope, through the village and vineyards, (meaning it is almost completely unshaded), with views over the village and valley, and out to hills. This trail is paved for almost all of it, and where not, there are paved alternatives.

Trailhead:

Freinsheim – Hauptstrasse, at the old Rathaus

Parking:

Freinsheim – Parkplatz P3, Weisenheimerstr

Freinsheim –  festival parking area along L522/Talweide. Note: only during the festival weekend!

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: Deutsche Bahn regional trains provide frequent regional train service to Freinsheim, from Gruenstadt to the north, and points south, including Neustadt an der Weinstrasse and Bad Duerkheim.

Bus: Buses connect Freinsheim with Bad Durkheim, and other towns in the area. Check VRN.de for schedules to and from Freinsheim.

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Clockwise)

Freinsheim: by the old Rathaus, Korngasse-Wallstrasse-2 Querstr-Wenjenstr, Schubertstr-Franz-Liszt-Str, path straight across, the left along L522, past Sportplatz (soccer field), Orchards and vineyards, and the Weinbergsgarten (rest area with benches and picnic table), cross L455, parallel L455, then cross it again, vineyards, cross path across L522/Talweide

Representative Trail Photo:

Trail Surface: 98% of the Way

 

Restrooms:

Freinsheim, off Baerengasse

Musikantenbuckel, porta-potties on the trail. Note: only during the festival weekend.

Attractions on or near Trail:

While Freinsheim has no wine-themed museums or exhibits, there are several architectural features of historical interest in the old part of the village.

Tasting along the Trail:

The village of Freinsheim has many wineries (Weingut); and on the day of the Rotweinwanderung, there are half a dozen or so vintners with huts along the trail

Alternative Options:

Hiking: While the Deutsche Weinstrasse Wanderweg, the 96 kilometer-long (almost 60 miles) hiking trail from Bockenheim to the border town of Schweigen-Rechtenbach, passes near Freinsheim, it does not pass through it. Instead, Freinsheim offers a series of short, mostly family-friendly circuits, such as the Wanderweg “Schwarzes Kreuz”, through a named vineyard area.

Biking: Radweg Deutsche Weinstrasse, the 95 kilometer-long (almost 60 miles) cycling trail from Bockenheim to the border town of Schweigen-Rechtenbach), passes through Freinsheim.

Car: Deutsche Weinstrasse, the thematic car route from Bockenheim to the border town of Schweigen-Rechtenbach, passes near Freinsheim.

Additional Information:

Regional: http://www.freinsheim.de/tourismus_wein_und_kultur/uebernachten.html

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/wanderung/pfalz/freinsheim–musikantenbuckelrundweg-durch-die-weinreben/3321889/#dm=1

Comments:

End of January each year, the Musikantenbuckel area is the venue for the Rotweinwanderung, a walking wine and culinary festival. During this weekend, the Rotweinwanderung Weinwanderweg generally follows the same itinerary as the Musikantenbuckel Wanderweg, but is a bit shorter.

Musikantenbuckel refers to a named vineyard parcel. Freinsheim also has two others: Schwarzes Kreuz and Oschelskopf, with a hiking trail through them, the Schwarzes Kreuz trail. Combining this trail with the Musikantenbuckel would cover all of Freinsheim’s named vineyards, and provide a longer (about 14 kilometer) easy hike.

Arriving by train will add about 900 meters. From there follow: Bahnhofstr-Hauptstr, to arrive at the Rathaus, the official start.

 

Cote Chalonnaise Vines and Valleys

 

Dramatic terrain, bucolic villages, and an unusual varietal wine – this was what I found in Bouzeron. It is a small village in the Cote Chalonnaise, within view of the Cote d’Or, Burgundy’s most famous hillside. But Cote Chalonnaise wines, and indeed the region itself, is no poor second. In fact, with unspoiled villages, a wealth of architecture, terrains, and good hiking trails, as well as a co-equal passion for food and wine, I was thoroughly delighted with my all-too-brief visit.

The village of Bouzeron and the Vignes et Vallees trail around it, epitomized this sentiment. There was plenty of parking in the village, so that is where I left the car, early one winter morning. Starting from the village guaranteed that I would be climbing for ten minutes or so, which helped warm me up. Before I knew it, I was atop the Montagne de la Folie (or Remenot), looking east over Rully, and out toward Chalon sur Saone. It was a beautiful spot.

Atop Mont Remenot

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Vignes et Vallees: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Vignes et Vallees (Aka : Au Fil des Vignes et Vallees)

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit; well-maintained, surfaces vary from road, to grass, to dirt paths, to rock rib, marking on the trail rather good

Length: 13.25 kilometers/8.25 miles

Convenient to: Chalon-sur-Saone, Santenay, France

Marking: Two types, long distance and more local (red and white bars, or red and yellow bars, respectively), as well locational and directional signposts. (See featured photograph above)

Marking for the GR Trails

 

Marking for GRP Trails

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A Godly Wine

 

Mercurey, named after the Roman God Mercury, god of commerce trade and travelers, was a fortuitous discovery for this traveler of wine country. Both the village and the eponymous appellation lie in the Cote Chalonnaise sub-region of the Burgundy wine region. The village made its entry into history as a way-stop on the Roman trade route leading to Autun from Chalon-sur-Saone, graced by a small temple to the god of trade. Presumably, this route proceeded along the same straight trajectory as the modern road through the center of town, alongside a steam. But the village’s real piece of luck was to be set in natural amphitheater. While the road follows the stream in the bottom land, vines cover the slopes all around.

Grande Rue, Mercurey

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On Witches and Wine

 

On a dark December day, Christmas Eve 2017, the raw wind cut like a knife atop the Hexen Berg above Winningen. The beautiful views of the Moselle Valley from above, belied an ugly past here. Hexen Berg means Witch Mountain, and here, from 1641 to 1651, many so-called witches were cruelly burned alive during a period of great superstition and intolerance.

Lower Moselle and the Weinhex

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Hexenpfad: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Winninger Hexenpfad

Trail Type: Short distance; well-maintained, varied surfaces (grass, earthen, paved; signage good in some places, but lacking in others along the trail

Length: 8 kilometers/5 miles

Convenient to: Koblenz, Germany

Marking: Red witch on a white background (See photo above.)

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Wine in Saxony

 

Germany’s eastern-most wine producing region is in the region of Saxony, starting not far from the eastern borders Germany shares with Poland and the Czech Republic. Culturally, Saxony has a lot on offer for any culture maven; Historically, from the Carolingian era forward, Saxony played a tremendous role in the political vicissitudes of the German speakers in this region of central Europe, with monuments of all sorts to prove it; Additionally, the Saechsische Schweiz (Saxon Switzerland) region, with its famous rock formations like the Bastei and Lilienstein, provides magnificent hiking trails for visitors to enjoy!

Naturally, the hiking trail I chose was a wine-themed trail. This far east and north, vines usually require a body of water to help moderate the temperatures. In this case, the vineyards primarily flank the right bank of the Elbe River.  The trail itself followed through these vineyards, and through several villages, towns and cities associated with wine-making. This trail, almost 90 kilometers long, covers much of the vineyard area for which this part of Saxony is famous, interrupted, if you will, by the huge city of Dresden. Not having time to complete the whole trail, I had to choose one segment. I had previously visited Dresden, itself an important city culturally and historically, but never got to Meissen, home to the famous porcelain factory. Thus, I decided to start in vineyards on the southern edge of Meissen, and hike to the end of the trail.

Meissen: Castle and Cathedral

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Saxon Wine Trail: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Saxon Wine Trail (Saechsische Weinwanderweg)

Trail Type: Long distance trail; varied surfaces, but mostly paved or hard parked earth, well maintained, and well-marked.

Length:

Total: 88.5 kilometers/55 miles

Last (my) stage: Meissen to Diesbar-Seusslitz: @18 kilometers

Convenient to: Meissen, or Dresden, Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Marking: Red grapes within a red-lined circle on a white background

Sign: Sachsische Weinwanderweg

 

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Blond or Brunette?

 

When I began this hike, I had little idea how delicious the Appellation Cote Rotie wines could be! I had not really considered the potential for difference between a Cote Blonde or Cote Brune wine, especially given the varietals allowed. Once again, I found that hiking this terrain, this “terroir,” opened my horizons in more ways than one.

Snapshot of Ampuis

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Sentier des Vignes: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Sentier des Vignes (a Ampuis)

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; varying surfaces, from tarmac/concrete (about half) to earthen, to loose gravel, fairly well maintained, and fairly well marked.

Length: 7.1 kilometers/4.4 miles

Convenient to: Lyon or Vienne, France

Marking: Black lettering “Ampuis 1” on yellow and white (beginning at Route de la Brocarde)

Trail Marking for Sentier des Vignes

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