Category Archives: Hiking

Entre Vignes et Vallons: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Entre Vignes et Vallons

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; somewhat maintained, with mostly rough surfaces, and no marking on the trail. (See comment below.)

Length:

Total – 9 or 12 kilometers/ 5.6 or 7.5 miles

Convenient to: Sancerre, France

Marking:

None

Continue reading Entre Vignes et Vallons: Trail in a Nutshell

Riesling Wine Wandering

 

Increasingly, wine regions, especially those growing iconic grape varietals, sponsor varietal wine walking trails. Riesling is an especially important varietal in the Rhine River Valley. When I heard of one such trail in the wine region of Baden, I decided to visit.

The Riesling Weg (Trail) is located in the village of Eisental. In this part of the Baden wine region, the Ortenau, Riesling is the single-most cultivated varietal. Riesling can be a challenge to grow, given the lack of sunshine some years, and the steep slopes required to ensure maximal sun exposure when there is any. However, this Riesling trail was not challenging, and is easy enough for the whole family to enjoy.

First, there was the village. Small, compact, and nestled in a hollow, it was an oasis of tranquility. The old nucleus of the village, set around the church and town hall (Rathaus), was untouched by tourism – So laid back that it has only one eatery in the center.

Eisental and the Black Forest

Continue reading Riesling Wine Wandering

Rieslingweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Rieslingweg

Trail Type: Short distance circuit trail; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, very good marking on the trail

Length:

Total – 7.1 kilometers/4.4 miles

Convenient to: Baden-Baden, Germany

Marking: Green grapes with a green leaf on a white (sometimes yellow) background

Riesling Weg Signage

Continue reading Rieslingweg: Trail in a Nutshell

Monkeys and Wine

 

While it might not be true wine, monkeys do consume, quite deliberately, fermented fruit juice found in the wild.

A theme of monkeys and wine drew me to a hike in the Affental, not far from Baden-Baden, Germany. A possible translation of Affen-tal, is Monkey Valley. Wine from this area is duly bottled with a monkey embossing the front of the bottle. I had often wondered about this somewhat incongruous mascot, and a visit to the local cooperative, Affentaler Winzer, provided an opportunity to taste the local wines, and learn more about the viticultural history and practices of the area. The short hike gave me an opportunity to wander through the vineyards of Affental.

Continue reading Monkeys and Wine

Rotweinpfad: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Rotweinpfad

Trail Type: Short distance circuit trail; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, good marking on the trail.

Length:

Total – 3.8 kilometers/2.3 miles

Convenient to: Baden-Baden, Germany

Marking:

Purple grapes with a green leaves on a white (or yellow) background

Rotweinpfad Signage

Continue reading Rotweinpfad: Trail in a Nutshell

A Baroque Wine Combination

 

If you have never seen the Baroque architecture of southern Germany, then you are missing a treat. The extravagance of the forms, the flamboyance of the colors, are not usually found in nature, which is what made such an interesting juxtaposition on this winter hike.

The trail, entitled Wein Barock, presumably intended as its highlights the pilgrimage basilica of Birnau, and the vineyards surrounding it. Equally as impressive to me, was the scenic beauty of the Swiss Alps, and Lake Constance, also enjoyed from this trail.

This trail is set entirely in the township of Uhldingen-Muehlhofen, made up of the villages of Unteruhldingen, Oberuhldingen, and Muehlhofen, which progress respectively, from the lake front to the hills. The circuit officially begins in Oberuhldingen, proceeding from its homey center, and quickly comes to the surrounding countryside.

Oberuhldingen

Continue reading A Baroque Wine Combination

Wein-Barock: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Wein-Barock

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit trail; almost exclusively paved, well maintained, but the marking along the route, while excellent, is not trail specific. (See the Itinerary below for specific itinerary points.)

Length: total: 10 kilometers/ 6 miles

Convenient to: Konstanz, and Friedrichshafen, Germany

Marking:

Yellow rectangular signs with black lettering, indicating direction to major itinerary points. (Not trail specific)

Trail Signage

Continue reading Wein-Barock: Trail in a Nutshell

The Charms of Chamaret

 

The Drome Provencal, set south of Valence in France’s Rhone River Valley, already had spring-like weather when I visited in mid-February. With several fairly easy mountain biking trails suitable for the whole family, I decided to try one that centered around the village of Chamaret.

Sadly though, my bike was not available that day, and not finding a rental (a downside to winter touring), I decided to hike the southern part of the trail, beginning and ending in the village center. I am glad I made that call, for two reasons. The first: my hybrid bike and I would not have done well on part of this trail, and second: a short hike gave me time to explore this charming village.

Chamaret from Grignan

Continue reading The Charms of Chamaret

De Tour en Grotte: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  De Tour en Grotte (southern half only)

Trail Type: Short distance circuit trail; well-maintained and almost exclusively hard-surfaced, either tarmac, earthen or rock surfaces, marking on the trail rather good throughout the southern half. (See comments below)

Length:

Total – 20 kilometers

My segment – @9 kilometers

Convenient to: Grignan, France

Marking: A white 2 on a blue background, accompanied by the VTT (mountain bike) symbol: a triangle (orange) with two same-colored circles.

De Tour en Grotte Signage

Continue reading De Tour en Grotte: Trail in a Nutshell

Singing for Supper

 

When the itinerant musicians of Mackenbach, in the Pfalz, crested the ridge from the northwest, they beheld the town of Freinsheim below. They announced their arrival with lively music, letting the town know they had arrived. Over the next couple of days, they would play, for coins, wine and food. Freinsheim, one of the northern most wine villages on the Deutsche Weinstrasse, has named this section of vineyard the “Musikanten-Buckel”, or the hump of hill where the musicians began to play. Freinsheim is also one of many villages along the Deutsche Weinstrasse that has several festivals throughout the year. Two of them involve “wine wandering”, which is how I came be in the village.

Traditionally, the January wine wandering trail follows mostly along an established trail called the Musikantenbuckel  Wanderweg. But every year, on the last weekend of January, the trail is identified as the Rotweinwanderung (Red wine wandering).  So, on a cold, dark and grey winter afternoon, I, and hundreds of other people, dressed warmly, with sturdy waterproof boots, set off along the trail, which starts in the village.

Freinsheim Center

Continue reading Singing for Supper