Category Archives: Hiking

Hiking, Nutshell, Switzerland

Worrenberg Weinwanderweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Worrenberg Weinwanderweg (AKA: Weinwanderweg am Worrenberg)

Trail Type: Short-distance trail; well-maintained and asphalt or hard-packed surfaces, marking on the trail is okay

Length:

Total – about 3 kilometers/almost 2 miles

Convenient to:

Schaffhausen or Zurich, Switzerland

Marking:

Yellow signs with stylized man in solid black, or “Weinwanderweg” in red letters on a white rectangular sign.

Signage for Worrenberg WWW

 

Trail Description: A very short and gentle hike through quiet, countryside, with vistas of rolling hills in the distance. Approximately one-quarter of the whole trail is shaded, as it passes through woods. The rest is in sun. Suitable for families with elementary-aged children, and very suitable for baby carriages (in all but a small section in the woods, where for less than 100 meters the going is a bit rougher) as well.

Trailheads:

Start: Berg am Irchel: Dorfstr

End: Volken: Flaachtalstr

Parking:

Parking spots are here and there along the lanes, and near fields on the outskirts of the villages.

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: The nearest station is in Andelfingen, with commuter service trains from Schaffhausen and Winterthur

Bus: The Swiss Postbus lines 670, 675 and 677 service these villages

Suggested Stages:

Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (West-East)

Berg am Irchel: Dorfstr, Schlossstr, fields, along stream; Flaach: cross Oberdorfstr, Andelfingerstr, through vines on and up a slope; Volken: Glemettenstr, Flaachtalstr

Representative Trail Photos:

Surface Sample outside Villages

 

 

Restrooms: None observed

Attractions on or near Trail:

None observed

Tasting along the Trail:

Weingut Bauer in Berg am Irchel; Weingut Kilchsperger in Flaach; Weingut Zur Post (also a tavern) in Volken.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Other hiking possibilities are available from local tourist offices/information points.

Biking:

-The 18 kilometer/11 milesWorrenberg-Thur bike tour follows from Flaach, over the Worrenberg, along the Thur River, then a bit along the Rhine River before returning to Flaach. Listed as medium plus difficulty.

-Part of the 90 kilometer-long Ostschweizer Weinroute (Wine Route), passes through Ossingen, about 10 km/6 miles away, on its way from Sankt Gallen to Schaffhausen, and the Rheinfalls.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.zuercher-weinland.ch/

Trail specific: http://www.worrenberg.net/Weinwanderweg/

Comments:

None

 

 

Germany, Hiking

Hiking Rings Around Kaiserberg

 

Above the small town of Ringsheim, after a long, but steady, climb up the Kaiserberg, I took in my first view of the distant mountains. Off to the west, over 30 kilometers (18.5 miles) away, were the Vosges Mountains in Alsace, standing out against a clear sky. Off to the east were the mountains of Germany’s best-known forest, the Black Forest. I took some time to try to get good photos, thinking the opportunity was too good to pass. I was there, the sun was in the right position, and the atmospherics were mostly clear. Little did I know that I would cross close to this spot again, to complete the second part of this circuit trail, which was laid out like a rough figure eight. In fact, there were several circuit trails in this hiking paradise.

Black Forest Scene

 

So twice the hike to the top of the Kaiserberg, which really is not as challenging as it may seem. On the plus side, I had two opportunities to take in the great views. But the Kaiserberg is really famous in this area of the Breisgau for its vines and wines. In fact, the official start of this trail is in Ettenheim, a town at the foot of the Kaiserberg that attracted a famous French nobleman and bon-vivant: Bishop (later Cardinal) Louis Rene Edouard de Rohan. Maybe it was the wines?

Ettenheim

 

The situation of the Kaiserberg and Ettenheim is good for capturing sun and warmth, being high enough – but not too high – in the foothills of the Black Forest, with good and long western and southern exposure to sun. The scenery was certainly an attraction as well: dark green of the Black Forest, little blue mill ponds and the peaked mountain tops on both sides of the valley. Some of these were still snow covered. But to my delight, flowers were already blooming along the trail, a surefire indicator of imminent spring weather.

Daffodils in Early March

 

It was still too early though for the taverns on the trail to be open. (Normally, taverns on trails close in winter, and don’t open until at least Easter or April, whichever comes first.) Pity, as the trail passed two, each looking equally inviting. One was close to the highest point of the Kaiserberg, next to an observation tower. The other, set in a traditional style building, was nestled further down the Kaiserberg in a hollow, where it was warm and sunny, and sheltered from wind for the most part. Very gemuetlich! Both offer local wines, as there are several vintners in the surrounding towns of Ringsheim, Ettenheim and Herbolzheim, producing some of the best wines in the Breisgau wine district.

A Wine Tavern on the Trail

 

Fortunately though, the trail ends (and begins) by the Weingut Weber (Weber Winery). While their “wine lounge” with its attractive  view from the patio was also closed, at least the shop and restaurant were open. Maybe Cardinal de Rohan knew something, or maybe he started something, but it is certainly true that one can eat, drink and even hike well in this bucolic corner of the Breisgau.

Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

 Weinbergwanderung Kaiserberg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Weinbergwanderung Kaiserberg AKA Weinwanderwege am Kaiserberg

Trail Type: Short distance figure eight circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, fairly good marking on the trail.

Length: 9.75 kilometers/6 miles

Convenient to: Offenburg, Freiburg, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany

Marking: Small, yellow aluminum signs with black lettering and stylized black grapes on the side. (Bottom three in the photo below)

Many Trails, Many Signs on the Kaiserberg

 

Trail Description:

This moderately challenging hike (with several inclines and declines), covers the Kaiserberg, a hilly and wonderfully rural area set in the foothills of the Black Forest, yet not far from more urban areas. The biggest towns of Herbolzheim and Ettenheim sponsor several marked wine-themed trails, to include a short wine education trail through the vineyards. This trail, sponsored originally by the Weber winery, joins segments of these shorter trails to make a longer circuit, suitable for families young and old, and even cyclists.

Trailhead:

Ettenheim, Im Offental

Parking:

Ettenheim has a number of small parking lots, not too far from the trail. The closest is on Schwarzwaldstrasse

A small, unimproved parking lot at the top of the main Kaiserberg hill may be reached via Ringsheim’s Bergwerkstrasse.

See the additional comment below about parking.

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: Regional trains DB and SBB) frequently service the Ettenheim area (The closest station to the trail is Ringsheim.)

Bus: Sudbadenbus services this area, and provides route and schedule information at www.suedbadenbus.de

Suggested Stages:

Either the northern or southern half of the figure eight circuit may be hiked separately

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Ettenheim: Im Offental, through the Weber winery complex, vineyards, past a memorial with benches; up a draw between vines and woodline; past Kahlenbergkapelle (chapel); toward Lindenmann-Hutte (hut), scenic overlook with boulders; downhill into vineyards; past a hut; On Margarten, past Hummels Viehweid Straussi (Tavern), continue through vineyards; through intersection/section of trail by Kahlenbergkapelle; Heubergturm; through vineyards, return to Weber winery.

Representative Trail Photos:

Sample Non-Asphalt Surface of Trail

 

Restrooms:

Heubergturm (on the trail) has restrooms, but they are sometimes locked.

Attractions on or near Trail:

Just lots of bucolic scenery.

Tasting along the Trail:

Weber winery, and two seasonal taverns: the Heubergturm, and Hummels Viehweid Straussi; all right on the trail.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: In addition to the long-distance/multi-day Breisgauer Weinweg (see the Nutshell here), there are several circuit hikes. These range from 1 to 5 kilometers, and may be combined for more distance and hiking pleasure. See Ettenheim’s https://www.ettenheim.de/weinwanderwege-am-kaiserberg to download the flyer.

Car: The Badische Weinstrasse, a 200-kilometer car route for wine enthusiasts, begins in Baden-Baden and ends at Weil Am Rhein (on the Swiss border). It roughly follows Highway 3 from north to south, passing through the towns listed here.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.ettenheim.de/tourismus-kultur-freizeit

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/wanderung/schwarzwald/weinbergwanderung-kaiserberg-weingut-weber-ettenheim/117526408/#dm=1

Comments:

The Weber winery actively promotes hiking, hence many Weber signs and some events happen here in the vineyards on the Kaiserberg. However, while parking may be allowed in their large parking lot during those times, the sign otherwise notes that parking is only for winery customers.

One small section of the trail, the roughest surface section, was closed off that day due to the danger of falling trees. However, an alternative was clearly marked, and rejoined the trail within a few hundred meters.

France, Hiking

In the Drome – Provencale

 

Walking through the garrigue, only a few meters away from the Vaucluse, with views of the Baronnies Provencales National Park, with its arid landscape, surrounded by vines producing Cotes du Rhone wine, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Provence.

Instead, I was in the Drome Provencale, in Saint Pantaleon-Les Vignes, to be exact. A wine-themed trail developed in association with the local cooperative, the Vignerons de Valleon, runs through and around the village. While the trail begins in the village, itself on the border with the Vaucluse, it soon enters vineyards. Not surprising as the village has the word “vines” in its name.

Vineyards Beginning at Village Edge

 

Saint Pantaleon is one of the 16 or so villages dedicated to producing some of the best Cotes du Rhone red wines there are. The village wines may carry the appellation name Cotes du Rhone Village and its own name on its bottles, a signal honor indeed. No doubt they had plenty of practice. In 900s, it was officially cited as having vineyards, although at that point, viticulture was probably close to a thousand years old in the area. Proud of their history, there is a wine education trail along part of the trail apparently identified by number bottles (but I lacked the brochure/key to what it all meant).

 

View of St Pantaleon

 

At a cluster of farmsteads, passing several palm trees slightly swaying in a warm February breeze, the trail began to lead to different terrain. A different, wilder, landscape begins to appear. After passing through the hamlet on the other side of the main road, the trail leads to a ravine. The exposed bank showed a mix of sand, clay and pebbles, mostly limestone, it seemed. So, this is what the vines grew in! Fortunately, it had not rained for a while. The small stream ran swiftly along its base, and judging from the gravel and rocks on the trail, it ferociously overran its banks on occasion. Picking my way over the rubble, I followed the trail uphill.

Torrente de la Fosse

 

After a short and gentle incline, I soon reached the high ground. Unlike the vineyards below, these vineyards were sheltered and more discrete. Wandering through a mix of vineyard, fields and woods, it was a quietly peaceful interlude. All the better to enjoy the beautiful views. The distant Rhone River Valley and the Ardeche mountains lay to the west, at a minimum some 30 kilometers (20 miles) way, but appearing closer in the bright sun and clear air. To the north and east, the Baronnies National Park and the Prealpes, foothills to the Alps further east, seemed close enough to reach out and touch.

Baronnies Provencales National Park

 

The terrain is lined with ravines, some with water. While the trail managed to avoid the roughest parts, it did have some ascents and descents along the way. Luckily the trail crossed one of the drops along a viaduct. It had been constructed for the train from the Rhone to Nyons, further east. The cooperative created a red wine cuvee and named it in honor of the train, and the bottle label bears a drawing of the train passing along the viaduct.

The Old Viaduct

 

As I headed downhill, the smell of garrigue filled the air: Pine, rosemary, and thyme. Lavender plants, not in bloom in winter, were nonetheless present here and there. The generally dry and mostly sunny climate in this part of France enables these plants, along with grape vines, to grow well here. In fact, in many places, they will grow wild. Running fingers through a wild rosemary bush on the trail, is one way to whet an appetite for dinner – which naturally would include local wine. What a nice end to a day on the trail!

Garrigue
France, Hiking, Nutshell

Sentier des Terroirs: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Sentier des Terroirs

Trail Type: Short to mid-distance circuit trail; well-maintained and widely varying surfaces from paved to very rough, marking on the trail very good in places, completely missing in others

Length:

Total – About 18 kilometers/11 miles

Southern/yellow circuit: 9.35 kilometers/5.8 miles.

Convenient to:

Montelimar or Nyons, France

Marking: Numbered wine bottles (some missing) in part, red or yellow arrows with a stylized vineyard area depicted in a wine glass, in other places

Signage for Red and Yellow Trail where Conjoined

(The featured photo on top shows signage for the Yellow trail only.)

Trail Description: A relatively easy, family-friendly and varied trail offering wine education (close to the village), garrigue and vineyard landscapes, overlooked by tall mountains to the east. The trail has two conjoined circuits, making it possible to adapt hiking plans, depending on available time or weather situations. (See the comment below about flooding.)

Trailhead:

St Pantaleon-Les-Vignes: By the townhall (with church-like tower); or Cave Vignerons, Route de Nyons 1

Parking:

St Pantaleon: just off traffic circle, or by the town hall (Mairie), D548 x D541, and by Chateau Urdy

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: The closest rail service is at Montelimar, with good connections plying the major French North-South artery of the Rhone.

Bus: Buses provided by the Auvergne-Rhone-Alps Region (Oura on the website) “Cars Region” service, frequently connect Saint Pantaleon, Rousset, and Taulignan, with Montelimar, (and the rest of France).

Suggested Stages:

The full trail (both northern (heading to Rousset les Vignes) and southern halves) can be done together, or separately.

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Southern circuit only – Clockwise)

Traffic circle on D 541/Rte. de Nyons – Montelimar, D548 -Grand Grange, right fork to Route des Juliannes; La Beaume, cross bridge over the Rieumau creek, Cross D541/Plan du Gre/Rte. de Nyons; Fontaine de Barral; Chapel; Cross the viaduct over Torrent de la Fosse; Chateau Urdy; Traffic circle with super-sized “ wine corks;” Cross D541 to return to the village

Representative Trail Photos:

Section of Trail in Woods

 

Section of Rough Trail Surface

 

Section of Trail

 

Restrooms:

In the village, by the church.

Attractions on or near Trail:

The Vignerons de Valleon winery offers tours and tastings to the public, are open liberal hours, and are very helpful and knowledgeable about the wines, as well as about the area and the trail.

Tasting along the Trail:

Chateau d’Urdy

Cave Vignerons de Valleon

Alternative Options:

Car: The Route de la Drome Provencale passes through Taulignan, St Pantaleon-Les-Vignes and Rousset-Les-Vignes, showcasing vineyards, quiet villages and beautiful old structures.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.grignanvalreas-tourisme.com/votre-sejour/agenda/

Trail specific: While not much is available online (to help with advance planning), the following website has a map of the southern route http://balades26-07.blogspot.com/2017/01/st-pantaleon-les-vignes-nd-de-sante-par.html (a big “Merci!”); and a map of the northern route may be found online at https://www.valleon.fr/un-terroir-et-des-hommes/, and at the winery’s front office, and the townhall.

Comments:

Snow is rare in this area, but…

Heavy rain can occur, and will flood parts of this trail, especially the low ground at the base of the hill south of the hamlet of Barral, at the Torrent de la Fosse!

 

Germany, Hiking

Cold Winter Wandering

 

From one end of Baden to the other, there is a world of difference in weather and wines. From a relatively warm day, to a bone-chilling wet-cold one, all in the same week. From the broad Rhine River valley, to the narrow Tauber River valley. Such can be the extremes of weather and geography in the Baden wine region.

Baden’s Tauberfranken wine district is far to the north and east of most of the rest of the Baden region. It lies less than 20 miles (30 kilometers) southwest of Wuerzburg, in Franconia (Franken, in German). The town of Lauda-Koenigshofen, an important center in this district, is where the trail began. (Officially, it begins in the associated village of Beckstein, but parking was not as easy there.) Lauda-Koenigshofen lies on the west bank of the Tauber River, but in large part seems fairly divorced from the river. Skirting west of the old walled town center (well worth a quick visit), the trail avoided the river altogether and headed uphill into the vineyards.

Gate in the Wall: Lauda-Koenigshofen

Continue reading Cold Winter Wandering →

Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Tauberschwarzweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Tauberschwarzweg

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit trail; well-maintained and about half is paved, the other surfaces are grass and earthen; marking on the trail is somewhat good, but a map is strongly advised.

Length: circa13 kilometers/8 miles (See comments below)

Convenient to: Wertheim, or Wuerzburg, Germany

Marking: The capital letter “D”

Trail Signage: D for Tauberschwarzweg

Continue reading Tauberschwarzweg: Trail in a Nutshell →

Germany, Hiking

Warm Winter Wandering

 

Winter, Spring, Summer, Fall, a trail’s face changes with the seasons. While this is undoubtedly true for the Ihringer Winzerrunde West trail, even as I hiked it in early February, it seemed more a trail of the Spring, and for good reason: the Kaiserstuhl is consistently one of the warmest, if not the warmest area in Germany.

To be honest, I was not looking forward to seeing the trail’s winter face for a couple of reasons. First, the Ihringer Winzerrunde West trail has several inclines, as it passes through vineyards, which in addition to being sited on elevations formed by ancient lava flows,  also has an extensive system of terraces throughout the area.

Precision-Cut Terraces

Continue reading Warm Winter Wandering →

Germany, Hiking

Winzerrundweg West: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Winzerrundweg West

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; well maintained and almost exclusively paved, marking on the trail good, but not foolproof

Length: 9 kilometers / 5.6 miles

Convenient to: Breisach or Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany

Marking: Red rectangular signs with the trail name in white letters (See the featured photo above)

Continue reading Winzerrundweg West: Trail in a Nutshell →

France, Hiking

Discovering Givry

 

If, as King Henry IV famously stated, “Paris is worth a Mass”, then he also likely said: Givry is worth a glass. It was his favorite wine. As I hiked along the trail that meandered past its clos and vineyards, and strolled along its streets, I had reason to see why.

The stroll through town showcases some of its beautiful old buildings. Erected during different eras, they are all made of the amazing limestone that is so typical of many Burgundian buildings. Once out of town and in the vineyards, clos walls are made of the same material, albeit in January covered by moss and lichen in a colorful winter coat.

Givry: Old Building

Continue reading Discovering Givry →