Category Archives: Germany

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Franconian Steigerwald

 

What I Learned:

There are three distinct wine districts in the Franconian Wine Region: The Mainviereck, the Maindreieck and the Steigerwald. Vineyards here can face more challenges than elsewhere in the region. While the first two districts follow along the Main River, the Steigerwald wine district does not. This means that the climate-moderating effects of a river do not apply. Additionally, the highest vineyards in the Franconian wine region lie in this district, some at almost 400 meters above sea level. Therefore, the elevation, as well as the distance from the Main River means that spring weather effects can come later, and fall weather effects can come earlier, and have more impact, than elsewhere in this wine region.

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Biking, Germany, Nutshell

Talauen-Radweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Talauen-Radweg, T-6; – (See also Bocksbeuteltour AKA Bocksbeutelrunde below)

Trail Type: Middle distance; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, marking on the trail good

Length:

Total – 26 kilometers/16 miles

Convenient to: Neustadt (Aisch) (about 35 miles northwest of Nuremberg), Bad Windsheim, Germany

Marking:

Sign Talauen Radweg 6

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Germany, Hiking

Almost Heaven: Ehrenkirchen

 

Sometimes pilgrimages bring the pilgrims making the journey closer to heaven. Me, I just felt closer to heaven merely viewing the wide vistas from one of the Markgraeflerland district’s venerated vineyards, passing through old forests, eerily quiet in the face of an impending storm, and confronting the vestiges of pilgrimages past and present. This hike truly was more than just a hiking experience. It synthesized much of what I look for in the vineyard or wine trails I select.

In the first place, the hike proceeded through a few different vineyard areas. The first was the Batzenberg, rising uniquely outside the village, supporting almost nothing but vines on its slope. It is a good, reliable area for vines. Along with the Oberduerrenberg vineyard, that the trail subsequently traversed, these two vineyards represented some of the best parcels in the area. I liked them both for two very different reasons. From the top of the Batzenberg, one could almost feel on top of the world. With nothing but vines, the far-reaching vistas were impressive.

A View From the Batzenberg

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Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Markgraeflerland North

 

What I Learned

The Markgraeflerland district is along the southern-most section of the Rhine as it borders France, in the region of Baden, in the state of Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany. It is the southern-most wine producing district in Germany. It begins in Weil am Rhein, just outside the Swiss city of Basel, and continues almost to Freiburg. The vineyards lie on the foothills between the river valley floor, and the Black Forest mountains to the east. About 3000 hectares, and 90 cooperatives, cellars and wine estates are dedicated to the production of this region’s wine, carried out the in villages and small towns that dot this area.

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Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Batzenbergrunde: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Batzenbergrunde

Trail Type: A mid-distance circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively hard-packed (or paved) surfaces, marking on the trail is not trail-specific

Length: 13.75 kilometers/8.5 miles

Convenient to: Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany, or Basel, Switzerland

Marking:

None specific to the trail, (although I did see wooden one sign); but there were plenty of directional signs (see above).

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Germany, Hiking

A Wine Trail in Winter

 

Be prepared is the scout’s motto. And when winter hikers (like me that day) do not heed that advice, there can be unanticipated results, but fortunately friendly help can save the day. It was in the thirties and overcast when I began my drive to this hiking trail. Two hours later, it was below freezing and snowing, definitely not the spring weather I optimistically decided would certainly prevail in March. I decided to start the hike anyway, and arranged to meet a friend for lunch in Handthal, about midway to Breitbach from Gerolzhofen.

To be clear, the Weinsteiger trail itself-its condition, its signage, even its itinerary-was quite good. I intend to return someday to complete the itinerary, and enjoy the sights and adventures on offer along the trail. The issue was my lack of preparation for the weather, which can be colder, due to the elevation and exposure, than other parts of Franconia.

Gasthaus in the Vineyards

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Germany, Hiking, Wines

Wines Notes: Franconian Steigerwald

 

What I Learned:

The Franconian Wine Region in Germany has three distinct wine districts: the famous Maindreieck passing Wuerzburg, the Mainviereck, and the Steigerwald. Unlike the first two, the Steigerwald wine district is not located along the Main River. This means that the climate-moderating effects of a river do not apply here. And since here is in south-central Germany, winter weather can last for longer, with spring weather arriving later, and fall weather arriving earlier, than elsewhere in this region.

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Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Weinsteiger: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Weinsteiger

Trail Type: Long distance; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, marking on the trail

Length:

Total – 42.5 kilometers/26.4 miles

Segment Covered Here – @19.5 kilometers/ 12 miles*

Convenient to: Kitzingen, Schweinfurt, Germany

Marking:

Square with the word “Weinsteiger” in black on a white background, with a smaller square composed of light and dark green beneath the word. Sometimes seen on directional signs as well.

Signage: Weinsteiger

 

Directional Sign, with Weinsteiger Logo

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Germany, Hiking

A Good Witch

 

Kappelrodeck’s witch is a good one, IMHO. She brings happiness and casts an enchanting spell over the little town and its surroundings. Her spell succeeds in charming and beguiling all who make their way through the relatively narrow pass climbing along the Acher valley at the foot of the Black Forest Mountain range.

Certainly, the landscape bewitches with its fascinating geology and natural beauty! Hills mound about like lumps on the landscape. Most of their slopes contain vines. These face the sun at different times of the day. The sun, along with the rain (and snow in the winter), make these incredibly green. The tops of the hills are often covered with pines: Tall, dark and majestic. Behind them the Black Forest begins.

Vines Against the Black Forest Pines

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Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Ortenau’s Kappelrodeck

 

What I Learned:

Certainly one of the most fascinating vineyard areas in Baden’s Ortenau wine district, the area around Kappelrodeck and Waldulm stands out as topographically impressive for growing grapes in a never-to-be-forgotten mixture of hill and dale.

Slopes are steep. Hills cluster close together. The profile of the hills resembles a grape cluster lying on the ground: round mounds intersected by narrow dales. This topography is ideal as far as the vines’ exposition to the sun goes. Being steep, rainwater drains well away from the vines. Additionally, the area lies in a valley sheltered by higher ridgelines to the north, south, and east. As a result, even though this area of Germany has its share of foggy or overcast, even rainy, days, when the sun shines, each grape stands a good chance of getting some decent exposure to its warming and ripening rays.

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