Category Archives: Germany

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Franconia’s Mainviereck

 

What I Learned

Baden and Wuerttemberg, formerly two different principalities, joined in 1952 to become one state in the Federal Republic of Germany. However, the Baden wine region and the Wuerttemberg wine region remain distinct. (There is no such thing as a Baden-Wuerttemberg wine region.) But in the northern-most corner of the old Baden, and west of Wuerzburg in the far western corner of Bavaria, two wine regions, the Franken and the Baden, meet to form a complex mosaic of wine districts and famous growths. The Schoppen Radweg bicycle trail took me through the vineyards of these regions from the Wertheim am Main to Marktheidenfeld, Erlenbach bei Marktheidenfeld and along the Main River to Homburg am Main.

Franconian Terroir:

The Franken region has three zones, the Steigerwald, the Maindreieck (Main Triangle), and the Mainviereck (Main Rectangle). Both the latter two lie along the Main River, but geologically they are very different terroir. Shell limestone soils predominate in the Maindreieck, and results in very different wines from wines grown in the red sandstone of the Mainviereck. The small area around Marktheidenfeld and Homburg am Main lies in between these two Franconian wine districts, and the soils reflect its position between the two. The best vineyards in this district face the Main River as it twists south yet again. The most prized vineyards are the Kallmuth by Homburg am Main, and the Lengfurter Oberrot (The rot (red) referring to the red sandstone of the Mainviereck that begins to appear here along with the shell limestone of the Maindreieck.) This small area produces both red and white wines: Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Silvaner being especially popular here.

Baden Terroir:

The Baden wine district here (one of nine in the Baden wine region) forms part of the Tauberfranken district (even though it is not along the Tauber River here).  The vineyards face south, along the small valley of the Aalbach, as it heads toward the Main. The Tauberfranken district produces primarily white wines, with Mueller-Thurgau leading in amount.

 

What I Tasted

2016 Spaetburgunder, Lengfurter Oberrot, QbA, Trocken, Weinhaus Frank: A dry red wine with medium red plus ruby red color; a nose of vanilla, blackberry and cherry; with oak, vanilla and cherry flavors; medium tannins, with a smooth finish.

2016 Silvaner, Homburger Kallmuth, QbA, Trocken, Weingut Blank: A dry white wine with medium gold color; a fruity and slightly mineral nose, with slight vanilla, nutmeg, and white peach flavors; medium plus acidity with a green apple finish.

2017 Weisser Burgunder, Homburger Kallmuth, Kabinett, Trocken, Weingut Huller: A dry white wine with dark minus yellow gold color; a fruity nose with hints of peach, gooseberry and citrus; with flavors of tangy green apple, and ripe red apple; medium minus acidity.

Biking, Germany, Nutshell

Schoppenradweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Schoppenradweg

Trail Type: A medium distance cycling circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, marking on the trail is good.

Length:

Total – 45 kilometers/28 miles

Convenient to: Wertheim, or Wuerzburg, Germany

Marking: Schoppen (wine glass) with bike

Sign for Schoppen Radweg

Trail Description:  An easy and pleasant circuit through a wide variety of landscapes, with lots of history, views and things to do, on bike paths that are excellently maintained and a pleasure to ride on.

Trailhead:

Official: Erlenbach Bei Marktheidenfeld

Me: Uettingen (B): Helmstadterstrasse-Hauptstrasse

Parking:

Uettingen: Am Graben x Muehlweg, a large paved parking area

Erlenbach Bei Marktheidenfeld: large paved parking lot at Wiesenweg x Hirtenweg, by the Festhalle

Marktheidenfeld: Parkplatz Mainkai, large paved parking lot just before the bridge, off Brueckenstrasse

Lengfurt: Off St2299, by the river, a large free, and paved lot

Public Transportation Options:

Bus: Buses are the only option in this area, run by the VVM (a Main region company). But they are linked with the Deutsche Bahn site for details. See https://int.bahn.de/en

Suggested Stages:

Not Applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Uettingen:  Hauptstrasse-Kirchbergstrasse, Birkenfelderweg, fields; Remlingen: Cross Weberleinsweg x Birkenfelderstrasse, to Birkenfelderstrasse, Zehntbergweg; Tiefenthal: Kreuzstrasse, Obere G Strasse, Wasserweg, cross Hauptstrasse to path along creek; Erlenbach: Wiesenweg, Im Bruhl, left at lone farm house to pass under Wuerzburgerstrasse, fields; Marktheidenfeld: Am Weiler, under Dillbergstrasse, along creek path, under Sudring, Lohgraben under B8 to Friedenstrasse, Kreuzbergstrasse, cross B8 to Mitteltorstrasse-Fahrgasse, to Main River trail; pass Mainuferbiergarten, pass Klaeranlage; Lengfurt: Along the river; Homburg: under ST2299, Maintalstrasse, under ST2299, along river: Bettingen: Geiselbrunnweg, Dorfstrasse-Hauptstrasse, Dertingerweg, over A3 on Almosenberg, Hymerring, pass Kletterpark; Dertingen: Sandweg, Albachstrasse/L2310, Al Mandelberg; Wuestenzell: Along the Aalbach; Holzkirchen: Bruckenstrasse, Baltasar Neumannstrasse (P), Klosterstrasse, fields, forests; Uettingen: Untere Muhle-Hollerbuschweg

Representative Trail Photos:

Representative Trail Section
Representative Unfinished Trail Surface

Restrooms:

Marktheidenfeld: Marktplatz, between the Volkshochschule and St Laurentius Church

Lengfurt/Triefenstein: downriver from the parking lot, off Sr2299. Look for a small green corrugated structure

Attractions on or near Trail:

Marktheidenfeld – the Franck-Haus is a fine building constructed in the baroque for a wealthy wine merchant. Recently renovated, the façade, baroque rooms and the old wine cellar are worth a visit. Exhibits rotate in other parts of the building as well.

Homburg – Rebsortengarten, (a grape varietal garden), a collection of vines (with labels) providing a quick reference for grape varietals grown regionally.

Tasting along the Trail:

Marktheidenfeld – Several pubs and restaurants offer local wines.

Lengfurt/Triefenstein and Erlenbach bei Marktheidenfeld both have a couple of wineries and vineyards outside the village.

Homburg am Main is the village with the most choices for wineries or wine shops, and is the site of the famous Kallmuth vineyard along the slopes overlooking the river.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Homburger Weinwanderweg, a 10 kilometer/6 mile long trail beginning and ending in Homburg, is a fairly easy route through town, vineyards and forest, with river views along much of the way.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.main-spessart.de/themen/tourismus-kultur/19.Tourismus–Kultur-im-Landkreis.html

Trail specific: https://www.gemeinde-erlenbach.de/tourismusfreizeit/radwege/

Comments:

One of the biggest wine festivals of this area is the Weinfest Homburg, in Homburg/Triefenstein, every end of July to the first weekend in August, in the old castle courtyard.

From Bettingen to Uettingen, the Schoppen Radweg itinerary is the same as the Romantische Strasse bicycle itinerary. After Uettingen the 498.25 kilometer itinerary continues about another 15 kilometers (a bit less than 10 miles) to Wuerzburg, the northern terminus of the Romantische Strasse, for both cars and bicycles.

Note that both Lengfurt and Homburg am Main are part of the Triefenstein community. Therefore, tourist information about this part of the trail may be found under https://tourismus-triefenstein.de/

 

Germany, Hiking

Communing with Vines

 

This hike can be defined as slow hiking. According to the Cambridge Dictionary, slow hiking is the act of going on a long walk through countryside, without the pressure of going fast, or climbing hills, or making a distance. It is meant to be an activity accessible to all fitness levels, that predisposes participants for actually enjoying nature. Thus, it sets up a framework for communing with nature.

The Steigerwald area I hiked is ideal for slow tourism, defined as far from mass tourism sites, with a focus on local culture, history and traditions. It is characterized by low (and slow) mobility, emphasizing sustainability. The Steigerwald wine district is surely Franconia’s least known district. Iphofen (see here), and Bad Windsheim (see here), are the two biggest towns – delightful, but small. Agricultural pursuits, mostly devoted to vines and grains, cover much of the rest of the area. Thus, I could slow hike in a slow tourism area, and take time to reflect on vines and communities supporting them.

Small Section of the Steigerwald Nature Park

Mainly though, this area is known for the Steigerwald Nature Park, which covers about 431 square miles, in the Franconian/Bavarian border area west of Nuremberg. The hills are heavily forested and popular with some hikers for their unspoiled nature. My hike though, on the southwest corner of the park, lay right at the junction of the trees and vines. Not only could I enjoy both vineyards and forest, I could do so in peace and quiet.

And then There Were None: Clear Vine/Tree Delineation

I began just below the Weinparadiesscheune, a popular wine-bar with local wine (and food) on offer. Early morning patrons, on that warm, sunny late August day, began to fill up the outdoor seats. This part of the hike remained on asphalt as it went up the western side of the hill, along the upper reaches of vines facing the villages of Bullenheim, Seinsheim and Huettenheim.

Weinparadiesscheune – Set Between Forest and Vineyard

Vintners from these small villages work the vines on the short, but steep, slopes, producing Silvaner, Mueller-Thurgau and Bacchus wine, named after the Greco-Roman god of wine. The Bacchus varietal is relatively new, but it has taken hold in this region (one of the few places it may be found). Like the god, Bacchus wine is popular, and inspires (when taken in moderation, of course!)

The Tannenberg

After a steep climb off the asphalt and into the woods, I was onto the Tannenberg (Pine Mountain), nowadays mostly devoid of trees and covered in vines instead. On the north side of this hill overlooking Huettenheim, there is a Jewish cemetery. In a quiet spot, well suited for contemplation, reminiscent of two similar cemeteries in remote areas of Baden I’d seen, recalling that once vibrant Jewish communities coexisted within even remote villages.

Jewish Cemetery Above Huettenheim

After that, the trail ran south along a shallow valley separating it from the main Steigerwald park. Once leaving the Tannenberg hill, the trail entered woodlands again. As the modest incline increased so did the heat, but fortunately now, the meandering trail was shaded by majestic trees.

Vineyards Along the Steigerwald

It was in this same forest, according to legend, that Empress Kunigunde, lost her way. She made an oath to God that she would found a church there, if she could find her way out of the woods. Sure enough, right off the trail lay the ruins of Kunigunde’s church. (The only problematic issue being the fact that the ruins date to about 400 years after her death in 1033.) Nonetheless, they provide a nice opportunity to relax, soak up the atmosphere of an earlier era, and enjoy the birdsong.

Ruins of Kunigunde’s Church

After my contemplations on a Greco-Roman god, a Catholic church, and a former Jewish community, I realized that like the Greco-Roman communities of old, and the Jewish and Catholic communities, all  shared an appreciation of wine that transcended their differences. Such is often the way with wine aficionados as well. Completing the circuit, I made my way back to the Weinparadiesscheune, to enjoy a glass or two of the local wine, made right here, in full communion with nature and fellow wine-lovers, as has been done for centuries.

 

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Seinsheim Bullenheim

 

What I Learned

Of the Franconia (Franken) wine region’s districts, the Steigerwald district is undoubtedly less well-known than the other two (the Maindreieck around Wuerzburg, and the Mainviereck), and consequently, one of the least visited. The Steigerwald is a tranquil area, focused largely on agriculture. One major attraction is the relatively large Steigerwald Nature park, with wide swathes of tree-covered hills. But on the edges of those hills are vineyards. The vineyard area is known as Frankenberger Schlossstueck, with three vineyards – the Hohenbuehl, the Tannenberg, and the Paradies, belonging to the villages of Seinsheim, Huettenheim and Bullenheim respectively.

Mueller-Thurgau, Silvaner and Bacchus are the three most common grape varieties planted here. The Bacchus varietal was created by crossing a Riesling with a Silvaner, then with a Mueller-Thurgau. The three parent varietals all do relatively well in cooler climate, which is why these, along with Bacchus, are the most planted varietals in this district. These grapes tend to produce light, fruity, white wines, a delight to drink chilled. Normally neither as acidic, nor as aromatic as Riesling, both the Silvaner and Bacchus wines are less-intense alternatives to Riesling, and are found almost only in Franconia.

 

What I Tasted

2017 Mueller-Thurgau, Kabinett, Trocken, Paradies Wein: A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; nose of green apple and gooseberry, with vanilla, green apple, and slight stone fruit flavors; medium plus acidity, with a tart lengthy finish.

2017 Bacchus, Kabinett, Halbtrocken, Winzerhof Klaus Markert (Weigenheim): A semi-dry white wine, with medium gold color; apricot, white peach and vanilla aromas and flavors; medium acidity.

2016 Bacchus, Bullenheimer Paradies, Kabinett, Halbtrocken, Weinbau Erich Schwemmer (Seinsheim): A semi-dry white wine, with medium minus gold color; neutral nose, with apricot, white peach and vanilla flavors; medium minus acidity.

 

Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Traumrunde Huettenheim-Seinsheim: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Traumrunde Huettenheim-Seinsheim

Trail Type:

Short-distance circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved or hard-packed, marking on the trail fairly good

Length:

Total – 8.7 kilometers/ 5.4 miles

Convenient to:

Ippesheim, Franconia, Germany

Marking:

Square with white background, and red lettering reading “Traumrunde Huettenheim-Seinsheim”

Sign: TraumRunde Huettenheim-Seinsheim

 

Trail Description:

A meandering circuit, with moderate ascents and descents, as it circles the irregular upper contours of a vine-planted hill on the southwestern edge of the large Steigerwald Nature Park

Trailhead:

Can be anywhere on a circuit, but from a parking perspective, the parking area just below the Weinparadies Scheune is a convenient place to start.

Parking:

Bullenheim: Follow the signs to the Weinparadiesscheune, and before arriving, you will see a small area for hikers’ parking

Public Transportation Options:

Bus: Available to surrounding villages (Bullenheim, Seinsheim, Huettenheim), but not practical

Suggested Stages: (Not applicable)

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Clockwise)

Huettenheim: Jewish Cemetery, Vineyards, two little ponds, forest; Kapellberg overlook, Kunigundenkapelle, scenic overlook, parking lot, Weinparadiesscheune Seinsheim; Steinbruch am Kunigundenwald, picnic area, Tannenberg Kreuz, Wanderhuette am Juedischen Friedhof

Representative Trail Photos:

Representative Trail Section in Forest Areas
Trail Surface: Unpaved

Restrooms:

(Only observed at the WeinparadiesScheune)

Attractions on or near Trail:

Some wine education tables located intermittently along the trail.

Tasting along the Trail:

Weinparadiesscheune Seinsheim, directly on the trail

Small wineries and taverns in Bullenheim, Seinsheim and Huettenheim, all slightly off the trail

Alternative Options:

Hiking: TCW 49: Durch Fraenkische Weinparadies: a 12.9 kilometer circuit, through much of the same area, but, more challenging ascents and descents, and about 2 miles longer. See https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/wanderung/steigerwald/tcw-49-durchs-fraenkische-weinparadies/227470702/

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.ippesheim.de/

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/wanderung/fraenkisches-weinland/traumrunde-huettenheim-seinsheim/9552201/#dm=1

Comments:

Few parking lots, per se, just parking on the edges of lanes. So please be conscientious and respectful when parking road-side in the villages or vineyards.

 

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Mittelrhein Reichenstein

 

What I Learned

The Mittelrhein (Middle Rhine) is famous for its castle ruins, towering cliffs, and dramatic oxbow bends along the river through this section of it. The Upper Middle Rhine is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. It begins in Koblenz, and continues to Bingen.

This also defines the wine region known as the Mittelrhein. Unlike other wine regions on the Rhine, this region covers both banks of the river (beginning north of Lorchhausen, which joins the Rheingau region). Many areas of the Upper Middle Rhine do not produce wine: the topography and geology just aren’t suitable or practicable, even for growing other crops. That just makes the vineyards along this section of the Rhine even more esteemed.

On the left bank, dark slate begins to predominate in the soil around Boppard, and continues upriver until just outside Trechtingshausen. This hard rock shapes the river as well, and its many twists and turns provide optimal sun exposure for some slopes, like the famous vineyard of Bopparder Hamm, while depriving others of much sun at all just around the next bend.

Because of the different geological conditions, the Mittelrhein region is divided into different “Grosslage,” or growing areas, each containing some specifically named vineyards. This hike covered the area around mostly Oberheimbach, which falls with the Grosslage of Schloss Reichenstein, the name of a brooding castle ruin located about three miles upriver in Trechtingshausen. Well-known Nieder/Ober -heimbach vineyards include Niederheimbacher Froher Weingarten, Oberheimbacher Sonne, Oberheimbacher Klosterberg, and my personal favorite: the Oberheimbacher Wahrheit (it means “Truth”), which says all you need to know about the true expression of the terroir in the wines from here.

 

What I Tasted

2017 Riesling Weinberg Schloesschen, Spaetlese, Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Weingut Juergen Stassen (Oberheimbach): A dry white wine with medium gold color, a mineral and slightly fruity nose, with green gooseberry and mineral flavors; medium plus acidity with a tart finish.

2015 Riesling, Classic, Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Weingut Eisenbach-Korn (Oberheimbach): A dry white wine with medium plus gold color, a spicy, nose with hints of turpentine and lipstick; with spicy and fruity flavors, medium acidity with a smooth, but tart finish; very well balanced overall.

2013 Weisser Riesling, Niederheimbacher Froher Weingarten, Qualitaetswein, trocken, Fendel: A dry white wine with a medium gold color: a well-balanced, slightly floral and fruity tasting wine with a pleasant minerality to it.

 

Germany, Hiking

Fuerstenbergblick: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Nr 22 – Fuerstenbergblick

Trail Type: Short distance circuit trail; well-maintained and mostly paved or hard-packed earthen trail, marking on the trail is mostly good, but not always exclusively specific to this trail as other trails follow along it as well.

Length:

Total – 7 kilometers/4.3 miles

Convenient to: Bingen, or Koblenz, Germany

Marking: Nr 22, or follow signs to next itinerary point

Trail Description: This is an easy trail through a little visited area of the famous Middle Rhine. It passes through a couple of wooded areas, but mostly vineyards, with clear views of the vineyards and castles on the opposite (and more visited) side of the Rhine, and a lovely riverside walk to close the circuit.

Trailhead:

Niederheimbach, Rheinstrasse riverside walking path

Parking:

Niederheimbach: A few street-side places where parking is not prohibited along the Rheinstrasse or Heimbachtal streets

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: Very frequent train service (DeutscheBahn (DB) regional train RB26) connects Niederheimbach with Mainz to the south, or Cologne to the north with stops all along the Mittel Rhein including Bingen, Boppard, St Goar, Koblenz, amongst others.

Bus: See the Rhein-Naehe Nahverkehrsverbund (RNN) website for details of bus travel through this area

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Clockwise)

Niederheimbach: Heimbachtal, then turn up to Rheinblick, vineyards, lookout point “Tempelchen”, woods, Rheindiebach: Cross Rheingoldstrasse/K27, vineyards, to and past Burg Fuerstenberg ruins, pass above the cemetery, Rheingoldstr, Mainzerstr, pass under B9 and train tracks, continue on the waterside path back to Niederheimbach

Representative Trail Photos:

Sample Trail Section Through Woods

 

Grassy Trail Surfaces in Places

 

Stairs to the Castle

Restrooms:

Rheindiebach: along the river, just north of the pedestrian underpass

Attractions on or near Trail:

Just lots of iconic Rhine River scenery!

Tasting along the Trail:

Niederheimbach and Oberheimbach both have guesthouses and restaurants that serve local wines. Niederheimbach even has one right along the river!

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Reblausweg (Nr 13) / Route 1 Panoramaweg, an 8 kilometer circuit trail beginning/ending at Niederheimbach. See the Nutshell here.

Biking: Rheinradweg, is a multi-day tour following the Rhine, but an easy day trip, with lots of stops for photos, is from Koblenz to Bingen am Rhein, or vice versus. It passes through Niederheimbach, which is one of the trains stops along the river route. See the Nutshell here.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.romantischer-rhein.de/ and https://niederheimbach.welterbe-mittelrheintal.de/

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/wanderung/romantischer-rhein/nhb-nr.-22-fuerstenbergblick-rundwanderweg/116090787/  or https://www.niederheimbach.info/media/files/nhb-wanderweg_022_k-2022-07.pdf

Comments:

Short, easy, but lovely.

 

Germany, Hiking

Steigerwald’s Stellar Vineyards and Villages

 

The Steigerwald, in Franconia, is a wonderful area. Unlike the other wine districts in the region, the Steigerwald is away from the Main River, and does experience a bit more variance in the weather. One March, hiking the Steigerwald on the first weekend of March, I failed miserably due to snow and ice. (See that story here.) Another March, a year and three weeks’ time difference, sunny skies and dry trails resulted in one of the most memorable hikes I ever completed in Germany.

I began in Castell, a delightful village with a good reputation for its wines. It is nestled at the base of low, vine-covered hills. This iconic village comes complete with a castle in its park, narrow streets and lanes filled with historic houses, and a church. But it was not alone – all the villages on the trail of this hike were just as charming.

Castell: Castle and Church

Continue reading Steigerwald’s Stellar Vineyards and Villages →

Germany, Wines

Wines Notes: Franconian Steigerwald

 

What I Learned:

Kronsberg, Julius Echter Berg, and the Kuchenmeister are three well-known vineyards in the Iphofen-Roedelsee area, the most famous perhaps being the Julius Echter Berg, named after a 16th Century Wuerzburg Prince-Bishop. (He served as the ruler of a large area within the Holy Roman Empire in Franconia, which he managed rather well.) It was during his lifetime that the Silvaner vines entered Franconia (the first documented record of it locally being in the Castell archives), and some of its best expressions come from the mineral-rich Gipskeuper soils (components shale, gypsum, anhydrite and rock salt) unique to the area around the Schwanberg, around which the three vineyards lay. This geological component, along with the influence of a continental weather pattern, can result in outstanding white wines some years.

Continue reading Wines Notes: Franconian Steigerwald →

Germany, Hiking

Steigerwald Weinwanderweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Steigerwald Weinwanderweg

Trail Type: Long distance; almost exclusively paved or at least hard-packed surfaces, well maintained, fairly well marked.

Length: Total: 42.75 kilometers/ miles

Convenient to: Kitzingen, Bavaria, Germany

Marking: Green grapes on a white background, scored through by a wavy red line

Signage: Steigerwald Weinwanderweg

Continue reading Steigerwald Weinwanderweg: Trail in a Nutshell →