Category Archives: France

Meursault: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Promenade en Pays Beaunois Circuit 14, Monthelie; aka Sentier des Buis. (“PR n 14” is seen also on signs)

Trail Type: mid-distance circuit; surfaces vary from asphalt, to hard-packed earth, to rough trails; the route is fairly well-marked, but a map is definitely handy.

Length: total: 12 kilometers/7.5 miles

Convenient to: Beaune, France

Marking: Small yellow rectangular signs “Pays Beaunois 14”, then painted rectangles or arrows (on a variety of surfaces (rocks, trees, posts) indicating the direction to follow. Signs, as in the featured image above, also indicate a specific location and direction to continue.

Pays Beaunois Circuit 14 Sign
Pays Beaunois Circuit 14 Sign

Continue reading Meursault: Trail in a Nutshell

A Flowery Winter Hike

 

Fleurie means flowery, which this village undoubtedly is in spring and summer. But on my winter weekend break it was wet and windy. The weather only worsened as time went on. The rain turned into downpours. But after almost two days of rain, the forecasts called for a two to three-hour break in the rains. I decided to embark on one of Fleurie’s four circuit trails before leaving the area. Four great trails, seemingly designed for someone like me: wanting to hike, but with some time constraints. A great and convenient feature of the Entre Vignes et Bois (Between Vines and Woods) series of trails in Fleurie, is this: They are circuits that radiate out from the village in increasingly wider circles. Therefore, hikers can choose between one or another depending on time, capabilities, or in this case, weather.

Optimistically choosing the 12 kilometer (red) circuit, I set off from the Place de l’Eglise. But within 10 minutes, rain began to fall. A quick look at the sky confirmed that thick black clouds were rolling in faster than anticipated. So I switched to the four kilometer circuit instead. It was an easy decision to make on the spot. Should the downpours suddenly return, the map showed that this circuit also allowed for a couple of possible shortcuts, on tarmac, no less. This kind of flexibility created by interconnectivity is another great feature of the Entre Vignes et Bois trail series.

Village of Fleurie
Village of Fleurie

Continue reading A Flowery Winter Hike

Wine Notes: Beaujolais

 

What I Learned

Beaujolais falls within the wine region of Burgundy, although it is outside the political boundaries of the region. It has three different quality levels: a simple Beaujolais produced in the southern-most reaches of this area; a Beaujolais-Village appellation; and in the northern part of this wine region, ten villages with their own appellations due to their special crus. It is a singular geological area of often steep hills and hidden valleys. Schist and granitic soils in the Beaujolais give a distinctive minerality to the wines. The best of these wines, the ten villages/areas of appellation (Brouilly, Chenas, Cote de Brouilly, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Julienas, Morgon, Moulin a Vent, Regnie, Saint-Amour) offer good value for quality wines. Overall, there are 12 different appellations within the Beaujolais region to look for on a bottle label.

Continue reading Wine Notes: Beaujolais

Entre Vignes et Bois: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Fleurie – Entre Vignes et Bois

Trail Type(s): A series of four circuits, short, medium and long distances, circling out from Fleurie (in the Beaujolais district); trail surfaces partly paved, partly hard-packed, otherwise grass or earthen surfaces (sandy or compacted); Route(s) mostly marked.

Length(s):

Total: 4, 12, 16 and 25 kilometers/2.5, 7.5, 10, and 15.5 miles respectively

Convenient to: Lyon, France

Marking: Colored rectangles (blue, for the four kilometer circuit; red for the 12 kilometer circuit, green for the 16 kilometer circuit, and yellow for the 25 kilometer circuit.), some with arrow to indicate direction; and sometimes a square placard with the words “Entre Vignes et Bois” and a bunch of grapes and a grape leaf.

Entre Vignes et Bois Circuits Sign
Entre Vignes et Bois Circuits Sign

Continue reading Entre Vignes et Bois: Trail in a Nutshell

Visan and its Vines

Some places are simply charming, and Visan is one of them. The small village is a visual gem, set on a low hill. Countryside surrounds it. It has delicious Cotes du Rhone Villages wines, to include the special Cuvee du Marot, and local olives to enjoy with them. Friendly people and great opportunities for hiking round out my paeans of praise.

The circuit hike I chose is one that is advertised online as the Vignes de l’Enclave des Papes (Vines of the Enclave of the Popes), but known locally as Circuit 12, or Circuit Est (East Circuit). The very helpful woman at the Syndicat d’Initiative oriented me to the maps they provide there, and off I went.

As the name implies, it heads east, through the well-preserved village center, out the old gate known as Porte Saint Martin (next to the Place de la Coconniere), and follows the old buildings ringing the historic center to the southeastern gate, the Porte du Puy Barret. From there, it was into the vineyards surrounding the village. But it wasn’t only vineyards. One of the great features about this trail is that is also passes by olive tree groves, and through forested areas, making for a nice variety of Provencal terrain to experience.

Porte du Puy Barret
Porte du Puy Barret

Continue reading Visan and its Vines

Wine Notes: Southern Rhone Appellations

What I Learned

The Cotes du Rhone French wine region follows the length of the Rhone River from south of Lyon to Avignon. This post differentiates some of the different appellations of the Cotes du Rhone Meridionale (the southern part of this region), specifically the Vaucluse county (around Avignon).

Cotes du Rhone wines are certainly ones most people come across today. These wines are, and have been for centuries, quite popular, especially among lovers of rich, powerful red wines made from primarily Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah grapes. Kings and popes coveted wines from here. The popes even acquired select areas with reputable vineyards, such as in the Enclave des Papes, and the famous Chateauneuf du Pape. (See the history of wine in this region here.) However, there are different quality levels within the region, and even within those wines with labels bearing the words “Cotes du Rhone”.

Continue reading Wine Notes: Southern Rhone Appellations

Vignes de l’Enclave des Papes: Trail in a Nutshell

Trail Name: Vignes de l’Enclave des Papes, (AKA: Circuit 12, Circuit Est)

Trail Type: A medium distance circuit, along almost exclusively paved or hard-packed surfaces; fairly well maintained, with generic signage.

Length: 10 kilometers/6 miles

Convenient to: Valreas, Vaucluse Department, Provence Region, France

Marking: Yellow signs on a post, and yellow rectangles (Not exclusive to this particular trail)

Location Marking, Visan
Location Marking, Visan

 

Yellow Rectangle Sign
Yellow Rectangle Sign

Continue reading Vignes de l’Enclave des Papes: Trail in a Nutshell

A Hike through History

 

Vaison-la-Romaine is a small town with a big history in France’s Vaucluse district. One side, set south of the river, rises up dramatically on an isolated rock. A Celtic oppidum was here, and later, medieval era people built their homes there, seeking shelter behind its gates, relying on the rock’s impressive defensive strengths.

Castle, Vaison-la-Romaine
Castle, Vaison-la-Romaine

Continue reading A Hike through History