Just before winter solstice, I found myself in Alsace, not far from Strasbourg, wondering why I would hike on such a gray day. The short answer is that Strasbourg has one of the most impressive Christmas Markets in France, and Molsheim, near some of Alsace’s grand cru vineyards, is not far from it. So after an evening visiting the market, I headed for the hills to the west the next morning.
What I Learned
The Alsatian wine region is famous throughout France, and the world. It is a great place to try excellent French wines, at very reasonable prices. Politically, Alsace is divided into two districts, or departments. The Haut Rhin is the southern-most. Above it is the Bash Rhin, stretching north to the border with Germany. The Rhine river marks the eastern border of both, and the Vosges mountains lie on the western side of each.
Trail Name: Circuit de Trotele (One of the “Circuits de Bacchus” local circuit trails)
Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit; varied surfaces, from paved to meadow grasses, well maintained, with the route itself specifically marked in most, but not all, places.
Length: Total: 13.8 kilometers/ 8.4 miles
Convenient to: Strasbourg, France
Marking: Hollow blue circle, in places; yellow lines elsewhere
Although side-by-side, Vacqueyras and Gigondas have more dissimilarities than just their wines. Gigondas is nestled within the lower folds of the Dentelles de Montmirail crests. Small, hidden, in a complex landscape, it exudes a sense of remoteness and secrecy. Vacqueyras lies on flatter land, in the shadow of the Dentelles, and is bigger. There is a sense of town, vice village, and although still partly behind old walls, has an open, friendly atmosphere.
The trail here was also a bit more friendly, user-friendly that is. So, I took my best friend along, one who hasn’t hiked in a while, but this trail is suitable for all fitness levels. We had a memorable morning hiking along a signposted trail, followed by some wine tasting, and then lunch. What could be better than that?
What I Learned
Vacqueyras is a small town in Provence, France, with a big name in the wine world. Like its neighboring AOC Gigondas, the southern Rhone reds from Vacqueyras are big and powerful. However, there are some important differences between these two appellations.
Trail Name: Parcours du Vignoble de Vacqueyras
Trail Type: Short distance; surface is mostly paved, with some grassy stretches; fairly well maintained, and fairly well marked.
Length: 8 kilometers/5 miles
Convenient to: Orange or Carpentras, Vaucluse, France
Marking: Grape leaf cut-out on a square rust-brown sign; 17 panels
Continue reading Trail in a Nutshell: Vignoble de Vacqueyras
Hallowed sites exist in many forms throughout the world, and whether they are religious, ethnic or historic, all are sacred to its devotees. I recently visited such an area. It is revered by those who prefer powerful, age-worthy, Rhone red wines; who worship them, sadly often from afar, because the prices can reach astounding levels. This is the story of a pilgrimage to Tain.
Tain, or Tain l’Hermitage, as the town has become officially known, contains within its boundaries the appellation known as Hermitage, one of France’s most prestigious wine appellations. More like a village than a small town, it has a history that predates even the Romans. It’s reputation as a wine center is even more august, attracting pilgrims from every corner of the world.
What I Learned
“Hermitage” as in Appellation Hermitage Controlee (AOC), is one of the most well-known wine appellations on the planet. It is located in the small town of Tain l’Hermitage, France, (which is also home to the chocolatier Valrhona). Situated on the left bank of the Rhone River, which faces west, at a spot where it bends dramatically, producing a southern exposure for many parcels as well. The vineyards rise up steeply behind the town, which itself lies on a narrow alluvial plain.
Trail Name: Sur les Pas de Gambert
Trail Type: Short distance circuit; surfaces vary from paved to rutted dirt to pebble on stone, mostly maintained, and fairly well marked.
Length: 4 kilometers/ 2.5 miles
Convenient to: Vienne or Lyon, France
Marking:
Yellow rectangles indicating direction of travel
White panels, with a large black colored number, QR code and photo collage of Louis Gambert
Continue reading Sur les Pas de Gambert: Trail in a Nutshell
The sea, hiking and wines are three of my favorite things to experience. However, it is not always easy to find a place where waves meet the vines. It is rarer still to find well-marked and maintained trails in such spots. Serendipitiously though, it is possible to savor all three in Collioure.
A recent trip to the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France led to the town of Collioure, a little gem of a town. Set on a beautiful bay, it is famous for its narrow, atmospheric streets in the old town, leading to one of its old forts. It is also famous for its wines. The vineyards surrounding the town produce wines both for the AOC Collioure and for the Banyuls AOC. Finally, it has some delightful trails through the hills and vineyards for hikers and mountain-bike riders to enjoy.
