Hills and hidden dales, fields and dark forests, quiet vineyards and orchards, the Ortenau wine region is quite enchanting. Set in the foothills of the Rhine-side of the Black Forest in the state of Baden, it has a long history of wine making. When I recently came across a wine-themed bicycling circuit, the Weinsagen (Wine Myths), I had to try it.

The trail officially begins in Kappelrodeck, a small town with a large role in the regional wine industry. Look for (and at) the Hex (witch) vom (of)Dasenstein just in front of the eponymous wine cellar. It is a creative wooden sculpture, commemorating the legend of a daughter of a local lord who fell in love with a local boy. Her father told her to break it off, or leave home. She went off with the local boy, who soon abandoned her. Retreating to a cave, she became known as a witch. The wine cellar does a conjuring trick of its own, creating great wines from the grapes of this region. But I was cursed: the cellar was closed when I got there.

Once the trail enters Waldulm, the wine competition kicks up a notch, as Waldulm produces some great wines as well. Its wines seem to be consistently drier than Dasenstein wines, or the wines from the next area: Oberkirch. But it is not a time to sample: the trail heads straight up hill for a couple of kilometers.

While much of this 41-kilometer trail is on dedicated bike paths, this part isn’t. I would even suggest not biking it with children because of the narrowness of the road, and the curves which would hide little bikers from view; rather take an alternative path through vineyards from Waldulm’s Talstrasse to Ringelsbacher Kreuz.

The downhill side of this slope, steep and curvy until the village of Ringelbach, leads to Oberkirch. As one of the area’s largest towns, it is a good place to base as well, having lots of eateries, lodging options, parking and other biking and hiking opportunities. Once past the old town, the trail here follows along the banks of the Rench River for several car-free kilometers, affording an opportunity to enjoy the river sights and sounds, and admire the distant scenery. As in the much of this area, the valleys coming out of the mountains are laced with streams and rivulets, and the bike trails often follow them in part, making a very pleasant trip along a paved or hard-packed riverbank ride.

Part of the charm of this circuit is its progression from town to country and back. The municipalities, large and small, all have something on offer: Kappelrodeck and its schloss; Oberkirch and the canals thundering through the town; Renchen with its main street and cafes, ideal for people watching as you enjoy some Black Forest cake; downtown Achern, a bit off the trail, with its pedestrian zone and ancient and unusual Saint Nikolaus chapel; Sasbachwalden and its unique “wine barrel” (Weinfass) hotel set in a vineyard, and site of the “Alde Gott”myth.

Enjoying the countryside is just as easy: the quiet strength of the Rench River on its way to the Rhine; the orchards, seemingly endless outside Renchen, with a special magic in Spring as the white and pink blossoms shower down gently as you ride under the branches; the inviting Waldsee Pond, a great place to relax; and the variety of landscapes and vegetation throughout.

It is easy to be enchanted by this quiet area, so beautiful, so peaceful, and so blessed with wine! For anyone wanting a mildly challenging (but also suitable for E-bikes) bike-ride through Ortenau wine country, the Weinsagen circuit will become, if it is not already, one of the mythic trails in this beautiful region.