Green is supposedly a calming color, I recalled as I cycled along Franciacorta’s Percorso Verde (Green Route). There could be some truth in that: The amount of green on this route seems to have created the most relaxed, carefree people I have met in a long time – and I count myself among that group on that delightful day.

I first noticed it in the town of Paratico, on the hill overlooking Lake Iseo. As I was photographing the incredibly blue lake spreading out in the distance, several runners came uphill behind me. Male and female, of all ages and sizes, they were obviously enjoying themselves on a group “fun-run”, and wanted me to photograph them as well.

A dozen cheery farewell greetings later, I was on my way through the natural preserve of the Oglio River, through a beautiful little valley that then leads sharply uphill to the town of Capriolo. People sitting outside cafes, on a warm, late May morning, waved and smiled as well. The town has an easy-going feel to it. While the circuit led through the heart of the older areas, it was quiet and relaxed. The old houses crowd up against each other unevenly, creating interesting angles and chiaroscuro effects in the full sunlight. Passing through the old city walls near the top of the hill, I found myself in the countryside again. Before heading down the hill, I took time to admire the views of the great plain before me, a vista stretching south into the far distance toward Brescia and Bergamo.

 

 

A truly delightful surprise though, was to turn around at the bottom of the hill, and look back up at Capriolo. It was perched like a crown on top of a vine-covered hill, one of the southern-most dramatic outcroppings of the mountains surrounding Lake Iseo. This part of the trail also represented the end of big climbs, as it then followed along fairly level tree-lined paths past vineyards and wineries into Adro.

 

 

The town offers several opportunities to stop for a drink in cafes, before heading back into countryside. I was alone pedaling along quiet vineyards, and through another parkland, before arriving at an old walled cemetery. As is common in Italy, it was surrounded by cypress trees. It was a great place to relax on a shady bench, admire the mountain and lake views, and photograph iconic shots of Italy.

 

Nigoline, sitting below the cemetery, was clearly once the seat of a wealthy lord. Its wealth nowadays is expressed in its wine, and some of the more famous houses have their wineries and vineyards here. It is also at Nigoline where another route on this series, the Percorso Saten/Giallo (yellow), joins with the green route, on the section leading between the town of Clusane and this town.

 

 

Clusane is a lake-side town, and the official start (and end) of this circuit. The road connecting it and Paratico, further along the lake, can be busy, especially during summer holidays. But town officials wisely created a wide biking and pedestrian sidewalk on the lakeside of the road to connect the two towns. As a result, biking between them is a stress-free, and visually rewarding experience. They have also kept the historic old center of Clusane relatively car-free, so that biking and walking there is a pleasant experience. Several cafes lined the little port, each distinctive, but all oozing conviviality and the delicious sense of dolce far niente; and one had a seat with a view, just calling me.

 

Strong coffee, expressive wines, and classic, green scenery, all on one trail. Is it any wonder I love Italy?