Trail Name: Blauburgunder Panoramaweg
Trail Type: Long distance hiking trail; either paved or hard-packed gravel, well maintained.
Length: total: 12 km/7.5 miles
Convenient to: Schaffhausen, Switzerland
Continue reading Blauburgunder Panoramaweg: Trail in a Nutshell
Hiking Burgundy’s Cote de Nuits taught me to appreciate the important things in life; and in the Cote de Nuits, life does seem to revolve around wine. Certainly wine is not the most important thing in life here: rather producing the greatest quality wine becomes an all-consuming passion on the part of most families who make a living from these hugely famous but surprisingly small appellations and the wines they produce. And hiking through these vineyards gave me a chance to appreciate that.
The Cote de Nuits vineyards, some of the most famous in the world, begin just yards from trailhead in Chenove, with the Marsannay Village appellation. Shortly after, in the village of Fixey/Fixin, I came to the first Premier Cru vineyard: Les Arvelets. (Fixin is also does homage to another great: Napoleon. Fixin’s Noisot Museum, and associated park, were created by Claude Noisot, a former officer in the Imperial Army who actually accompanied Napoleon into exile at Elba.)
Continue reading Burgundy’s Cote de Nuits: Big Names, Small Vineyards
What I Learned:
By way of overall explanation, the term Cote D’Or (Golden Slope) has a couple of meanings: it refers to a department in France, and it refers to a geological phenomenon, a large limestone ridge, that gives its name to a wine region. The wine region is subdivided into two sections: the northern Cote de Nuits, and the southern Cote de Beaune. This post covers the northern, Cote de Nuits, section, which runs from approximately just south of Dijon to just south of Corgoloin in Burgundy.
Continue reading Wine Notes: Burgundy Cote D’Or – Cote de Nuits
Trail Name: Chemin des Grands Crus
Trail Type: Long distance hiking trail, wine-themed; with a widely varying trail surface from paved road to grass track, somewhat maintained, and signposted or marked at many intersections, but not all.
Length:
Convenient to: Dijon, Burgundy, France
Continue reading Trail of the Grands Crus: Trail in a Nutshell
To view a photo-journal of travels along the riverine wine-producing regions in Germany, please visit:
http://youtu.be/z93MBFyWm_4
Overcast, foggy and cool: a typical, late September day in Germany; but perfect for bike riding. Determined to bike along the Mittelrhein Wine Region this year, I could only hope for the happy coincidence of a break in the rain, and some free time. At least the rain held off, in spite of the leaden clouds overhead.
While I couldn’t pick the weather, I could pick the route. Having once taken a day cruise through the world heritage site of the Upper Middle Rhine, I decided to bike through the area for a closer look. It was a perfect choice as the Rhine Cycle Route stays on the left bank of the Rhine throughout this entire stretch. I narrowed it down even further. By starting at the edge of Boppard, near the vineyards, and ending in Bingen, I managed pass through or see two wine regions: the Mittelrhein, and the Rheingau on the opposite bank; and visit the best-known wine villages and river towns along the Upper Middle Rhine.
What I Learned:
Many areas of the Upper Middle Rhine do not produce wine: the geography just isn’t suitable or practicable, even for growing other crops, so steep are the slopes rising from the river’s edge; and that makes the vineyards along this section of the Rhine even more special and beloved.
Riesling dominates overwhelmingly here: over 70% of the plantings in this area are of Riesling vines. Its closest numerical competition comes from the approximately 9% of Spaetburgunder plantings. So these two varietals, one white, the other red, equal approximately 80% of all cultivated vines in this area. Muller-Thurgau, Kerner, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris make up about 11% of all remaining cultivated white varietals. Dornfelder and Portugieser make up the remaining red varietals.
Trail Name: Rheinradweg (German)/Rhine Cycle Route, also known as Eurovelo 15
Trail Type: Long distance cycling trail; This segment is completely paved, well maintained, and much of it follows a dedicated trail for bicycles. The specific route marking is not always easy to see, but bike signs to the next town/destination are abundant. (Otherwise, just go with (or against) the flow, literally.)
Length:
Total: over 1200 km/circa 760 miles
Segment: circa 45 km/ 30 miles
Convenient to: Bingen, Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany
Marking:
Continue reading Rhine Cycle Route – Upper Middle Rhine: Trail in a Nutshell
The resolve to bike along the Main River began with an earlier visit to the Veitshoechheim Palace and seeing the wide, asphalted bike path on the opposite shore in Margetshoechheim. The Main has always served as a commercial trading artery; barges, ferries, and even cruise ships nowadays, ply the waterway in an unending parade of river life. The Mainradweg trail offers bicyclists a fabulous opportunity to see all this activity, as well as some of Franconia’s most iconic vineyards and wine towns, on a leisurely ride along its gentle banks. It is easy to see why the 375-mile trail, which follows the river from east of Bayreuth to the Rhine at Wiesbaden, consistently wins awards in many categories: The route is well-marked, well-maintained, well-organized with bike-tourism services, and marvelously laid out – passing through idyllic countryside and picturesque villages and towns. It is extremely popular with German tourists, many of whom, judging from the overloaded panniers, complete several stages over a period of days.
