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Biking, France, Nutshell

Paysage a Bicyclette: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Paysage a Bicyclette

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit biking trail; much of it paved and car-free, well maintained, fairly good signage throughout (but at least bring a map, if nothing else).

Length:

Total: 31 kilometers/ 19.5 miles

Convenient to: Colmar, Alsace, France

Marking:

White pointy-ends rectangular sign with dark letters: Paysage a Bicyclette in script writing

Paysage a Bicyclette Trail Signage

Trail Description: A slightly challenging trail through vines and villages in a relatively quiet section of the Alsatian wine region, offering plenty of opportunities to reconnect with nature, admire the wide expanses, and taste wine while exploring small towns and villages along the route!

Trailhead:

Official: Rouffach: Mairie (Town Hall), on Place de la Republique

Alternative: Eguisheim: Grande Rue

Parking:

Eguisheim: Grande Rue, large paved lot, reasonable fees

Rouffach: Place des Sports, large paved lot, with overflow parking nearby, free

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: SNCF regional trains (TER), regularly connect Rouffach (station less than one kilometer from the trail) with Colmar and Strasbourg to the north, and Mulhouse to the south

Suggested Stages:

Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points:

Rouffach: R du Marechal Joffre/D18Bis-R Claude Ignace Callinet, R. Louis Pasteur-R. des Vosges-Route de Westhalten; Cross Muehlweg, onto track named Saegmattenweg; Gundolsheim: D15/Route de Rouffach-R. du Nord-Schlittweg-Gundolsheimerweg; onto Holderhuerstleweg, over train tracks, hard right but continue on trail, Rouffach: cross D8, Heiligkreuzweg-Staaweg; cross tracks, then parallel them on Gaertleweg; Metzgermatten and Kiffmatten fields; woods, cross D83 highway; Hattstatt: D121/Route du Vin; Alte Staatstrasse, Herrenstr trail, Rte de Herrlisheim/D1bis; Eguisheim: D14/Grande Rue, R. du Muscat-R du Vin, unnamed trail to left after R. du Buhl; Obermorschwihr: Dagsbourg Hohlweg, R du Dagsbourg-R des Pres; fields and vineyards; Gueberschwihr: R du Nord, R Basse-Route de Pfaffenheim; Gaensbrunnweg trail, then first right; Pfaffenheim: R du Muscat, Grande Rue-Drotfeldweg-Kopfacherweg; Alte Strasse through vineyards-R. Louis Pasteur

Representative Trail Photos:

Typical paved trail section
Typical Unpaved Trail Section

Restrooms:

Rouffach: R. du 4eme Spahis Marocains (by the bus stop)

Eguisheim: by the paid parking lot (see parking above), and in the old center in Cr Unterlinden

Attractions on or near Trail:

Eguisheim:

The Little Train will take passengers through vineyards as well as the town

The Wolfberger Cave has a discovery room with some explanations and photos, in addition to a large boutique for lots of its wine and wine-related products.

Tasting along the Trail:

Wineries, mostly family-owned, in every village – you will be spoiled for choice. Do not hesitate to visit one (or several) between roughly 9-1200, and 14-1800 on most days (some including Sunday mornings during tourism season)!

Alternative Options:

Hiking:

Eguisheim: Vignoble et Chateaux, a short but steep in places trail that passes through a great variety of scenery and terrain, with great views. See the Nutshell here.

Soultzmatt or Westhalten: https://www.visorando.com/randonnee-promenade-dans-le-vignoble-de-la-vallee-/ thru vineyards, listed as medium difficulty (hills, not much shade)

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.visit.alsace/en/253001422-tourist-office-pays-deguisheim-et-de-rouffach-office-from-rouffach/

Trail (segment) specific: https://www.cirkwi.com/fr/circuit/536654-le-paysage-a-bicyclette

Comments:

A fantastic area for wines, history, and hiking and biking in nature.

France, Hiking

Ramblings in Rabastens

 

Rabastens, and the Gaillac wine region that it forms a part of, is an unexpected delight. My first time in this southwestern wine region, one of France’s oldest, left me charmed. Toulouse is the regional hub, fascinating in its own right, as is nearby Albi. Rabastens, though, in spite of its proximity to both, retains its quiet rural quality. Not that the town wasn’t hopping on a very crowded market day last June!  Local fruit and veg, as well as bottles or cases of local wines, from in the Rive Droite district of the Gaillac wine region, were on offer direct from vintners. That, of course, is why  I was there.

The Old Vine Yet Lives

The trail I rambled (hike is an overly energetic word for this easy, short itinerary), began on the outskirts of town, at the local wine cooperative. Fortunately, given the crowds at the market, I found plenty of parking options on that end of town. Like the cooperative, this trail focused on vintners and their wines: Amedee, being a former vintner. Shortly after parking, I (and Marco, my hiking buddy for this trip), were passing along vines, enjoying the song of the birds and the buzz of cicadas, brought out by the heat.

Vines in the Gaillac Wine Region

Making a turn uphill, we followed a grassy trail devoid of vines on one side. Instead, splashes of color from myriad wild flowers, all in full bloom that day, popped out against the grasses. The variety of flowers and their abundance were amazing. Focused on photographing the flowers, (and Marco, a hunter, on wildlife tracks) we had little notice of much else. It wasn’t until near the top of the hill that we turned to admire the rest of the scenery.

Hot Pink on a Hot Day

There, to the south, were snow-capped Pyrenees! They didn’t photograph well, due to haze. Haze likely caused by the multitude of rivers that pass between the trail in Rabastens and the mountains. Rabastens lies along the Tarn, which with the Hers and Ariege flow into the Garonne not far to the west, making this area a real watershed. Additionally, it is easy to see why grapes do well here: gentle ridges rise and fall from here to the mountains, and the south-facing slopes are great for vine-planting.

Snow-capped Mountains in Haze

Once on top, the trail turned almost 180 degrees, and headed downhill, through a little draw created by a break in the ridgeline. A stable, then finally an old farm house appeared. After a few more meters, a dovecote appeared. These famed dovecotes, some hundreds of years old and lovingly maintained, show an amazing breadth of style and architecture! Centuries ago, vintners used pigeon droppings to ameliorate the soil around the vines. We walked under a canopy of trees, enjoying the architecture and a respite from sun. In no time, we’d returned to the cooperative for a wine-tasting, and Rabastens, for a well-earned lunch!

 

 

France, Wines

Wine Notes: Gaillac

 

What I Learned

The Gaillac tradition of wine-making is one of the oldest in France. But well before that, there is documented evidence of the local population drinking wine imported from Greece, and even Asia Minor. Suffice it to say, wine produced here today has a lot of savoir-faire, or know-how, behind it !

The Appellation Gaillac territory lies east of Toulouse, and is subject to both Atlantic and Mediterranean climatic influences. Situated in the rolling hills between the Aveyron River, and both banks of the Tarn River, this fertile area has ideal conditions for vineyards. There are three main growth areas

-The Rive Gauche, known also as the Terrasses de la Rive Gauche, which indicates a generally flatter area

-The Rive Droite (around Gaillac, Lisle sur Tarn and Rabastens), known also, and appropriately so, as Coteaux de la Rive Droite, indicating an area of hills, where vines grow on the south-facing slopes

-The Plateau Cordais, north of the Rive Droit, in an area of higher elevation, which includes the impressive town of Cordes sur Ciel

The dry white wines received appellation status in 1938. Gaillac white wines include some unique varietals such as Loin de l’œil. It is rather perfumed, and is often blended with another unusual varietal Mauzac. Ondenc is yet another appellation varietal, and unusually, it is often harvested and bottled as a later harvest wine.

The red wines, however, only obtained appellation status in 1970.  The main red varietal is Braucol, with notes of raspberry and cassis. Duras and Prunelart, both of which were practically extinct by the end of the phylloxera crisis, are usually blended with Braucol, or the another main red varietal in this area, Syrah.

 

What I Tasted

2021 Loin de l’Oeil, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Vinovalie (Saint Sulpice): A dry white wine with very pale, almost white gold color, with a citrus and tropical fruits nose, and citrus and mineral flavors; fairly well-balanced with medium plus acidity

2021 Le Perle, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Vinovalie: A dry white cuvee with pale, white gold color; a peach and mineral nose; flavors of green apple, peach, and pineapple; a slight fizz, with mild acidity.

2021 Le Perle, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Vinovalie: A dry rose cuvee with pale rose color; red berry nose and flavors, with hints of spice

2020  Loin de l’Oeil, Sans Culotte, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Vinovalie (Saint Sulpice): A dry white wine with very pale, almost white gold color; floral nose, with floral and white stone fruits flavors, well balanced with medium acidity, and no sulfites added!

2021 Cuvee, AOP Gaillac, Domaine Les Grezels (Gaillac); A dry white wine cuvee (Muscadelle (20%), Loin de l’œil (40%), and  Mauzac (40%)), with pale gold color; citrus nose, with flavors of citrus, and ripe pear; very mild acidity.

2021 Rose cuvee, Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC) Gaillac, Chateau de Saurs (Lisle s/Tarn):  A dry, salmon pink cuvee of Duras and Syrah, red berry fruits, medium acidity and medium length finish.

2021 Les Cedres, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Chateau Tauzies, (bottled by Vinovalie): A dry rose cuvee with pale rose color; bright red berries nose, slightly herbal notes, with flavors of the same.

France, Hiking, Nutshell

Les Pas d’Amédée le Vigneron: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Dans les Pas d’Amédée le Vigneron

Trail Type: Short-distance circuit; well-maintained with hard (paved or packed earth) surfaces; marking for this itinerary is pretty good, but not always present.

Length:

Total – 7 kilometers/4.3 miles

Convenient to: Toulouse, Albi, Montauban, or Gaillac, Occitanie, France

Marking:

Signs specific to the trail (see above and below), as well as the ubiquitous French yellow bar markings

Marking for the Trail

 

Trail Description: This mostly gentle walk through vineyards and fields in and around Rabastens, a town  in the Gaillac wine region, provided lovely views, and several opportunities to sample the wines.

Trailhead:

Official: Rabastens, Vinovalle, Ave de l’Hermitage

Mine : Rabastens, Rue de la Croix Blanche (where the tail leading to the circuit begins)

Parking:

Rabastens: on the shoulder along Avenue de l’Hermitage, and along wider sections of the Chemin de l’Hermitage,

Rabastens: near the school – Ave de la Croix Blanche, (usually full, but empty during school vacations)

Rabastens:  Rue des Abreuvoirs, a large central official parking lot, mostly closed during market days, and a kilometer from the trail

Public Transportation Options:

SNCF, the national train system, has a station in Rabastens connecting it with Toulouse and beyond

Suggested Stages:

Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Rabastens: Cave, Ave de l’Hermitage, Chemin de l’Hermitage, R. des Ormes, R. des Clarisses, cross Rte de Saurs right to Chemin de la Tremege (Alternatively id’d: Ave de la Croix Blanche), path (La Dressiere) behind school back onto Chemin de la Tremege ; left onto path (250 m before the “t” insection) through vines, onto Las Bordes, stay right at y (350m past plant); sharp turn south/left, Fourtet: almost to Rte 2/Rte de Salvagnac, but just before it, turn left onto narrow Tremege Basse/Cote de la Tremege (by dumpsters); at school, retrace steps to Cave.

Representative Trail Photos:

Sample Section of Trail
Representative Trail Surface

Restrooms:

None observed

Attractions on or near Trail:

(See below)

Tasting along the Trail:

Vinovalle/Vignerons de Rabastens, a local cooperative

Domaine in Ventis, Les Fontaines de Cavalade, both are just off the trail and sell directly at local markets

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Vignes et Clochers, an eight kilometer long circuit trail, starting north of the center of Lisle-sur-Tarn (about five miles northeast of Rabastens), on D18/Camin de Tolze, Alternatively, Lisle-sur-Tarn also has the 11 kilometer Le Vignoble Lislois circuit trail, beginning right on the northern outskirts of the old town

Car: Circuit du Vignoble Gaillacois, Route des Vins de Gaillac, ask local travel offices for help mapping your route

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.la-toscane-occitane.com/

Trail specific:  https://www.france-randos.com/randonnee/rabastens/tarn-81/dans-les-pas-damedee-le-vigneron

Comments:

A very easy walk in a quiet corner of rural France, albeit only 30 kilometers from Toulouse!

 

Europe

Heights Above the Heimbach

 

 

The name of the trail, the Fuerstenbergblick, in this instance, is a subtle reference to who owned the vineyards on the hills overlooking the Rhine. Not only did the trail lead through the refined vineyards of the Middle Rhine, but it also included views of several castles that the Fuersten, or princes, owned on this lucrative section of the Rhine.

This hike had a lot going for it, beginning with its location. It is about in the center of the UNESCO world-heritage site. Bacharach, and its famous wines, lie just to the north of Niederheimbach, and the well-known wine village of Lorch, with its highly acclaimed wines, faces it from across the river. (It is connected to it by a convenient ferry, making travel between the left and right banks quite convenient.)

The Heimbach in Niederheimbach

I began in town, and headed inland, up a narrow valley. Soon afterwards, the trail did a 180 degree turn, and I was facing the river, and the delightfully intimate (in size) Hohneck Castle, perched on a riverside promontory on the other side of the little valley.

Burg Hohneck, Niederheimbach

Heading toward the river, but this time on the heights above the little village, I had plenty of opportunity to study the vineyards of Lorch, across the river. I had hiked these vineyards on the magnificent long distance trail, the Riesling Pfad. (See the Nutshell here.) This time, I could see where I had been, and pat myself on the back for the multiple ascents and descents, some rather steep, I made back then.

Lorch and Castle Nollig

This trail, while neither as long (it is quite short in fact), nor as technically varying or challenging, was a pleasant hike for an afternoon in a quiet, beautiful section of the Middle Rhine. As it continued fairly high above the Rhine, it was easy to enjoy the expansive views while walking along a mostly flat plateau. Views extended downriver to Bacharach, over to Burg Nollig above Lorch, and up river. Photographers and castle-lovers are truly spoiled for choice here!

Downriver to Bacharach

The short descent into and across the Gailsbach valley, was followed by a quick ascent up to the ruined Fuerstenberg Castle. Another castle ruin overlooking the Rhine. You would think I would get tired of them. Crooked ivy-covered walls, where small lizards hide when frightened from their sunny perches, dilapidated masonry, and door lintels to nowhere, pretty much sums up many a ruin. But I never miss an opportunity to explore them.

Castle Fuerstenberg and its Vineyards

The trail soon turned south to return to Niederheimbach, to complete the circuit. At this point, there is the opportunity to walk along the edge of the Rhine. The trail, which also serves as a bike trail here (so be mindful), was a quiet, flat, nicely tarmacked section, well away from the road. Walking to the sound of lapping water, I soon came to a waterside café-bar, just before the village of Niederheimbach. Miracle of miracles, it was actually open on this non-season afternoon. I stopped, naturally. As I sipped a glass of local wine, and enjoyed the water views, I realized there is no better way to enjoy the Rhine and its wines than hiking along it!

Bar Cafe Along the Rhine
Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Mittelrhein Reichenstein

 

What I Learned

The Mittelrhein (Middle Rhine) is famous for its castle ruins, towering cliffs, and dramatic oxbow bends along the river through this section of it. The Upper Middle Rhine is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. It begins in Koblenz, and continues to Bingen.

This also defines the wine region known as the Mittelrhein. Unlike other wine regions on the Rhine, this region covers both banks of the river (beginning north of Lorchhausen, which joins the Rheingau region). Many areas of the Upper Middle Rhine do not produce wine: the topography and geology just aren’t suitable or practicable, even for growing other crops. That just makes the vineyards along this section of the Rhine even more esteemed.

On the left bank, dark slate begins to predominate in the soil around Boppard, and continues upriver until just outside Trechtingshausen. This hard rock shapes the river as well, and its many twists and turns provide optimal sun exposure for some slopes, like the famous vineyard of Bopparder Hamm, while depriving others of much sun at all just around the next bend.

Because of the different geological conditions, the Mittelrhein region is divided into different “Grosslage,” or growing areas, each containing some specifically named vineyards. This hike covered the area around mostly Oberheimbach, which falls with the Grosslage of Schloss Reichenstein, the name of a brooding castle ruin located about three miles upriver in Trechtingshausen. Well-known Nieder/Ober -heimbach vineyards include Niederheimbacher Froher Weingarten, Oberheimbacher Sonne, Oberheimbacher Klosterberg, and my personal favorite: the Oberheimbacher Wahrheit (it means “Truth”), which says all you need to know about the true expression of the terroir in the wines from here.

 

What I Tasted

2017 Riesling Weinberg Schloesschen, Spaetlese, Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Weingut Juergen Stassen (Oberheimbach): A dry white wine with medium gold color, a mineral and slightly fruity nose, with green gooseberry and mineral flavors; medium plus acidity with a tart finish.

2015 Riesling, Classic, Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Weingut Eisenbach-Korn (Oberheimbach): A dry white wine with medium plus gold color, a spicy, nose with hints of turpentine and lipstick; with spicy and fruity flavors, medium acidity with a smooth, but tart finish; very well balanced overall.

2013 Weisser Riesling, Niederheimbacher Froher Weingarten, Qualitaetswein, trocken, Fendel: A dry white wine with a medium gold color: a well-balanced, slightly floral and fruity tasting wine with a pleasant minerality to it.

 

Germany, Hiking

Fuerstenbergblick: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Nr 22 – Fuerstenbergblick

Trail Type: Short distance circuit trail; well-maintained and mostly paved or hard-packed earthen trail, marking on the trail is mostly good, but not always exclusively specific to this trail as other trails follow along it as well.

Length:

Total – 7 kilometers/4.3 miles

Convenient to: Bingen, or Koblenz, Germany

Marking: Nr 22, or follow signs to next itinerary point

Trail Description: This is an easy trail through a little visited area of the famous Middle Rhine. It passes through a couple of wooded areas, but mostly vineyards, with clear views of the vineyards and castles on the opposite (and more visited) side of the Rhine, and a lovely riverside walk to close the circuit.

Trailhead:

Niederheimbach, Rheinstrasse riverside walking path

Parking:

Niederheimbach: A few street-side places where parking is not prohibited along the Rheinstrasse or Heimbachtal streets

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: Very frequent train service (DeutscheBahn (DB) regional train RB26) connects Niederheimbach with Mainz to the south, or Cologne to the north with stops all along the Mittel Rhein including Bingen, Boppard, St Goar, Koblenz, amongst others.

Bus: See the Rhein-Naehe Nahverkehrsverbund (RNN) website for details of bus travel through this area

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Clockwise)

Niederheimbach: Heimbachtal, then turn up to Rheinblick, vineyards, lookout point “Tempelchen”, woods, Rheindiebach: Cross Rheingoldstrasse/K27, vineyards, to and past Burg Fuerstenberg ruins, pass above the cemetery, Rheingoldstr, Mainzerstr, pass under B9 and train tracks, continue on the waterside path back to Niederheimbach

Representative Trail Photos:

Sample Trail Section Through Woods

 

Grassy Trail Surfaces in Places

 

Stairs to the Castle

Restrooms:

Rheindiebach: along the river, just north of the pedestrian underpass

Attractions on or near Trail:

Just lots of iconic Rhine River scenery!

Tasting along the Trail:

Niederheimbach and Oberheimbach both have guesthouses and restaurants that serve local wines. Niederheimbach even has one right along the river!

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Reblausweg (Nr 13) / Route 1 Panoramaweg, an 8 kilometer circuit trail beginning/ending at Niederheimbach. See the Nutshell here.

Biking: Rheinradweg, is a multi-day tour following the Rhine, but an easy day trip, with lots of stops for photos, is from Koblenz to Bingen am Rhein, or vice versus. It passes through Niederheimbach, which is one of the trains stops along the river route. See the Nutshell here.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.romantischer-rhein.de/ and https://niederheimbach.welterbe-mittelrheintal.de/

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/wanderung/romantischer-rhein/nhb-nr.-22-fuerstenbergblick-rundwanderweg/116090787/  or https://www.niederheimbach.info/media/files/nhb-wanderweg_022_k-2022-07.pdf

Comments:

Short, easy, but lovely.