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Wine Notes: Baden’s Tauberfranken

 

What I Learned  

A bit of the Baden wine region lies far north, with some of it in the German State of Bavaria! Baden’s Grosslage Tauberklinge extends north from around Assamstadt to the area around Homburg am Main. Much of this district lies along or quite near to the Tauber River. Other sectors lie in small valleys of minor Main River tributaries, or of tributaries to the Tauber River.

The Taubertal (Tauber (River) Valley) is a very diverse wine growing area. Following along the course of the river, upstream (south) to downstream (north), you find 3 regions (Franconia, Baden and Wuerttemberg) and 4 districts represented: Franconia’s Mainviereck District, Baden’s Tauberfranken District, Wuerttemberg’s Kocher-Jagst-Tauber District, and Franconia’s Maindreieck District. All this within about 120 miles of a fairly narrow river valley! The frequent district changes reflect the diverse soils and growing conditions in each region. Of course, these differences result in a variety of unique wines produced along the Tauber.

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Tauberschwarzweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Tauberschwarzweg

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit trail; well-maintained and about half is paved, the other surfaces are grass and earthen; marking on the trail is somewhat good, but a map is strongly advised.

Length: circa13 kilometers/8 miles (See comments below)

Convenient to: Wertheim, or Wuerzburg, Germany

Marking: The capital letter “D”

Trail Signage: D for Tauberschwarzweg

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Warm Winter Wandering

 

Winter, Spring, Summer, Fall, a trail’s face changes with the seasons. While this is undoubtedly true for the Ihringer Winzerrunde West trail, even as I hiked it in early February, it seemed more a trail of the Spring, and for good reason: the Kaiserstuhl is consistently one of the warmest, if not the warmest area in Germany.

To be honest, I was not looking forward to seeing the trail’s winter face for a couple of reasons. First, the Ihringer Winzerrunde West trail has several inclines, as it passes through vineyards, which in addition to being sited on elevations formed by ancient lava flows,  also has an extensive system of terraces throughout the area.

Precision-Cut Terraces

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Wine Notes: Baden’s Kaiserstuhl

 

What I Learned

The Kaiserstuhl is a wine district within the German wine region of Baden. Baden has a large number of wine districts, and with almost 4300 hectares (over 10,500 acres), it is the largest of all nine wine districts in Baden.

This district is one of the warmest sites in Germany, with some of the highest average temperatures and the highest average hours of sunshine per year. In this district, the vines are planted mostly in terraces, mostly on south facing slopes of the Kaiserstuhl, maximizing exposure to the sun in this already sun-drenched (relatively speaking) district. Another interesting aspect of this district is its base. It is volcanic, as this whole area was once one giant volcano. A layer of loess lies on top of the remnants of the old volcanic lava, which seems to retain heat to an amazing degree. The cuts in the terraces reveal incredible depths of the light-colored loess layer.

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Winzerrundweg West: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Winzerrundweg West

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; well maintained and almost exclusively paved, marking on the trail good, but not foolproof

Length: 9 kilometers / 5.6 miles

Convenient to: Breisach or Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany

Marking: Red rectangular signs with the trail name in white letters (See the featured photo above)

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Discovering Givry

 

If, as King Henry IV famously stated, “Paris is worth a Mass”, then he also likely said: Givry is worth a glass. It was his favorite wine. As I hiked along the trail that meandered past its clos and vineyards, and strolled along its streets, I had reason to see why.

The stroll through town showcases some of its beautiful old buildings. Erected during different eras, they are all made of the amazing limestone that is so typical of many Burgundian buildings. Once out of town and in the vineyards, clos walls are made of the same material, albeit in January covered by moss and lichen in a colorful winter coat.

Givry: Old Building

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Wine Notes: Givry

 

What I Learned

The town and township of Givry, surrounded by vineyards, lies in the sub-region of Burgundy known as Cote Chalonnaise. In this area, which also includes neighboring Dracy-le-Fort and Jambles, different appellations are in effect. From lower to higher on the quality scale they are the appellation of Bourgogne, the appellation of Cote Chalonnaise, and the appellation for the Givry. In addition to the Givry village appellation, there are similar village appellations for nearby Mercurey, Rully, and Montagny-les Buxy. While some experts opine that Mercurey consistently produces the highest quality wines of these four villages, Givry runs a close second. Both produce mostly red wines from Pinot Noir grapes. Montagny-les-Buxy produces exclusively white wines from Chardonnay grapes. Givry produces only about ten percent white wine, but these wines can sometimes provide discerning tasters an unusual licorice note.

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Cote Chalonnaise: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Decouverte Nature de la Cote Chalonnaise (to give it the full name)

Trail Type: mid-distance circuit trail; fairly well-maintained and very diverse trail surfaces, marking on the trail overall fairly good in some places, but missing in others

Length:

Total – 10 kilometers/6.2 miles

Convenient to: Chalon-sur-Saone, France

Marking: Varies, (G2, G3, and in one section red and white bars) but key spots are identified by location posts, and any or all of the above markings.

Cortiambles: Trail Sign on Location Post

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