Local cuisine develops best from local produce. Local wine best complements local cuisine. In this part of southern France, lying in the leeward side of the Pyrenees Mountains, the warm, sunny and dry climate is such that herbs grow wild, and grapes grow well. Both are flavorful and intense. Taking advantage of the natural conditions, the local tourism office developed a short, educational, circuit trail focusing mostly on the local vegetation, set in patches between the vines, through and around the village of Cucugnan.
When I saw this trail, I decided to walk it. Not at all a hike, this is a meander literally around the village of Cucugnan. Its location is dramatic. The approach to the village is through stark country side, white limestone peaks and surfaces relieved only by the green grapevines, and the patches of scrubland vegetation. It is an ecoregion known as the Garrigue, which predominates here in the southern part of Languedoc-Rousillon. Cucugnan it sits atop a rocky hillock, which looks impressive from afar – until you see the Castle of Queribus dominating the mountain peak above the little hillock.
In other words, the scenery here was spectacular, and afforded a silhouetted view of the village, with its famous windmill, from below the hillock, as well the impressive castle ruins.
But not only that. Known as the Sentier de la Fontaine, this family-friendly, easy trail is sub-titled the Trail of the Scents. As I ambled along, rubbing against wild herb bushes of rosemary, thyme and lavender, to mention just a few, a dozen scents pervaded the air. It conjured up thoughts for dinner: Poulet au Romarin au Four (Oven Roasted Rosemary Chicken), Porc au Miel et au Thym (Pork with Honey and Thym)? Then of course, there was the wine to consider, especially as the trail led through and along the local vineyards. In this appellation, red wines predominate. But being rather warm in this region for several months a year, there are plentiful rose wine offerings.
The trail went along a narrow creek, past an old settlement and its cottage gardens, and within half an hour, I was at the far end of the trail, at the fountain, for which the trail is named. Coming into view on the way back toward the village, a large slope of vineyards lay to the left/south, rising up part of the way to one of the major attractions of this area: The Castle of Queribus. Known as one of the last hold-outs of the Cathars, the stark reality of politics here confronted an equally stark landscape.
As the trail rose up the hillock, and meandered through Cucugnan’s narrow lanes, several cafes, taverns and restaurants came into view. My view now changed from broad and wide, to narrow and focused as I searched the menus and wine lists looking for that perfect combination of local foods and wines.
